[Amc-list] Javelin Clutch/Brake Assembly Interchange?

[BRIAN GOODMAN <goodmab@xxxxxxxxxxx>]

I am swapping a '71 AMX T-10 into a '69 Javelin SST with an automatic.  Will the clutch/brake pedal assembly from the '71 fit into the '69?  If not does anyone have one they want to swap?  Thanks.  Brian G.  goodmab@xxxxxxxxxxx



> From: amc-list-request@xxxxxxxxxxxx> Subject: Amc-list Digest, Vol 8, Issue 2> To: amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx> Date: Wed, 1 Aug 2007 11:54:15 -0700> > Send Amc-list mailing list submissions to> amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx> > To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit> http://www.amc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/amc-list> or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to> amc-list-request@xxxxxxxxxxxx> > You can reach the person managing the list at> amc-list-owner@xxxxxxxxxxxx> > When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific> than "Re: Contents of Amc-list digest..."> > > Today's Topics:> > 1. volt meter needle jumping around (hydeparker@xxxxxxxxx)> 2. Interesting Water Injection for DIY (Carbureted)> (greg_taylor@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx)> 3. Re: 195.6 full flow oil filter/pump (Frank Swygert)> 4. Re; volt meter needle jumping around (John Elle)> 5. Re: 195.6 full flow oil filter/pump (Wrambler242@xxxxxxxxxxx)> 6. Re: volt meter needle jumping around (Wrambler242@xxxxxxxxxxx)> 7. Re: volt meter needle jumping around (Tom Jennings)> 8. Re; Interesting Water Injection for DIY (Carbureted) (John Elle)> 9. Unsubscribe (Dave in Kentucky)> 10. Unsubscribe... (Dave in Kentucky)> 11. New AMC Products from FARNA Systems (AMC Magazine) (Frank Swygert)> 12. Re: 195.6 full flow oil filter/pump (Wrambler242@xxxxxxxxxxx)> 13. New to this and can't find information (adam young)> > > ----------------------------------------------------------------------> > Message: 1> Date: Wed, 1 Aug 2007 06:19:45 -0800> From: hydeparker@xxxxxxxxx> Subject: [Amc-list] volt meter needle jumping around> To: amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx> Message-ID: <21B16B5C6F6.00000245hydeparker@xxxxxxxxx>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII> > I have a '69 Scout that has a weird quirk: the volt meter needle bounces all over the place. This is a stock, in-dash volt meter, not an after-market job. > > I put a new alternator on a year ago, but the bouncing occured before the replacement. I've never replaced the voltage regulator, which is original. The truck was upgraded to an HEI distributor just before the alt. was replaced.> > Ideas on what to check? I could check with the Scout guys, but they're not as nice as you guys!> > Requisite AMC Content: The truck has a 304 in it, and a lot of folks ask if it's an AMC 304. It's not. Also, IHC put AMC 258s in Scouts in the 70s, but this truck was built before that started. And, like AMC, IHC spent years with various financial solvency problems. > > > ------------------------------> > Message: 2> Date: Wed, 1 Aug 2007 10:37:05 -0400> From: greg_taylor@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx> Subject: [Amc-list] Interesting Water Injection for DIY (Carbureted)> To: amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx, FSJ-List@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> Message-ID:> <OFE7FD1B87.8844BC36-ON8525732A.0050260F-8525732A.00508EC2@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"> > Came across this link, as my old H20 injection unit split a seam (it's 30 > years old). I might build one of these up and see how it works on the 360 > in the '89 Grand Wagoneer.> > http://website.lineone.net/~da.cushman/misc/mannject.html> > Sincerely,> Greg Taylor> > > > -------------- next part --------------> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...