[Amc-list] re mpg on a 64 wagon
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[Amc-list] re mpg on a 64 wagon
- From: Ian Murtaugh <ian.murt@xxxxxxxxxxx>
- Date: Sun, 27 Jul 2008 17:31:17 -0400
Tom, been away for a couple of days, but to answer your question.... we cruised at a steady 50 or so maybe even a bit less on some stretches. In our little parade we had a 57 Willys wagon, and a 58 impala with tri power. the willys was the pace setter.
Ian
> From: amc-list-request@xxxxxxxxxxxx
> Subject: Amc-list Digest, Vol 19, Issue 58
> To: amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx
> Date: Wed, 23 Jul 2008 18:25:58 -0700
>
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> Today's Topics:
>
> 1. Re: Off with his head! - It's at the machine shop!!!!
> (Bruce Griffis)
> 2. mpg on 64 Rambler (Ian Murtaugh)
> 3. Re: Off with his head! - It's at the machine shop!!!!
> (Tom Jennings)
> 4. Re: mpg on 64 Rambler (Tom Jennings)
> 5. Re: Off with his head! - It's at the machine shop!!!!
> (Bruce Griffis)
> 6. Re: seat belt install (Chris Peters)
> 7. Re: seat belt install (Keith Evenson)
> 8. Re: Hemmings short article on the '61 Custom Six (Frank Swygert)
> 9. Re: Fusible Link wire gage size (Frank Swygert)
> 10. Re: Hemmings short article on the '61 Custom Six (Sandwich Maker)
> 11. Re: A Metro Question (Frank Swygert)
> 12. Re: Need Cam Specs for High compression 290/343/360
> (Frank Swygert)
> 13. Re: Need Cam Specs for High compression 290/343/360 (David Crooks)
> 14. Re: Fusible Link wire gage size (Wrambler242@xxxxxxxxxxx)
> 15. Re: Fusible Link wire gage size (Tom Jennings)
> 16. Hemmings short article on the '61 Custom Six (d stohler)
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Message: 1
> Date: Wed, 23 Jul 2008 15:38:45 -0400
> From: "Bruce Griffis" <bruce.griffis@xxxxxxxxx>
> Subject: Re: [Amc-list] Off with his head! - It's at the machine
> shop!!!!
> To: "AMC/Rambler owners, drivers and fans." <amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
> Message-ID:
> <a72582d20807231238u6a5af300w2d723d33e0da5ae7@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8
>
> Hooray! The head is off and at the machine shop! The one stud that
> didn't want to come out was up high enough it was just in the head,
> not in the block. Tommy Goza (Goza machine shop) got it out with an
> air tool. Just carbon buildup was keeping it stuck. The heater control
> valve and assembly came right off - I just didn't "convince" it
> enough. I left the broken exhaust manifold stud in, the shop will pull
> it.
>
> So - at first look the machine shop owner said it didn't appear to
> have anything wrong with it at all. Looked in great shape, and
> whatever white smoke I was seeing was probably from a blown head
> gasket. My fingers are crossed.
>
> At first glance the cylinders looked nice - I need to take out the
> calipers to measure and take a much closer look. I did mess up in
> taking off the head and did not lift it directly up - I slid it just a
> bit - and now have junk in the cylinders. So - to clean 'em out - use
> a shop vac? Beg and borrow a compressor and airgun? What's the best
> way to make sure you have absolutely no junk in the cylinders?
>
> Since the block is pretty bare, I think I'll order some engine paint,
> degrease it and touch it up. Hopefully I won't have it this bare
> again! (And it's a pretty good time to rebuild that carb, too. The
> carb is on a plastic bag with my other stuff, rebuild kit is next to
> it - and a bucket of carb cleaner just so happens to be nearby. Funny
> how it worked out that way!)
>
> Also - since I'm seeing carbon buildup on the studs, I'm guessing I
> need to clean out the holes they go in. Should I run a tap through
> them? Would a tap clean out the junk, or should I use something else?
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 2
> Date: Wed, 23 Jul 2008 15:51:46 -0400
> From: Ian Murtaugh <ian.murt@xxxxxxxxxxx>
> Subject: [Amc-list] mpg on 64 Rambler
> To: <amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
> Message-ID: <BAY129-W244911D2776ABB8CA0961599840@xxxxxxx>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
>
>
> Follow up to Frank & Tom on my mileage. Got 21 MPG in my 64 American 220 wagon on the way up to the Hemmings weekend in Vermont. All of the suggestions you made had been done, what I needed was a real sustained long drive. We went up NY #22 and the round trip was in excess of 400 miles, the little wagon performed quite nicely! My only glitch was a broken throttle cable which was repaired with a bicycle brake or shifter cable.Thanks also for your advice about the overdrive, I may attempt that anyway.
