Re: [Amc-list] SCORE!!! (i think??....)

[Frank Swygert <farna@xxxxxxx>]

GREAT score as long as it's in decent condition and you like (or don't mind?) the "so ugly it's cute" looks. I drove one for 14 years, and still have a project car in the back I might do something with. 

It's a 440H? Hardtop, and has the big arm rests in the back seat? If all the interior is in good condition you're all set! The seats should be the same as 64-65 buckets, IIRC, so a 64-65 upholstery kit should work. 

The easy way to check the trunnions requires a helper. Turn the wheels all the way to one side, then look at the trunnion caps on the bottom and upper cross bolt nut/bolt head while the helper "bounces" on the front of the car. The caps/nuts should remain stationary in the control arms. If they are turning in the control arms they really need to come apart and be replaced ASAP! The upper one is the hard one to fix only because the pin is so hard to get out most of the time. The pin is rifle drilled on the head end and usually wrings off. When that happens weld the nut on the other end and try to unscrew it. It will likely wring off again, but you can usually get about half the pin out on that side -- only about 1/4" on the drilled side. Once the pin is out it's easy enough to fix though. 

The bottom pops right off. There's no sideways force on it. I put a block of wood under the upper arm so the suspension won't go down all the way then pull the lower trunnion off. If the holes in the arms aren't worn bad you're in luck! I always tack weld the lower cap nuts to the arms since losing one on a trip. Just put one good tack near the outside where it can be reached with a grinder or chisel in case it ever needs replacing. This makes inspection easy -- if the tack weld is broken the trunnion is starting to seize. 

If it all looks good just tack weld it. If the holes in the arms are badly worn you have two options: replace the arms or weld the cap nuts in. Yes, option two is a bit on the drastic side, but works. The trunnion should last 100K+ miles with proper maintenance, so it's not as bad as it seems. The lower arms usually wear to the outside, so you just push the caps to the inside (where there's still some original lip) and weld. I've only done one that way, but it was still going with no problems 10 years later, and may still be going! The upper arms need jam nuts welded to them after assembly. The only bad thing is the rubber o-ring that's used for a dust seal melts out while welding. Hasn't proven to be a problem if you grease the thing regularly - new grease keeps most trash pushed out. Plus these cars don't usually see daily service like mine (the one I fixed by welding) did for many years (even after the repair). 

Once the spring is out the whole assembly comes off by removing four bolts, the shock, and tie rod end. Easy to rebuild on a bench then put back in as an assembly. 

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Date: Sun, 13 Jul 2008 19:29:59 -0700 (PDT)
From: d stohler <das24rules@xxxxxxxxx>

well, i stumbled upon a 63 american friday afternoon on the way to a gun show i was at all weekend. a guy my stepdad knows. sittin in his driveway. was mine for $225. 440H. 

anyway, the american is new to me. dont know much about them. i know tom j has had issues with the front trunnions. WHAT DO I NEED TO CHECK THERE TO AVOID THEM???

-- 
Frank Swygert
Publisher, "American Motors Cars" 
Magazine (AMC)
For all AMC enthusiasts
http://farna.home.att.net/AMC.html
(free download available!)


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