Re: [AMC-List] carb rebuidl help

[Ken Siroonian <KSiroonian@xxxxxxx>]

thanks tom and froank for your comments, i bought another carb kit and
will give it another go. I thought I cleaned the last one very well,
just can not figure why it overloads with gas. The fuel pump is the
original with the car, and i did not know it could over pump in the
carb. maybe I shoudl just change it. anyway, the float was new too and
is buoyant and not absorbing fuel. the filter is new. you can not test
the needle and seat with the carb with the top off as the needle seat
and float are attached to the top with a small pin. the choke opens
fine and even when I hold it fully open, the car runs like dog meat,
and the the tpipe blows lots of black soot. I can even see some fuel
that comes out the bottom of the carb. onto the base area.
any more ideas please let me know, i will work on these, regards, ken.

On December 12, 2006 Tom Jennings wrote:

> On Mon, 11 Dec 2006, Ken Siroonian wrote:
> 
> > wondering if anyone has a tip on rebuidling a 1 BBL YF CARB FOR A
76
> > PACER. I rebuilt it about 6 months ago due to engine flooding,
> > overloading with fuel, black soot out of the exhaust, engine oil
was
> > getting black fast and oil level higher due to the fuel. I rebuilt
it
> > with a new float the black fiber float- just in case. the old one
I
> > tested was fine anyway. now it is doing the same thing, albeit it
has
> > not been driven more than a few hundred miles in all that time.
she
> > uses it rarely, and the choke is coming off ok, but it just won't
run
> > right with all that fuel and the belches of black soot/smoke. any
ideas
> > what I may or may not be doing right. are the adjustments that
> > critical, I am following the amc spec book as well as the carb
rebuild
> > sheet, and the float level does not seem high or out of whack. I
have
> > not pulled the carb off the car yet, just the top. is there an
> > adjustment I can make on the car and try again before i rebuild it. 
the
> > needle and seat looked ok, though I have only done these a few
times. i
> > adjusted the idle screw ok as well. does that affect more than just 
the
> > park idle. any ideas will be apreciated. regards.
> 
> Hmm... you have a stock fuel pump? Not an aftermarket or
> electric pump?
> 
> And a good clean new quality fuel filter, plumbed before
> the carb?
> 
> The choke is off or disconnected, for testing? Turn it 4 -
> 6 or more notches LEAN, the choke plate should be open. It
> would be unpleasant to drive it that way in cold weather,
> but it will help for testing.
> 
> As a test, with the choke fully open, your foot OFF the throttle,
> cranking the engine, the carb should stay DRY. It probably
> won't start, but the carb should NOT get wet inside. If it
> does, you have somethin wrong in the carb, float stuck, sunk,
> dirt in the needle and seat, etc.
> 
> 
> Some crude but simple diagnostic tests:
> 
> With car OFF! carb assembled and on car. Put clean hose on the
> carb fuel inlet, blow into it. If the car was cranked previously,
> the bowl should be full of gas and the needle and seat should
> be CLOSED. You should NOT be able to blow into it. If you can,
> or you hear even seeping of your breath into the carb, 3 -
> 4 psi of fuel will definitely push in there, flooding it.
> 
> You can even more crudely test the needle and seat by taking the
> top off the carb, leaving the needle, set, float attached. Blow
> into the fuel inlet; with the top right side up, air should
> flow. Turn it upside down, it should stop. If it doesn't do that,
> fix it.


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