>
> Ian
> _________________________________________________________________
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>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 3
> Date: Wed, 23 Jul 2008 13:12:29 -0700
> From: Tom Jennings <tomj@xxxxxxx>
> Subject: Re: [Amc-list] Off with his head! - It's at the machine
> shop!!!!
> To: "AMC/Rambler owners, drivers and fans." <amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
> Message-ID: <488790AD.3020006@xxxxxxx>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
>
> Bruce Griffis wrote:
>
> > I did mess up in
> > taking off the head and did not lift it directly up - I slid it just a
> > bit - and now have junk in the cylinders. So - to clean 'em out - use
> > a shop vac? Beg and borrow a compressor and airgun? What's the best
> > way to make sure you have absolutely no junk in the cylinders?
>
> Eh. Though Smokey Yunick said 'no engine ever died from being too clean'
> I wouldn't freak out if the junk that fell in is largely combustion
> byproducts. Metal and sand, OK worry more. A bit of carbon isn't that
> abrasive and will get pumped out.
>
> Compressed air may drive it in. Shop vac with a small hose will get 99%
> of it out.
>
> > Also - since I'm seeing carbon buildup on the studs, I'm guessing I
> > need to clean out the holes they go in. Should I run a tap through
> > them? Would a tap clean out the junk, or should I use something else?
>
> I run a tap through all holes always, and often a die down bolts and
> studs, then use the right lube or a high-temp anti-seize. It never
> hurts, and usually helps. Crud will prevent torque wrenches from working
> right, readings will be all off. Maintenance is easier. All my exhaust
> nuts and studs just come out and never break. (I use relatively
> expensive nickel antiseize on everything, Permatex?, an 8oz jar has
> lasted a few years now.
>
>
> When I built my 232 I actually made a little clean room from plastic
> sheet. Washed the parts in soap and water, washed my hands, clean
> clothes, clean tools, clean oil, assembled the bottom end all in one
> shot and got it sealed up. Changed the synth oil religiously and 20
> years later, still 15 - 20 psi oil pressure at idle and zero cylinder
> scoring.
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 4
> Date: Wed, 23 Jul 2008 13:13:42 -0700
> From: Tom Jennings <tomj@xxxxxxx>
> Subject: Re: [Amc-list] mpg on 64 Rambler
> To: "AMC/Rambler owners, drivers and fans." <amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
> Message-ID: <488790F6.4080302@xxxxxxx>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
>
> Ian Murtaugh wrote:
> > Follow up to Frank & Tom on my mileage. Got 21 MPG in my 64 American 220 wagon on the way up to the Hemmings weekend in Vermont. All of the suggestions you made had been done, what I needed was a real sustained long drive. We went up NY #22 and the round trip was in excess of 400 miles, the little wagon performed quite nicely! My only glitch was a broken throttle cable which was repaired with a bicycle brake or shifter cable.Thanks also for your advice about the overdrive, I may attempt that anyway.
>
>
> Cool! There's nothing like a long drive to shake out bugs, get familiar
> with the thing and enjoy it! 21mpg in a waggin' ain't bad!
>
> So that's a 3 speed without OD? How fast did you cruise?
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 5
> Date: Wed, 23 Jul 2008 17:13:11 -0400
> From: "Bruce Griffis" <bruce.griffis@xxxxxxxxx>
> Subject: Re: [Amc-list] Off with his head! - It's at the machine
> shop!!!!
> To: "AMC/Rambler owners, drivers and fans." <amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
> Message-ID:
> <a72582d20807231413r5c992f3du75738b1ad158e8c4@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8
>
> On Wed, Jul 23, 2008 at 4:12 PM, Tom Jennings <tomj@xxxxxxx> wrote:
> > Compressed air may drive it in. Shop vac with a small hose will get 99%
> > of it out.
> >
>
> Cool. Will attack it carefully with a vac!
>
>
> >
> > I run a tap through all holes always, and often a die down bolts and
> > studs, then use the right lube or a high-temp anti-seize.
>
>
> Gives me an excuse to get some nice new taps for the tap wrench I made
> in highschool. It's been sitting in my toolbox forever just waiting
> for an excuse to use it. Nothing's cooler than a lathe, tool bits,
> some cold rolled steel and a knurling tool.
