Re: [Amc-list] clutch questions

[Tom Jennings <tomj@xxxxxxx>]

> You can leave the Classic tailshaft housing on. The seal in the housing
> is the same as the American, and in the same location. You just have that
> flange hanging out under the car is all. All splines on the small BW
> trannys are the same IIRC -- even the M-35 yoke will fit a T-96... I
> think. I'm not sure about the M-40, but I'm pretty sure they do. The M-8
> and M-1x use the same yoke as a T-89 and T-10 standard shift trans --
> that I know for a fact!

Well that's good to know... I have a lot of these thins in my iron pile, 
which I get to MOVE soon... it's not that big, and I get to spread it out 
and do some makeshift shelves.

I have a lot of unpopular parts -- because thats what my cars use! :-) T96, 
alum. air-cooled BW autos, T14, T150+OD, driveshafts and yokes, '70 232, 
etc. So at some point I'll measure, compare and verify.


> One thing to note when changing trannys from pre 63 (64 American) and
> post is that the speedo turns the opposite direction. The speedo runs off
> the TOP of the driven ger on the tailshaft in early cars, bottom in late
> ones.

Oh that would be just a blast to figure out as you pull out the driveway...

> The old T-96 isn't designed to downshift for engine braking. It just
> wasn't done in the 30s-50s. That's the main reason the synchro doesn't
> last today -- people shift it like a modern trans. You should only
> downshift with your foot on the brake and speed falls to the point you
> need second to start back, not "early" and let clutch out for engine
> braking. You have to think 40s-50s, and maybe grandma/pa driving.

I'll keep that in mind, thanks! Serious engine braking bugs me for some 
reason, and tend to not do it. Just as well it turns out! I'm downshifting 
3-2 for an impending intersection usually at speeds too low to pull really 
in 3rd. Synchro isn't much help even there.

> I wouldn't worry about the clutch. They either work or don't, and I've
> never had one suddenly go out. The throwout will make noise before going
> south, and the disc will start slipping bad. Since you don't count on the
> car for daily driving you can wait a week for a clutch to come in. That
> car doesn't stress the clutch a lot.

I am driving it every day :-) New-toy-syndrome! Since the slipping is gone 
I'm a lot less worried. ANd yeah, I'll stuff in a 9" clutch, a no-brainer, 
as 8.5" was adequate.



> While I've writing, does all the Twin-Stick controls work correctly?
> That's important to keep the OD in good health, especially the kick-down
> circuit! You also need to use 2nd+OD with that trans. That's why the big
> gap between 2nd and 3rd when not using OD. With a standard gear T-96 2+OD
> is about the same as 3rd.

Kickdown doesn't work. The shifter ball was so stripped you couldn't use 
it, which matters because it's got the kickdown switch built into it. Which 
makes it rare as hens teeth and I've been unable to find a replacement.

So I made one from the OD shift ball, which is the same as the console 
shifted non-Twin Stick. I just drilled it to match. Came out OK, even 
thouhg that old plastic is somethin really weird (don't get any solvents 
near it!).

So just yesterday I got the shiftball on. No work. The rest of the OD 
system seems OK (governor, etc) so I'll make it go. This is a vacuum-switch 
system, not kickdown switch on throttle, and that wire was pulled off the 
spark coil, so likely there's an electrical problem.

Now that I'm this far along I'll fix it this weekend. It's electrically 
confusing but testable.

Yeah, that 2 to 3 gap is huge!!
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