Re: [Amc-list] Good Rambler day! (big nut driveshaft loose?

[Frank Swygert <farna@xxxxxxx>]

Remarks dispersed within message below:

Date: Tue, 26 Feb 2008 21:00:58 -0800 (PST)
From: Tom Jennings <tomj@xxxxxxx>

On Tue, 26 Feb 2008, Frank Swygert wrote:
> The results are if you stop hard, but not going fast enough
> or so hard that the rear end of the car comes up much, you
> sling the driveshaft out from under the car.

TOM:
??? Not sure how that is supposed to happen? The only thing that
can change pinion to trans distance is the rear spring swing,
that's not enough to drop the driveshaft but a good 4 inches
or more.

Even if so, with the driveshaft clinched to the rear, the total
amount it coudl move for/aft is the same, so it's MORE likely
the front spline would come undone. Right?!


Frank:
I thought I typed it wrong, but I'm correct. If the rear end "squats" or doesn't come up the pinion stays in the same place or goes back a little. There is a good bit of space between the end of the output shaft on the trans and the inside "bottom" of the yoke, so the driveshaft CAN move forward a couple inches. There's no way to squeeze or force the shaft in with the car at rest even with the yoke pushed all the way forward. The engine mounts probably give a little when you stop, and the rear yoke then "jack knifes" due to centrifugal force and pops out. That's my best guess. I only know that it WILL FOR SURE happen! Slung that puppy out THREE TIMES in a couple weeks before I figured out how to keep it in (well, before GFs dad heard me say something about it and told me!). The rear yoke is probably stuck so tight now that it may not move. The first one I ever took off was #$%$% to get off (then had the nerve not to stay on when put back!!) -- had to drive it off with a block
  of wood and hammer. You're safe for now, but I'd tighten the nut just as a precaution. 

> If you need to remove the driveshaft, support the rear axle
> with jack stands so the car's weight is on the springs. Then
> get under and take the caps off the u-joint, the ones in the
> axle yoke.

TOM:
Since they're press-fits, that would be a major PITA!!


Frank:
Yes, but it's easier than you think, and much faster than pulling the rear axle! Getting the inside clips off is the hardest part. Don't set the park break and leave it in neutral so the shaft can be rotated. Then knock the driveshaft sideways with a block of wood and hammer or heavy wood/rubber/plastic/rawhide mallet. I use a block of wood and 2# shop hammer. Place the wood against the welded in yoke on the driveshaft so the shaft doesn't get bent. Knock it to one side, take a cap off, knock it the other way for the second one. Putting the new ones on is much easier -- drive it right in! Just make sure the cross is in the cap being driven or some of the needle bearings may fall sideways. It may be possible to get a big C-clamp and a couple sockets in there to press the joint out, but I've always driven them out/in. Did lose a cap once because a couple needles fell sideways and bent, but the joints are rather common and relatively inexpensive ($25??).

-- 
Frank Swygert
Publisher, "American Motors Cars" 
Magazine (AMC)
For all AMC enthusiasts
http://farna.home.att.net/AMC.html
(free download available!)


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