Now. me, I would go with a Turbo'd AMC 2.5L Pushing thru an 700r4 since it is a BOLTUP transmission! Way to tempting to pass up. Think about it. It stays AMC, It gets an O/D trans that has all kinds of backing in the aftermarket, plus that low first gear to get the little 2.5 rolling and up into boost quick! Man, think 7lb of boost or so and second gear shift would be a handlfull!!! Clear the fenderwheels? Come on, go look on evil bay at 2.5L intakes. You could not ask for an easier intake to mod. Pick up a header to feed the turbo and modify it. If you got lucky you could use the cast exhaust and wrap the pipe under the engine and put the turbo on the right side. lok at some of the Wrangler series headers as they actualy wrap under the engine to begin with! Even normally asperated you could get a fun litle package put together pretty easily. Forget the six since AMC never gave us a good V6. Unless you want to consider the 4.7L dodge V8 as AMC's last design as some do. Then you could look at the 3.7L family of dodge V6's as "from the same line". Dare to be different! [as long as it's AMC powered].... -- Mark Price Morgantown, WV 1969 AMC Rambler, 4.0L, EFI, T-5 2004 Grand Cherokee Laredo, 4.7L, Quadratrc II " Chronic Pain Hurts" -------------- Original message ---------------------- From: Jim Blair <carnuck@xxxxxxxxxxx> > A: If something were to happen and say a reasonably pristine Rambler with a dead > 196 > were to fall into my hands (MUAHAHAHAHA!) then I would be VERY tempted to mod > the > intake/exhaust of an AMC 2.5L to run in the car. (tuck the header pipe closer, > lift > and curl the intake runners similar to late model Ford 300s) I picked up a fun > looking > little carb (Arram?) that is variable venturi that might end up on the BG241 IH > motor > to see if a little more oomph and MPGs can be squeezed out of it (6 MPG! Liquid > gold > flushed away down the HO*LE* 1 bbl!) before we give up. > > > From: Frank Swygert <farna@xxxxxxx> > Subject: Re: [Amc-list] Engine Interchange, 58 Rambler American > To: amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx > Message-ID: <47E07F22.9050007@xxxxxxx> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed > > Mark, you're pretty much SOL. All the later sixes are way to long for the > "small" American body (58-63). You will have to rebuild the engine you have or > swap something else in. That probably gets you to thinking a modern four > would be good, but those have a problem -- they are too WIDE for the small > American engine bay due to the intake manifold being far from the engine. Some > may > fit, but not without some sheet metal surgery under the hood, and then it > will still be tight. A 60 degree V-6 sounds good, but has the same width > problem > -- the accessories are mounted "wide" on all the rear drive configurations. > If you don't mind spending money on "hot rod" style accessory mounts, any 60* > V-6 (2.8L - 3.4L Chevy, 2.9L - 4.0L Ford) can be made to work. You'll need > the transmission too, and will need to have the driveshaft modified. Due to > the accessory brackets and even changing some of them, this can be expensive! > > There is, however, a reasonably affordable swap -- a Ford 200 or 250 I-6. > They are small bore/long stroke just like the old 195.6, and are short enough > to fit! They also have the intake cast as part of the head, and are narrow > enough too. Don't confuse the 200/250 with the older 240 (used through 64 or so > in cars and trucks) or 300 (used through the 90s in trucks only). Those are > too long! > > I would try to find a 250 from a mid 80s car. I'd only use a 200 if you run > across one at a great deal (many Mustangs and Falcons came with them and are > being converted to V-8s), why when you can get the bigger model for about the > same price? You will need the transmission and have to have the driveshaft > modified, but it won't be costly. In fact, it won't cost any more than > rebuilding a 195.6, even if you have to rebuild the Ford six. There is the > engine > mount issue, but that can be solved relatively easy. > > I wouldn't normally condone swapping a non-AMC engine in an AMC, but in this > case it's not a bad idea. The 195.6 is dependable, but it's costly to > rebuild and many parts are very hard to find. The Ford parts are still readily > available, at least by overnight delivery from a warehouse. Getting the correct > water pump for a 195.6 is difficult, even when waiting several days for it to > come in! It will cost $1000+ to properly rebuild the 195.6. That includes > boring oversize and getting new pistons, and if you do a lot of the work. It > cost me around $800 when I built one in the early 90s, and I was told I got the > last set of pistons NAPA had on the east coast. Now you have to get them from > Egge Machine, or get lucky and find an NOS set. I have a set, but forget now > if they are L-head or OHV pistons -- I think they are L-head. Saving for a > "rainy day" project... So if restoring, build the original engine -- nothing > more you can do! If it's a driver, well, store the original and make > bolt-on mods where you can. > > _________________________________________________________________ > Need to know the score, the latest news, or you need your Hotmail®-get your > "fix". > http://www.msnmobilefix.com/Default.aspx > -------------- next part -------------- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: > http://splatter.wps.com/pipermail/amc-list/attachments/20080319/7f2a3f9e/attachm > ent.htm > _______________________________________________ > Amc-list mailing list > Amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx > http://splatter.wps.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/amc-list
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