[Amc-list] Re; tubular strut rods
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[Amc-list] Re; tubular strut rods
- From: "John Elle" <johnelle@xxxxxxxxx>
- Date: Fri, 29 Jun 2007 16:15:00 -0700
Dave
SNIP
they offer tubular strut rod kits in 44* and 52*.
comes with brackets you weld to the frame. looks like
a more normal round bushing to fit inside the tube.
comes with rubber bushings. looks as tho if you
wanted, you could easily replace with poly. i think
that design rubber might work well.
http://www.heidts.com/heip14-2.htm
dave stohler
SNIP
Looking at the picture I don't think this is a solution
that would work very effectively. What this is doing is
sort of converting the lower control arm which has a
single pivot point as part of the control arm, and a
secondary pivot point as part of the rubber bushing for
the strut rod into a lower control arm with two pivot
points. The center line of the new pivot point, the end
of the tubular replacement component would have to end
up in line with the center line of the lower control arm
other wise the two pieces bolted together would bind
as the wheel moves up and down. Replacing the rubber
bushings with polyurethane would only aggravate the
situation.
In addition, the only place to weld it on an AMC car is
on the sheet metal that is spot welded into a box that
represents the lower chassis member if you will and not
only will it be welded to a sheet metal surface, but the
strength of that surface would be compromised by rust thus
with all of the monkey motion induced by the two pivot
points not being in line stressing the welded joint so
would any impact caused by hitting bumps in the road and
pot holes.
Also, you would loose the Caster Adjustment on the front
end. This would force you to get it right when it was
welded 'cause you would never be able to adjust it again.
However
This concept is similar to the Light Weight Strut Rod
manufactured by AM Racing in Canada
http://www.amracing.com/whatwedo/manupart.html
and then click on;
OUR <javascript:newWindow%20('../parts/sr001/sr001.html')> STRUT ROD
LIGHT WEIGHT
Which appears to use something on the order of a Tie Rod
end attached to a tube assembly to allow Caster adjustment.
The tie Rod end is fastened on to the lower control arm
which would allow the control arm to move both up and down
with the movement of the tire and fore and aft with the
adjustment of the castor.
The other end is mounted the same way, or similar to the Heidt
tubular strut rod. This has the same problem though of welding
to sheet metal with no re-enforcement at the mounting points.
But, if one were to use a later (1970 or
newer) adjustable strut rod, mounted in rubber on the existing
strut mounting assembly in the car, that piece then welded
on to a tube with the other end using something on the order
of tie rod end similar in fashion to the AM Racing unit you
would mimic the motion of the factory design, be able to adjust
caster which is needed and mount it in rubber to allow flexing
which is also needed at the chassis.
This would probably be a cost effective way to get around the
problems Tom had with his solution and you and others are
having trying to find parts and maybe come up with a
marketable product or at least plans so people could build
them their selves from either plans or a kit that would supply
the Strut Rod end to be mounted in the chassis with a rubber
bushing, a tube to be welded on to the strut rod end and a
tie rod end that would be welded on to the tube and a means
to mount it on to an existing hole that may exist on the
lower control arm. One you mimic the factory Geometry and
movement that it may be possible to go with Polyurethane
bushed ends if some people thought it was important.
Just a thought.
John.
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