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 6
> Date: Wed, 23 Jul 2008 17:31:10 -0400
> From: "Chris Peters" <cpeters1@xxxxxxxxxx>
> Subject: Re: [Amc-list] seat belt install
> To: <amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
> Message-ID: <001201c8ed0b$6d325f20$6400a8c0@HPLaptop>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>
> I told ya it would be hard to describe. I just did it the other day, and we
> have he same setup, so
>
> It is easier to see if you took the belts out yourself. See if you can it
> all in place before you install it. Then, clamp the bolt in a vise with the
> rubber cover facing up and the belt coming towards you. Then, fold the belt
> back away from you, so it folds over the cover, and over the bolt head.
> Now, you should see a loop of belt material, grab the belt and pull out a
> loop 3-4 inches. Pull the cover some, and now you should be able to get to
> the bolt head with a dogbone wrench. Bolt in place, pull the loop back out,
> and fold it back into place. The folding the key here.
>
> If that still does not work, I'll take some pics for you. Email me direct
> if you like. cpeters1@xxxxxxxxxx
>
> -----Original Message-----
>
> Date: Tue, 22 Jul 2008 16:47:58 -0500
> From: Keith Evenson <epd@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
> Subject: Re: [Amc-list] seat belt install
> To: "AMC/Rambler owners, drivers and fans." <amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
> Message-ID: <FB242AFD-CBB3-49F4-B98A-08339DAA9C36@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>
> That is what I thought but the bolt on mine goes thru a loop on the
> back side of the seatbelt loop. So the cover loop has to be in place
> when you put the bolt in the hole.
>
> Keith
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 7
> Date: Wed, 23 Jul 2008 16:40:39 -0500
> From: Keith Evenson <epd@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
> Subject: Re: [Amc-list] seat belt install
> To: "AMC/Rambler owners, drivers and fans." <amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
> Message-ID: <3DFC6C85-36F6-4358-99A9-B9273D222E4B@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>
> Chris, thanks I gave it the old college try last night and followed
> what I thought you were saying and got it in. Thanks for the help.
>
> Keith Evenson
>
>
>
>
> On Jul 23, 2008, at 4:31 PM, Chris Peters wrote:
>
> > I told ya it would be hard to describe. I just did it the other
> > day, and we
> > have he same setup, so
> >
> > It is easier to see if you took the belts out yourself. See if you
> > can it
> > all in place before you install it. Then, clamp the bolt in a vise
> > with the
> > rubber cover facing up and the belt coming towards you. Then, fold
> > the belt
> > back away from you, so it folds over the cover, and over the bolt
> > head.
> > Now, you should see a loop of belt material, grab the belt and pull
> > out a
> > loop 3-4 inches. Pull the cover some, and now you should be able
> > to get to
> > the bolt head with a dogbone wrench. Bolt in place, pull the loop
> > back out,
> > and fold it back into place. The folding the key here.
> >
> > If that still does not work, I'll take some pics for you. Email me
> > direct
> > if you like. cpeters1@xxxxxxxxxx
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> >
> > Date: Tue, 22 Jul 2008 16:47:58 -0500
> > From: Keith Evenson <epd@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
> > Subject: Re: [Amc-list] seat belt install
> > To: "AMC/Rambler owners, drivers and fans." <amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
> > Message-ID: <FB242AFD-CBB3-49F4-B98A-08339DAA9C36@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
> >
> > That is what I thought but the bolt on mine goes thru a loop on the
> > back side of the seatbelt loop. So the cover loop has to be in place
> > when you put the bolt in the hole.
> >
> > Keith
> >
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > Amc-list mailing list
> > Amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx
> > http://splatter.wps.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/amc-list
> >
>
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>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 8
> Date: Wed, 23 Jul 2008 17:51:34 -0400
> From: Frank Swygert <farna@xxxxxxx>
> Subject: Re: [Amc-list] Hemmings short article on the '61 Custom Six
> To: amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx
> Message-ID: <4887A7E6.1010700@xxxxxxx>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
>
> The only "problem" with the 56-62 Rambler/Classic Six is the six. The 196 is adequate power for an American, and IMHO isn't really enough for the bigger car. It's geared a little lower and has a couple more hp due to a different carb, but it's just not enough for modern traffic. Unfortunately the V-8s aren't that economical, even the little 250 used from 57-61. I suppose they are reasonably economical, but only when compared to other V-8s of the era. The 327 gets in the mid teens, the 250 in the high teens (maybe low 20s with OD and careful driving). The six can get in the mid 20s IF you don't mind traveling at 45-50 mph. At highway speeds you're looking at high teens, maybe low 20s if you keep it around 60. Those cars fared well in the old economy runs, but average speeds were in the 40-45 range for cross country trips.