> URL: http://www.amc-list.com/pipermail/amc-list/attachments/20070801/571e9c4c/attachment.htm > > > ------------------------------> > Message: 3> Date: Wed, 01 Aug 2007 10:43:53 -0600> From: Frank Swygert <farna@xxxxxxx>> Subject: Re: [Amc-list] 195.6 full flow oil filter/pump> To: amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx> Message-ID: <46B0B849.6060501@xxxxxxx>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed> > There were other seemingly odd and pointless (considering the engine was being phased out) modifications made in the last year or two. The cam bearing size changed in 64 or 65 also. Building a 195.6 made after mid 63 model year can be a real headache getting the right cam and bearings now. I think the changes were related to testing 232 items, but no way to verify that. Might have been changes to reduce inventory, but I don't know if the late 195.6 cam bearings are the same as the 232 or not -- of course the cam itself is different (195.6 is about 3" shorter than a 232). Who knows? > > I'm not sure the lack of an oil filter is a long term reliability factor in the old engine design. The first L-head I owned had 170K+ on it and had never been torn apart. The first OHV I rebuilt had 130-140K on it and was still running decent. It had been run hot one or two times to many and the rings were loosing tension. The relatively slow turning engines seemed to be fine with a partial flow filter. Solid lifters helped -- no small passages to stop up. That's one reason the aluminum engine required a full flow filter. I've never seen a hydraulic lifter engine without a full flow, but then by the time hydro lifters became common so had the full flow filter. More filtering never hurt, as long as there's plenty oil flow after the filtering. > > -------------------> Date: Tue, 31 Jul 2007 20:55:49 -0700> From: Tom Jennings <tomj@xxxxxxx>> > Hell yeah! It looks like the weak point for long-term reliability with this > motor could be solved. It's odd they bothered to add it to the last year's > motors. It probably "fell out" of the 232 design/deploy phase; the aluminum > 195.6 apparently shares valve train components with the 232 (you can probably > drop 4.0 lifters in it!)> > -- > Frank Swygert> Publisher, "American Motors Cars" > Magazine (AMC)> For all AMC enthusiasts> http://farna.home.att.net/AMC.html> (free download available!)> > > > ------------------------------> > Message: 4> Date: Wed, 1 Aug 2007 07:57:59 -0700> From: "John Elle" <johnelle@xxxxxxxxx>> Subject: [Amc-list] Re; volt meter needle jumping around> To: <amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx>> Message-ID: <000901c7d44c$5b0907f0$66de0d82@john1>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"> > SNIP> have a '69 Scout that has a weird quirk: the volt meter needle> bounces all over the place.> I put a new alternator on a year ago, but the bouncing occured > before the replacement. I've never replaced the voltage regulator,> which is original> Ideas on what to check? > Snip> If this was mine, the first thing that I would do is to obtain a > test volt meter. If you do not have one and live near a Harbor > Freight out let, they carry a Digital Voltmeter for about $5.00,> and investment well worth making. A Radio Shack may carry> something cheap too!.> Your dash board voltmeter should be measuring across the > battery terminals (via your wiring harness and assorted > connectors or connections. I would try to find out if the reading> you are getting on your dash board meter is really a problem > with the electrical system or just a bad meter. I would do this> by reading the battery voltage across the battery terminals > to see if it is doing the same thing as the dash board meter. > If the voltage across the battery as measured with your test > meter is stable you could assume a loose connection at a > plug such as a fire wall connector or a ground connection some> where in the wiring to the dash board meter, or in fact any > connection related to going to the dash board meter. > I might also remove the wiring from the dash board meter> and plug the test meter in to that wiring, if the reading is > stable at the wiring, than it would sound like the meter is > bad. If the reading bounces at the wiring to the meter, then > the wiring could be bad (loose connections at plugs etc.)> If the reading bounces around no mater where you measure > it, then the voltage regulator could be defective right along. > > > > SNIP> I could check with the Scout guys, but they're not as nice as> you guys!> SNIP> > Wow! The Fa?ade works, normally most of us are closet > grouchies!> > SNIP> Requisite AMC Content:> SNIP> > If you would like to talk to us more often you could;> 1. Pretend your 304 is really an AMC motor or > 2. I would be willing to take the Scout in trade for > a Hornet that has a real AMC 304 in it. > > Good luck > John> -------------- next part --------------> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...