On Sun, 9 Mar 2008, Bruce Griffis wrote: > So - any hints on removing broken bleeder valves? The wheel cylinder > has 16 miles on it. How'd it break? The bleeder doesn't need to be THAT tight, just snug. You'll have to use the usual tools to get the broken one out (extractors and all that). Ive always had bad luck with that sort of work. > just hit the brake shoe with brake cleaner? I didn't get any grease or > oil on the shoe, and it only has 16 miles on it - so if I can > clean it, I'd prefer to. Eh, others may disagree, but if you haven't cooked it in driving I think freon brake cleaner will do it. Oil and grease are another story. Yeah, testing especially on really old parts is a good idea. Gross errors like big leaks usually show up in bleeding procedures, where the ends result of bleeding is a firm pedal. A nice followup is, after you get the pedal stiff after bleeding, give the blleder area and all new/tightened/changed parts and joints a squirt with brake cleaner and run a dry rag under new joints. Press the pedal hard a few times. Then go put your clean and washed and dry fingers under all the joints/parts -- better be no fluid. Flared tubing ends especially can seep slowly and pass bleeding OK and seep out a lot of fluid over time. Dont' grossly overtighten joints If unsure, leave not tight enough, bleed, leak-check as above, and tighten just enough to stop any leak. Overtightening stresses parts and causes failures more than it stops leaks. _______________________________________________ Amc-list mailing list Amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx http://splatter.wps.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/amc-list