Re: [Amc-list] 'Flexible Flyers' - Radial Tires.

["RetroRalph" <retroralph@xxxxxxxxxxx>]

This below info was posted to the list back in 1998.  It may help 
illustrate some of this setup.   Thanks to Ron Kolecki and George 
Beasley 9 years ago.

Those masonite pieces  have a rough side and a polished side.  Put the 
two polished or smooth sides together for placing under front tires.

See below:
***************************************************
Date: Tue, 07 Jul 1998 08:52:13 -0400
From: "Ronald E. Kolecki" <Ronald.E.Kolecki.1@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Alignment
George,
You've done it again! Great advice on the Masonite. definaltely works
better than sheetrock! Don't ask how I know.
That's what this list is great for- the home/backyard/shadetree types of
help we can all use. Along with the various warnings of how not to do
something- who had the runaway breather assembly a few months back? What
idiot dropped the tranny on his chest when the board broke along with a 
few
ribs? oops that was me!
Anyway, as usual, kudos to the old (over 20?) folks who help out with 
their
wealth of knowledge.
Impressed,
Buzz
At 06:53 AM 7/7/98 -0500, you wrote:
>
> Colin,
>
> You may have two problems. One, the camber may be too far positive.
> Two, you may have too much toe-in. Either one can wear the edges of
> the tires. First, look closely at the tire tread. A toe problem will
> show up as a slightly feathered edge to the tread blocks. If the
> outside edge of the tire is worn out, the inside edges of the tread
> blocks would show the feather. You can fix it with a little time and
> not much expense.
>
> For materials you'll need a long string and a sheet of Masonite. Cut
> the Masonite into squares. Use two squares under each front wheel,
> polished side to polished side. This allows the wheels to move around
> and not bind up when you make adjustments.
>
> Anchor the string at the back end of the car somewhere. the string
> needs to be at a height equal to the center of the axles and parallel
> to the side of the car. Make sure that it is parallel. Measure from
> the sidewalls of the rear tire to the string; it should be the same.
> Now you are ready to see what you've got.
>
> You can check the camber now. Use a stick or a board 90 degrees to
> the ground (straight up) at the string. Measure from the top of the
> wheel to the stick and then from the bottom of the wheel to the stick.
> If there is a difference, it is camber. If the top of the wheel is
> closer to the stick, it's positive camber. If the bottom is closer to
> the stick, it's negative camber. You can adjust it with the eccentric
> bolts on the inner end of the lower control arms. But I think the
> problem is more likely to be the toe-in.
>
> At the front of the car, measure from the rear of the front tire
> sidewall to the string. Write that measurement down. Now, measure
> from the front sidewall to the string and write that measurement down.
> Compare the two measurements. (And you are going to have to do this
> to both sides of the car, so don't get carried away on one side.) If
> the front measurement is great er than the rear measurement, you have
> toe-in. Some toe-in is good. There should be about 1/16 inch
> difference between the measurements. If there is a huge difference,
> that is probably your problem. You have to adjust the tierods to make
> it change.
>
> The tierods, if it has been a long time since it had an alignment,
> will probably need to have their threaded parts well lubricated with
> WD-40 or some penetrating lubricant. Then the clamping bolts that
> hold the adjusting sleeves have to be loosened. Get things loosened
> to where you can rotate the sleeves with a pair of pliers or even your
> hands. Make your adjustments. Also check to see if something is bent
> under there. Alignments usually don't change all by themselves.
> Anyway, do half of your adjusting on one side then go through the same
> procedures on the other side of the car and make what adjustments are
> necessary to get about 1/8 inch toe-in total for both sides.
>
> Once you string your car, you may never go to an alignment shop again.
> Let me know if you have more questions.
>
> George Beasley
_________________________________________________________

This is one of the helpful articles included on the AMC List Archives 
CD, and it is in the archived text of the AMC List archives text on the 
CD.
See ->>>  http://mysite.verizon.net/res79g4m/amc/index.htm
______________________________________________________________
Ralph Ausmann  -  Hillsboro, OR - > <ralph.ausmann@xxxxxxxxx>
http://mysite.verizon.net/res79g4m/ ... and "check the links"




----- Original Message ----- 
From: Tom Jennings
Subject: Re: [Amc-list] 'Flexible Flyers' - Radial Tires.

On Thu, 2007-07-05 at 13:26 +0000, Wrambler242@xxxxxxxxxxx wrote:
> You can compensate for sloping pads with shims under the tires.
> Front work can be done easier by sandwiching commercial floor tile 
> with wax paper between it.
> Once you get the footprint of the car you can mark the pad.

Oh that's a good process. Wax paper as a 'bearing'?
clipped>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> 


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