> URL: http://www.amc-list.com/pipermail/amc-list/attachments/20070801/e962a57a/attachment.htm > > > ------------------------------> > Message: 5> Date: Wed, 01 Aug 2007 15:19:18 +0000> From: Wrambler242@xxxxxxxxxxx> Subject: Re: [Amc-list] 195.6 full flow oil filter/pump> To: "AMC/Rambler owners, drivers and fans." <amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx>> Message-ID:> <080120071519.9496.46B0A475000EA46F000025182216557996CDCBCD0A0C079D9F059D0E03@xxxxxxxxxxx>> > > Yeah, probably someone went, "Hey, if we're pumping this stuff around and it keeps the engine running, why don't we filter it better"???> Well, duh. Or, hey it's the last year, lets fix it before we kill it!> Kind of like Sadam, clean him, take care of him, then hang him....> > --> Mark Price> Morgantown, WV> 1969 AMC Rambler, 4.0L, EFI, T-5> " I was different before people dared to be different" > > -------------- Original message ----------------------> From: Tom Jennings <tomj@xxxxxxx>> > On Tuesday 31 July 2007 18:27:18 Wrambler242@xxxxxxxxxxx wrote:> > > > > I knew that would peak your interest!> > > > Hell yeah! It looks like the weak point for long-term reliability with this > > motor could be solved. It's odd they bothered to add it to the last year's > > motors. It probably "fell out" of the 232 design/deploy phase; the aluminum > > 195.6 apparently shares valve train components with the 232 (you can probably > > drop 4.0 lifters in it!)> > _______________________________________________> > Amc-list mailing list> > Amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx> > http://www.amc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/amc-list> > > > ------------------------------> > Message: 6> Date: Wed, 01 Aug 2007 15:43:23 +0000> From: Wrambler242@xxxxxxxxxxx> Subject: Re: [Amc-list] volt meter needle jumping around> To: "AMC/Rambler owners, drivers and fans." <amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx>> Message-ID:> <080120071543.27481.46B0AA1B00019BE600006B592216557996CDCBCD0A0C079D9F059D0E03@xxxxxxxxxxx>> > > I'd do a simple test for input voltage with a voltmeter.> If the test voltmeter shows level voltage.> I'd check ground and then assume that he gauge as fought a courageous battle and succumbed to the ravages of time. I'd use my Rambler mentality an dlook for used one. Failing that I'd find a gauge replair place and have it rebuilt, Or tag one under that dash, depending on the the vehicle and my mood> > --> Mark Price> Morgantown, WV> 1969 AMC Rambler, 4.0L, EFI, T-5> " I was different before people dared to be different" > > -------------- Original message ----------------------> From: hydeparker@xxxxxxxxx> > I have a '69 Scout that has a weird quirk: the volt meter needle bounces all > > over the place. This is a stock, in-dash volt meter, not an after-market job. > > > > I put a new alternator on a year ago, but the bouncing occured before the > > replacement. I've never replaced the voltage regulator, which is original. The > > truck was upgraded to an HEI distributor just before the alt. was replaced.> > > > Ideas on what to check? I could check with the Scout guys, but they're not as > > nice as you guys!> > > > Requisite AMC Content: The truck has a 304 in it, and a lot of folks ask if it's > > an AMC 304. It's not. Also, IHC put AMC 258s in Scouts in the 70s, but this > > truck was built before that started. And, like AMC, IHC spent years with > > various financial solvency problems. > > _______________________________________________> > Amc-list mailing list> > Amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx> > http://www.amc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/amc-list> > > > ------------------------------> > Message: 7> Date: Wed, 1 Aug 2007 09:49:08 -0700> From: Tom Jennings <tomj@xxxxxxx>> Subject: Re: [Amc-list] volt meter needle jumping around> To: "AMC/Rambler owners, drivers and fans." <amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx>> Message-ID: <200708010949.08881.tomj@xxxxxxx>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"> > On Wednesday 01 August 2007 07:19:45 hydeparker@xxxxxxxxx wrote:> > > I have a '69 Scout that has a weird quirk: the volt meter needle bounces> > all over the place. This is a stock, in-dash volt meter, not an> > after-market job.> > > Ideas on what to check? I could check with the Scout guys, but they're not> > as nice as you guys!> > Does the voltage bounce UP over 14V? If so, fix this ASAP as it's eating your > light bulbs, batteries and electronics.