>
> Luckily the bigger, later six will fit (up to a 4.0L), but you have to fab engine mounts and swap transmissions too, which also means the torque tube and rear axle has to be swapped out. So it's a lot of work.
>
> I like the older Ramblers too, but you have to know the limitations of the original drivetrain and/or the amount of work needed to update them. Not for the faint of heart!
>
> ----------------
> Date: Wed, 23 Jul 2008 10:06:05 -0400
> From: "Bruce Griffis" <bruce.griffis@xxxxxxxxx>
>
> But I picked the magazine up for the short blurb on the '61 Rambler
> Custom 6. What a nice little car. I can definately see tooling around
> in an early '60's Rambler. Still small enough to fit in my garage.
> Still small and light enough to get decent mileage. Still an easy to
> work on 6.
>
> I like my American, and can't wait to get it sorted out - but the
> early Custom and Classic line is pretty cool, too. Hmmmmmmm - a Cross
> Country would be pretty styling for cruising, toting the kayak to the
> river or camping.While I like the '63 (and '64) Classics, the earlier
> models would probably fit in the garage a little better.
>
> Good thing my wallet is empty, or I'd be looking (and my wife would be
> none-too happy!).
>
> --
> Frank Swygert
> Publisher, "American Motors Cars"
> Magazine (AMC)
> For all AMC enthusiasts
> http://farna.home.att.net/AMC.html
> (free download available!)
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 9
> Date: Wed, 23 Jul 2008 17:57:07 -0400
> From: Frank Swygert <farna@xxxxxxx>
> Subject: Re: [Amc-list] Fusible Link wire gage size
> To: amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx
> Message-ID: <4887A933.8040008@xxxxxxx>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
>
> The 71 TSM says "hypalon insulated 20 gauge copper wire only". You might want to replace it with an in-line 30A fuse and regular wire. At least I think 30A would be enough (and not too much). Of course you can start with a 20A and replace it with a 30A if it turns out to be a problem.
>
> -----------------
> From: "Ted Dooling" <tdooling@xxxxxxxxxxx>
> Subject: [Amc-list] Fusible Link wire gage size
>
> Would anyone know the wire gage for the fusible link from the battery terminal of the starter relay to the main wire harness for my 71 Gremlin 232?
>
> I have had grounding issues since purchasing the car 2 years ago, but after painting the car I now have no electrical. Battery is good though because the bypass switches previously installed for the starter and wipers still allow the starter turn over and the wipers to turn on, just no alt light, dash lights, etc.
>
> --
> Frank Swygert
> Publisher, "American Motors Cars"
> Magazine (AMC)
> For all AMC enthusiasts
> http://farna.home.att.net/AMC.html
> (free download available!)
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 10
> Date: Wed, 23 Jul 2008 18:09:24 -0400 (EDT)
> From: adh@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx (Sandwich Maker)
> Subject: Re: [Amc-list] Hemmings short article on the '61 Custom Six
> To: amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx
> Message-ID: <200807232209.m6NM9Ob29682@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
>
> " From: Frank Swygert <farna@xxxxxxx>
> "
> " []
> "
> " Luckily the bigger, later six will fit (up to a 4.0L), but you have to
> " fab engine mounts and swap transmissions too, which also means the
> " torque tube and rear axle has to be swapped out. So it's a lot of work.
>
> you could use an iron warner with a de-unbalanced '67-'71 v8 flexplate
> and converter housing! and a '91-5 wrangler ecm for 4.0 with
> tf999/32rh [no tranny connection].
> ________________________________________________________________________
> Andrew Hay the genius nature
> internet rambler is to see what all have seen
> adh@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx and think what none thought
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 11
> Date: Wed, 23 Jul 2008 18:11:45 -0400
> From: Frank Swygert <farna@xxxxxxx>
> Subject: Re: [Amc-list] A Metro Question
> To: amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx
> Message-ID: <4887ACA1.5050806@xxxxxxx>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
>
> Austin sold it also in Britain and Commonwealth countries as the Austin Metropolitan.
