Dave SNIP they offer tubular strut rod kits in 44* and 52*. comes with brackets you weld to the frame. looks like a more normal round bushing to fit inside the tube. comes with rubber bushings. looks as tho if you wanted, you could easily replace with poly. i think that design rubber might work well. http://www.heidts.com/heip14-2.htm dave stohler SNIP Looking at the picture I don't think this is a solution that would work very effectively. What this is doing is sort of converting the lower control arm which has a single pivot point as part of the control arm, and a secondary pivot point as part of the rubber bushing for the strut rod into a lower control arm with two pivot points. The center line of the new pivot point, the end of the tubular replacement component would have to end up in line with the center line of the lower control arm other wise the two pieces bolted together would bind as the wheel moves up and down. Replacing the rubber bushings with polyurethane would only aggravate the situation. In addition, the only place to weld it on an AMC car is on the sheet metal that is spot welded into a box that represents the lower chassis member if you will and not only will it be welded to a sheet metal surface, but the strength of that surface would be compromised by rust thus with all of the monkey motion induced by the two pivot points not being in line stressing the welded joint so would any impact caused by hitting bumps in the road and pot holes. Also, you would loose the Caster Adjustment on the front end. This would force you to get it right when it was welded 'cause you would never be able to adjust it again. However This concept is similar to the Light Weight Strut Rod manufactured by AM Racing in Canada http://www.amracing.com/whatwedo/manupart.html and then click on; OUR <javascript:newWindow%20('../parts/sr001/sr001.html')> STRUT ROD LIGHT WEIGHT Which appears to use something on the order of a Tie Rod end attached to a tube assembly to allow Caster adjustment. The tie Rod end is fastened on to the lower control arm which would allow the control arm to move both up and down with the movement of the tire and fore and aft with the adjustment of the castor. The other end is mounted the same way, or similar to the Heidt tubular strut rod. This has the same problem though of welding to sheet metal with no re-enforcement at the mounting points. But, if one were to use a later (1970 or newer) adjustable strut rod, mounted in rubber on the existing strut mounting assembly in the car, that piece then welded on to a tube with the other end using something on the order of tie rod end similar in fashion to the AM Racing unit you would mimic the motion of the factory design, be able to adjust caster which is needed and mount it in rubber to allow flexing which is also needed at the chassis. This would probably be a cost effective way to get around the problems Tom had with his solution and you and others are having trying to find parts and maybe come up with a marketable product or at least plans so people could build them their selves from either plans or a kit that would supply the Strut Rod end to be mounted in the chassis with a rubber bushing, a tube to be welded on to the strut rod end and a tie rod end that would be welded on to the tube and a means to mount it on to an existing hole that may exist on the lower control arm. One you mimic the factory Geometry and movement that it may be possible to go with Polyurethane bushed ends if some people thought it was important. Just a thought. John. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: http://www.amc-list.com/pipermail/amc-list/attachments/20070629/a61a0928/attachment.htm _______________________________________________ Amc-list mailing list Amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx http://www.amc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/amc-list