> > Is there any pattern to the bouncing? RPM related? > > Without having seen it, I would guess the following items in decreasing order:> > * Electrical connections between alt and reg> * If this is a 'one wire' (really, 3 wire) modern alt it's the stupid plug > gone bad> * regulator not well-grounded> * ground wire from alternator to chassis off or loose> * Wiring> * regulator> * Wiring> > The alternator/regulator has an internal voltage reference (a zener diode), > and measures the battery voltage, compares the two, and adjusts output > accordingly. What happens is, when a connecting wire gets crapped up (loose, > corroded, etc) its electrical resistance goes up, the alt/reg thinks sees > that as the battery voltage low, and cranks up alternator output. If the > battery is actually OK it cooks the battery.> > Any push-on connector is immediately suspicious. Take 'em off, wire brush the > flats, crimp slightly, it ought to be SHINY and TIGHT. You should be able to > PULL HARD on the wire in the connector. The wire should be TIGHT in the > crimp. > > Factory crimp connectors, especially those with thew molded black rubber, are > usually of amazingly good quality crimps. I've taken them apart to look. > Unless one is realyl lousy it's probably OK inside. Clean, tighten, > reinstall.> > Also of CRITICAL importance are electrical grounds. The tin can of the > regulator is an electrical connection. If it's loose you're screwed. Take it > off, sand or wirebrush it SHINY, includin the spots on the firewall/fender, > if the screws are loose go one size larger or use a screw and nut, and make > it TIGHT. Hell make all two, three, four tight. Redundancy never hurts!> > > ------------------------------> > Message: 8> Date: Wed, 1 Aug 2007 10:13:42 -0700> From: "John Elle" <johnelle@xxxxxxxxx>> Subject: [Amc-list] Re; Interesting Water Injection for DIY> (Carbureted)> To: <amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx>> Message-ID: <001901c7d45f$53786810$66de0d82@john1>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"> > I have seen water injection factory installed on farm > tractors built between 1910 and 1915 using the cooling > system as the water source. They in general were > manual control and instructions on a placard generally > referred to temporary use to stop knocking when needed.> Compression ratio's of 4:1 were the norm at that time> with higher compression not generally seen until in > the late 20's/early 30's with optional compression > ratios of up to 6:1 available in cars. Also the development> of Ethyl or high test gasoline encouraged higher > compression ratios.> It was not uncommon to run an early Tractor on either> Gasoline of Kerosene of the time with no changes > other than filling the tank with different products. > The Olds compact of the early 60's with the 215 Aluminum> V8 turbocharged was factory equipped with H20/Alcohole> injection as were a couple of other interesting autos of > the period. > A web search using the phrase Water Injection showed > up 547,000 web sites so there is plenty of data out > there on this fascinating and ageless subject. > John. > > > -------------- next part --------------> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...> URL: http://www.amc-list.com/pipermail/amc-list/attachments/20070801/b0baab8b/attachment.htm > > > ------------------------------> > Message: 9> Date: Wed, 1 Aug 2007 12:07:14 -0500> From: "Dave in Kentucky" <Dave314@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>> Subject: [Amc-list] Unsubscribe> To: "AMC/Rambler owners, drivers and fans." <amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx>> Message-ID: <004401c7d45e$68388f60$6101a8c0@Davescomputer>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"> > I'm interested in getting a monthly newsletter-not lots of e-mails with technical information, so please unsubscribe me. Thanks............Dave> ----- Original Message ----- > From: Frank Swygert > To: amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx > Sent: Wednesday, August 01, 2007 11:43 AM> Subject: Re: [Amc-list] 195.6 full flow oil filter/pump> > > There were other seemingly odd and pointless (considering the engine was being phased out) modifications made in the last year or two. The cam bearing size changed in 64 or 65 also. Building a 195.6 made after mid 63 model year can be a real headache getting the right cam and bearings now. I think the changes were