[Amc-list] 2 Bbl options

[Jesse <j2sax@xxxxxxxxx>]

I really like the AMC-list and find a lot of great
info here.  You might also want to try the ifsja.org
List for Grand Waggie issues and info... nothing but
BIG jeeps!  

You are most likely having a failure of the Power
Valve in the carb.  A lot of people totally rag on the
MC 2100/2150 and a lot of people swear by them.  (not
at them!)

If you can find a Motorcraft rebuild kit
(discountinued but you can still find them online)
they are really good quality and have good Power
Valves, however, the BWD/Jiffy/Standard/Echlin kits
have gone way down on quality.  One backfire can
generally kill these Power valves... regardless the
diaphragms do not last.  

BTW, if you have the least little bit of mechanical
inclination, you should be able to rebuild this carb
yourself, just to say you did it!  Now, if you have
cash dripping from your ears or just no time
whatsover, ask your local speed shop who is
comfortable with carbs to build it for you.   

I normally pay the extra to buy a Holley Power Valve
which is no big deal for the older models with the
single stage PV because they are under $10.  You can
tell because they are basically flat on one side.  

Your Waggie has a 2 stage power valve and you
basically have to buy one for a Holley 4 Bbl... try
Holley 125-208.  (10.5 and 5.5 Hg), though you might
remove yours and check for the settings and call
Summit to match it.  Unfortunately, these PV's are
$25-35!  On top of that the rebuild kits are $30
because of their cr**py 2 stage PV.  It double the
parts cost of the rebuild, but the Holley PV's are
better quality.  

You will be told that that PV is different than the
MC/Autolite 2 bbl because it is too short, but that is
only if you try to put a single stage in a dual stage
carb... and you can still get away with it with some
carefully placed blue threadlock!  I would go with the
2 stage, regardless. 

Before you do your next rebuild, do a good tuneup and
make sure your timing is right, dist advance is
working correctly and fuel pressure is right.  If you
are going to be keeping the vehicle, I would get the
best SPark plugs you can afford for an AMC V8, then
get a cap, dist base adapter, rotor, plug wires, coil
wire "pig-tail" and coil for an 82 Ford 460 (much more
pricey than stock stuff, but 3 x's as powerful!)  

To save money, you can get the coil and mounting
bracket from a Crown Vic, Mustang or Lincoln at a
Salvage yard or go to ifsja.org and you can order a
cool TFI coil mounting bracket that bolts in the stock
location.  

Make sure your ign module is good.. I think NAPA still
tests these.... if not, you might consider doing an
HEI ign module upgrade... go to any Jeep site and get
it.  

The whole point is you don't want any backfiring on
your nice new pwr vlv.  

Also VERY important to make sure your fuel filter is
good.  Since these are bypass filters they act as a
regulator.  If the bypass gets clogged it causes a
pressure buildup which can overpower your needle and
seat and cause a major rich condition, whcih can screw
up your cat and muffler, air tubes... I think you get
the point!  

AMC people often have no idea how many cascading
problems can be caused by that silly little $5-$7
filter... get a good brand too!  

Hope this wasn't too much info, but I go through this
a lot as I revive many FSJ's that have been abandoned.
 

OK, now if you don't want to keep things stock and you
have money, you can also get a Holley 2 Bbl.  500 CFM
is decent.  Not as good for off-roading without mods,
but no big deal if you are around towner.  Popular
with circle racers so more expensive to get than the
MC 2 Bbl.  

On to the 4 Bbl/ aluminum intake.  

Next level- you can do a GM EFI replacement really
popular now, but you need some skills or jingle!  

Ultimate- Edelbrock full EFI and Ign replacement!  

Do well, 

Jesse


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