>
> -----------------
> Date: Wed, 23 Jul 2008 16:25:17 GMT
> From: "Mr. AMC" <amc74hornet@xxxxxxxxx>
>
> A member of my AMC model group just built a nice Metro model. A question just came to mind. Were all the Metro's sold in the USA?
> "Doc"
>
> --
> Frank Swygert
> Publisher, "American Motors Cars"
> Magazine (AMC)
> For all AMC enthusiasts
> http://farna.home.att.net/AMC.html
> (free download available!)
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 12
> Date: Wed, 23 Jul 2008 18:10:39 -0400
> From: Frank Swygert <farna@xxxxxxx>
> Subject: Re: [Amc-list] Need Cam Specs for High compression
> 290/343/360
> To: mail@xxxxxxxxxxxx
> Message-ID: <4887AC5F.8050006@xxxxxxx>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
>
> >From 69 TSM:
> Cam lobe lift - 0.265"
> Intake Valve
> Opens 18*-30' BTDC
> Closes 67*-30' ATDC
> Exhaust Valve
> Opens 60*-30' BBDC
> Closes 25*-30' ATDC
> Duration (both) 266*
>
> Total valve lift is cam lobe lift x rocker arm ratio. I think the ratio is 1.5:1? Or is it 1.6:1 like the sixes? (0.3975" or 0.4505" lift?)
>
> --------------------
> Date: Wed, 23 Jul 2008 09:06:08 -0700 (PDT)
> From: Greg Taylor <amundaza@xxxxxxxxx>
>
> Hey guys,
> I'm trying to find the stock cam specs for the 10:1 290/343/360 motors.? Can someone please point me in the right direction or email me back please.? Thanks!
>
> --
> Frank Swygert
> Publisher, "American Motors Cars"
> Magazine (AMC)
> For all AMC enthusiasts
> http://farna.home.att.net/AMC.html
> (free download available!)
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 13
> Date: Wed, 23 Jul 2008 19:30:19 -0400
> From: David Crooks <david.crooks@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
> Subject: Re: [Amc-list] Need Cam Specs for High compression
> 290/343/360
> To: amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx
> Message-ID: <BLU0-SMTP801F480BB9F727741DAFAE8840@xxxxxxx>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII; format=flowed; delsp=yes
>
>
> > I'm trying to find the stock cam specs for the 10:1 290/343/360
> motors.?
>
> The TSM's list the specs, which appear to be the same for the
> 290/343/304/360 motors, and the '69 390. From my 69 and 70 TSM's:
>
> Intake Cam Lobe Lift 0.265"
>
> Intake Valve Timing
> Opens 18 degrees 30 minutes BTDC
> Closes 67 degrees 30 minutes ABDC
> Duration 266 Degrees
>
> Exhaust Cam Lobe Lift 0.265"
>
> Exhaust Valve Timing
> Opens 60 degrees 30 minutes BBDC
> Closes 25 degrees 30 minutes ATDC
> Duration 266 degrees
>
> Valve Opening Overlap 44 degrees
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 14
> Date: Thu, 24 Jul 2008 00:02:26 +0000
> From: Wrambler242@xxxxxxxxxxx
> Subject: Re: [Amc-list] Fusible Link wire gage size
> To: "AMC/Rambler owners, drivers and fans." <amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
> Message-ID:
> <072420080002.23573.4887C6920000735E00005C152215555884CDCBCD0A0C079D9F059D0E03@xxxxxxxxxxx>
>
>
> I've wondered how to relate/translate fuse links to fuses.
> I never cared much for fuse links, too much hassle to change out and the sparking that can occur should the end drop and touch a ground just seems a little unneeded to me!
> Those big ole fuses we have nowadays seem to me to be a better idea.
>
> --
> Mark Price
> Morgantown, WV
> 1969 AMC Rambler, 4.0L, EFI, T-5
> 2004 Grand Cherokee Laredo, 4.7L, Quadratrc II
> " Chronic Pain Hurts"
>
> -------------- Original message ----------------------
> From: Frank Swygert <farna@xxxxxxx>
> > The 71 TSM says "hypalon insulated 20 gauge copper wire only". You might want to
> > replace it with an in-line 30A fuse and regular wire. At least I think 30A would
> > be enough (and not too much). Of course you can start with a 20A and replace it
> > with a 30A if it turns out to be a problem.