related to testing 232 items, but no way to verify that. Might have been changes to reduce inventory, but I don't know if the late 195.6 cam bearings are the same as the 232 or not -- of course the cam itself is different (195.6 is about 3" shorter than a 232). Who knows? > > I'm not sure the lack of an oil filter is a long term reliability factor in the old engine design. The first L-head I owned had 170K+ on it and had never been torn apart. The first OHV I rebuilt had 130-140K on it and was still running decent. It had been run hot one or two times to many and the rings were loosing tension. The relatively slow turning engines seemed to be fine with a partial flow filter. Solid lifters helped -- no small passages to stop up. That's one reason the aluminum engine required a full flow filter. I've never seen a hydraulic lifter engine without a full flow, but then by the time hydro lifters became common so had the full flow filter. More filtering never hurt, as long as there's plenty oil flow after the filtering. > > -------------------> Date: Tue, 31 Jul 2007 20:55:49 -0700> From: Tom Jennings <tomj@xxxxxxx>> > Hell yeah! It looks like the weak point for long-term reliability with this > motor could be solved. It's odd they bothered to add it to the last year's > motors. It probably "fell out" of the 232 design/deploy phase; the aluminum > 195.6 apparently shares valve train components with the 232 (you can probably > drop 4.0 lifters in it!)> > -- > Frank Swygert> Publisher, "American Motors Cars" > Magazine (AMC)> For all AMC enthusiasts> http://farna.home.att.net/AMC.html> (free download available!)> > _______________________________________________> Amc-list mailing list> Amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx> http://www.amc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/amc-list> -------------- next part --------------> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...> URL: http://www.amc-list.com/pipermail/amc-list/attachments/20070801/8e76ae6c/attachment.htm > > > ------------------------------> > Message: 10> Date: Wed, 1 Aug 2007 12:08:32 -0500> From: "Dave in Kentucky" <Dave314@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>> Subject: [Amc-list] Unsubscribe...> To: <Amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx>> Message-ID: <005001c7d45e$970526a0$6101a8c0@Davescomputer>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"> > Please unsubscribe me from the e-mails with the technical questions. Thanks..........Dave> -------------- next part --------------> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...> URL: http://www.amc-list.com/pipermail/amc-list/attachments/20070801/cd7b28e6/attachment.htm > > > ------------------------------> > Message: 11> Date: Wed, 01 Aug 2007 14:09:57 -0600> From: Frank Swygert <farna@xxxxxxx>> Subject: [Amc-list] New AMC Products from FARNA Systems (AMC Magazine)> To: amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx> Message-ID: <46B0E895.9040903@xxxxxxx>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed> > I've been working on a "field guide" for AMC number decoding for some > time. I finally found the time to lay it all out while I was in > Afghanistan last summer, and made the final touches over the winter. I > sent the draft to a couple well known AMC people and got some helpful > comments, including a couple omissions. I decided to wait until Kenosha > to unveil the new book. It went over well there, I sold quite a few > copies. Not as much as I'd hoped, but people tend to save their cash for > things they can't get later and take a business card for those they can > -- I'll be getting orders from the show over the next couple months.> > "The Red, White & Blue Book" is 66 pages with all the available info > needed to decode all serial, VIN, and body plate numbers from 1955-1988 > AMC related cars. VIN info is included for Jeep as well. There are some > areas, such as trim codes, that can't be fully decoded for every year. I > simply don't have and couldn't find the info. If anyone has it I will > gladly add it to this "field guide". The table of contents is below:> Introduction - page 4> Series Numbers - page 6> Serial Numbers> 1955-57 - page 8> 1958-66 - page 10> Vehicle Identification Numbers (VIN)> 1966-67 - page 11> 1968-80 - page 14> 1981-88 - page 15> Check Digit: 1981-88 - page 18> Unit Body Identification Plate & Door Labels> 1955-59 - page 19> 1960-67 - page 20> 1968-76 - page 21> 1977-88 - page 24> Door Labels - page 23-25> Body Number - page 26> Model Number - page 28> Trim Number - page 31> Paint Number - page 34> Final Assembly Number - page 39> 1961-66 Canadian Unit Body Id Plate - page 40> Engine Serial Number: 1955-59 - page 42> Engine Day Build Code - page 44> Engine Under/Over Size Code - page 48> Engine Casting Numbers - page 49> Engine Colors - page 55> Production Numbers? - page 56> Resources - page 58> Visual Engine ID Guide - page 62> Note that production numbers are not included, "Production Numbers?" is > a short article giving my personal view of production numbers in general.