> >
> > -----------------
> > From: "Ted Dooling" <tdooling@xxxxxxxxxxx>
> > Subject: [Amc-list] Fusible Link wire gage size
> >
> > Would anyone know the wire gage for the fusible link from the battery terminal
> > of the starter relay to the main wire harness for my 71 Gremlin 232?
> >
> > I have had grounding issues since purchasing the car 2 years ago, but after
> > painting the car I now have no electrical. Battery is good though because the
> > bypass switches previously installed for the starter and wipers still allow the
> > starter turn over and the wipers to turn on, just no alt light, dash lights,
> > etc.
> >
> > --
> > Frank Swygert
> > Publisher, "American Motors Cars"
> > Magazine (AMC)
> > For all AMC enthusiasts
> > http://farna.home.att.net/AMC.html
> > (free download available!)
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > Amc-list mailing list
> > Amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx
> > http://splatter.wps.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/amc-list
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 15
> Date: Wed, 23 Jul 2008 17:59:49 -0700
> From: Tom Jennings <tomj@xxxxxxx>
> Subject: Re: [Amc-list] Fusible Link wire gage size
> To: "AMC/Rambler owners, drivers and fans." <amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
> Message-ID: <4887D405.4030407@xxxxxxx>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
>
> Wrambler242@xxxxxxxxxxx wrote:
> > I've wondered how to relate/translate fuse links to fuses.
>
> They're supposed to be a last resort, 'pop fusible link instead of start
> a fire' eg. in a fender-bender that pinches a harness. They're usually
> in things that don't have a variable-load or user-access function, like
> ignition, alternator, etc. For things with motors that might stall
> (wiper, fan) or user access (changed headlamp, tail lamps, etc) there's
> a fuse.
>
> Headlamps are generally special too, they get a self-resetting circuit
> breaker (like a flasher) since they're so mission-critical at night; a
> partial short gives you blinking dim headlights and MAYBE a melted
> harness, which beats instant darkness and a crash.
>
> If they go bad from anything other than extreme age (eg. corroded
> crimps, etc) it indicates a severe problem or 'user error' eg. putting a
> 60 amp alternator where a 20 amp generator used to be, etc.
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 16
> Date: Wed, 23 Jul 2008 18:25:53 -0700 (PDT)
> From: d stohler <das24rules@xxxxxxxxx>
> Subject: [Amc-list] Hemmings short article on the '61 Custom Six
> To: amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx
> Message-ID: <889237.90239.qm@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
>
> my baby is a 62 10 car. classic custom to be exact. when i was still in oklahoma, i got ahold of a 65 classic. the wheel base wasnt much longer. but a little. the fenders were WAY longer. my 62 would fit in my garage and could still open the dryer door. (dryer was right at the right front tire) with the 65 in there, i could BARELY fit it in. had to park all but against the wall. and then the dryer door would open. as far as front and rear, garage door barely closed, and barely off the steps going into the house.
>
> as for inside, i didnt notice the 65 being a whole lot roomier. seemed wider. alot more head room in my 62 i thought. (maybe that was because the headliner was fallen down and would rest on my head when i was in??)
>
> i love the body lines of the 63-66 big cars. but i still prefer my 62.
>
> now i have a 62 classic, 63 american. my next rambler that i have always wanted since i got my 62 and started learning about these cars... a 65-66 ambo ragtop. they just look so classy and luxiurious to me.
>
> all 3 ramblers are 2 doors. the 65 and 63 are hardtops. my 62 is just 2 door with the posts. when i weighed it at the truck scales half way to town, it tipped them at 2950 with 3/4 tank of fuel and me out. full interior and everything. as it sits now. i have a 03 dodge peon as my daily driver. it tips the scales at 3000 with full tank of fuel and me not in it. *scrating head motion* interesting how 62 could be so tough, and ALL STEEL and weigh less than a newer PLASTIC TOY that falls apart when it hits a tall grass shoot??? well, i shouldnt say that. my neon has jumped over 3' tall snow burm, jumped the median on a texas freeway at 60mph dodging other cars, done a nice Z spin on the highway at 70 mph and the list goes on, but it sitll cruises. no problems what so ever. 32 mpg @ 70 mph. my 62 classic gets 26 mpg at 55-60 mph. have to see what my new american does with 2bbl power pack (i assume thats the power pack option??) and auto on a new rebuild. i
> expect no less than 25 after breakin is up.
>
> dave stohler
> my rambler pics@
> http://picasaweb.google.com/das24rules
>
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
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>
> End of Amc-list Digest, Vol 19, Issue 58
> ****************************************
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