> > "The Red, White & Blue Book" is $15 USD, shipping included. Canadian > orders add $1, Overseas $2.50 to cover additional shipping. The book has > color cardstock covers with a plastic spiral binding. It's a handy > 5.5"x8.5" size, and the spiral binding makes it easy to lay open or > double over.> > It seems like a lot for a small 66 page booklet, but it covers a lot of > raw data. The only way to get that data is to amass a collection of TSMs > and parts books. Even those only interested in Javelins need seven TSMs > and a couple parts books to get all the info -- that would cost > $500-$700. You'd have more with the TSMs, but a lot of redundant info. > And those wouldn't help identify much outside that seven year range. > I've not only spent thousands on TSMs and parts books, but many hours > over the last 10 years compiling the information into an easy to use > volume.> ------------------------------------> > I also have two parts books now on CD-ROM -- 1960-65 and 1967-72. It > took about 24 hours just to scan the 60-65 book in! Both books are > broken down into Group Number sections. The Alphabetical Index is a > separate file. Find what you want in the AI file (which is broken down > by group number, not page number) then go to that group section. Both > books have part numbers and illustrations, and are of the original AMC > manuals as published. I've also included some bonus material on the CDs, > including a collection of photos I've collected over the years.> > These CDs are $22 USD each including shipping in the US. Add $1 for > Canadian, $2 for overseas shipping.> -------------------> > Finally, Ralph Ausman is letting me sell some of his outstanding > AMC-List Archive CDs. Currently he's got everything archived from > 1997-January 2007. He doesn't just save the list messages, he uses a > customized search engine (included on the CD) to sort the messages. It's > use is similar to an internet search engine (like Google), except it > only searches the CD. You do have to read through a thread to get all > the info, but it's very interesting to see all the discussion points and > opinions on how to fix something or just general AMC trivia. If you > haven't been on the list for long, or don't have fast internet, this is > definitely the way to go! Many subjects have been discussed time and > again, it's great to see how information progresses over time.> > These are $25 including shipping in the US (Add $1 for Canadian, $2 for > overseas shipping).> ------------------> > To order any of the above:> > 1. Send a PayPal payment to farna@xxxxxxxx State in the notes what you > want.> 2. Go to http://farna.home.att.net/purchase.html. Use a credit card by > clicking on the PayPal button and entering the amount of purchase. Put > what you want in the note/message area or send me a separate e-mail.> NOTE: You don't need an account and won't be bothered by PayPal -- I pay > them to process credit card orders.> 3. Send a check or money order (drawn on a US bank or an International > Money Order) to:> FARNA> 147 Tom Moore Road> Leesville, SC 29070-7140> Don't forget to include a note saying what you want! It's always a good > idea to make a not on the check also.> > > -- > Frank Swygert> Publisher, "American Motors Cars" > Magazine (AMC)> For all AMC enthusiasts> http://farna.home.att.net/AMC.html> (free download available!)> > > > ------------------------------> > Message: 12> Date: Wed, 01 Aug 2007 18:34:20 +0000> From: Wrambler242@xxxxxxxxxxx> Subject: Re: [Amc-list] 195.6 full flow oil filter/pump> To: "AMC/Rambler owners, drivers and fans." <amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx>> Message-ID:> <080120071834.29020.46B0D22C0006DD280000715C2216525806CDCBCD0A0C079D9F059D0E03@xxxxxxxxxxx>> > > My first 64 had 232K on it.> IIRC, it's history was a valve job and in car rering about midway thru it's life> > --> Mark Price> Morgantown, WV> 1969 AMC Rambler, 4.0L, EFI, T-5> " I was different before people dared to be different" > > -------------- Original message ----------------------> From: Frank Swygert <farna@xxxxxxx>> > There were other seemingly odd and pointless (considering the engine was being > > phased out) modifications made in the last year or two. The cam bearing size > > changed in 64 or 65 also. Building a 195.6 made after mid 63 model year can be a > > real headache getting the right cam and bearings now. I think the changes were > > related to testing 232 items, but no way to verify that. Might have been changes > > to reduce inventory, but I don't know if the late 195.6 cam bearings are the > > same as the 232 or not -- of course the cam itself is different (195.6 is about > > 3" shorter than a 232). Who knows? > > > > I'm not sure the lack of an oil filter is a long term reliability factor in the > > old engine design. The first L-head I owned had 170K+ on it and had never been > > torn apart. The first OHV I rebuilt had 130-140K on it and was still running > > decent. It had been run hot one or two times to many and the rings were loosing > > tension. The relatively slow turning engines seemed to be fine with a partial > > flow filter. Solid lifters helped -- no small passages to stop up. That's one > > reason the aluminum engine required a full flow filter. I've never seen a > > hydraulic lifter engine without a full flow, but then by the time hydro lifters > > became common so had the full flow filter. More filtering never hurt, as long as > > there's plenty oil flow after the filtering. > > > > -------------------> > Date: Tue, 31 Jul 2007 20:55:49 -0700> > From: Tom Jennings <tomj@xxxxxxx>> > > > Hell yeah! It looks like the weak point for long-term reliability with this > > motor could be solved. It's odd they bothered to add it to the last year's > > motors. It probably "fell out" of the 232 design/deploy phase; the aluminum > > 195.6 apparently shares valve train components with the 232 (you can probably > > drop 4.0 lifters in it!)> > > > -- > > Frank Swygert> > Publisher, "American Motors Cars" > > Magazine (AMC)> > For all AMC enthusiasts> > http://farna.home.att.net/AMC.html> > (free download available!)> > > > _______________________________________________> > Amc-list mailing list> > Amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx> > http://www.amc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/amc-list> > > > ------------------------------> > Message: 13> Date: Wed, 01 Aug 2007 18:42:05 +0000> From: "adam young" <adamjyoung70@xxxxxxxxxxx>> Subject: [Amc-list] New to this and can't find information> To: amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx> Message-ID: <BAY103-F269AF2133C1D2C48CE4F6BC1E80@xxxxxxx>> Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed> > I have owned a 2 door 1963 Rambler Classic 770 with a inline 6 for 7 years. > My Father and I found his car, 2 door buick with nail head engine, and my 63 > classic in a pasture in Iowa for $50 each. For the past 7 years my dad has > finished his car and is now attending buick meets and car shows. Because I > was in college and stating in the real world I have yet to touch my car. Now > married with a 6 month at home I need to find a hoby to give an excuse to > get a way.> > First off, how rare is my car? I have yet to find a picture on the web. I > have been able to match up model numbers on the body but my engine date code > is 7 numbers long. Everyone talks about 6 digit numbers. My date code is > s903c01.> > If anyone out there has a 63 rambler classic 2 or 4 door please email me so > I can get more information.> > As a side note I am very pleased to notice how relaxed the AMC Clubs are. My > dad is a Buick club member and it seems a tad bit stuffy.> > Please feel free to pass any information my way> > Thanks!> > -Adam Young> > _________________________________________________________________> http://newlivehotmail.com> > > > ------------------------------> > _______________________________________________> Amc-list mailing list> Amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx> http://www.amc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/amc-list> > > End of Amc-list Digest, Vol 8, Issue 2> **************************************
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