AMC-List Digest, Vol 10, Issue 6
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AMC-List Digest, Vol 10, Issue 6
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- Date: Thu, 02 Nov 2006 17:36:48 +0000
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Today's Topics:
1. steering wheel issue (Steven Fox)
2. Re: mustang suspension (Swygert, Francis G MSgt 436 CES/CECM)
3. Re: Duraspark distributor woes (258 six) (Sandwich Maker)
4. Re: Prothane = Strut bushings
(Swygert, Francis G MSgt 436 CES/CECM)
5. Re: Fwd: American Motors Specifications (Jim Blair)
6. Re: Prothane = Strut bushings (Mark Price)
7. Re: Duraspark distributor woes (258 six) (Mark Price)
8. Re: mustang suspension (Tom Jennings)
9. Re: Duraspark distributor woes (258 six) (Tom Jennings)
10. Re: Duraspark distributor woes (258 six) (msproviero@xxxxxxxxxxx)
11. Re: Duraspark distributor woes (258 six) (Tom Jennings)
12. Re: Duraspark distributor woes (258 six -- spark plugs)
(Swygert, Francis G MSgt 436 CES/CECM)
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Message: 1
Date: Thu, 2 Nov 2006 06:00:12 -0800
From: "Steven Fox" <bikerfox@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: [AMC-List] steering wheel issue
To: <amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Message-ID: <03bc01c6fe87$376984a0$4001a8c0@COMMANDCENTRAL>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
Hello All,
I'm getting my steering wheel refinished ('68 AMX) and was wondering about those three metal tabs on the steering wheel. What was their original sheen? chrome? satin? neither? Will someone please shed some light on this topic?
Thanks,
Steve
------------------------------
Message: 2
Date: Thu, 2 Nov 2006 07:58:47 -0600
From: "Swygert, Francis G MSgt 436 CES/CECM"
<Francis.Swygert3@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: [AMC-List] mustang suspension
To: <das24rules@xxxxxxxxx>, <mail@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Message-ID:
<092D8CF6635129428E9B66DC582C3B3D01A67C15@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Well, I did come on a little strong!!
You have the older strut rod style, but you can use the new style
bushings. You need to buy ONE factory style strut rod bushing from the
local parts store for a 1980 Concord (get the MOOG part if they have
it!), and ONE urethane strut rod bushing set for a 74 Javelin. The
urethane is used on the front, stock on the back. You have to trim the
urethane bushing down to the right thickness. I basically cut the "cone"
portion off, leaving a flat bushing about 1" thick. It can be cut with a
hack saw, or do like Tom J. did and chuck it in a drill press. I used a
hack saw -- it doesn't have to be really smooth, just close to the same
thickness -- a little variation won't hurt!
The reason you need the urethane bushing is strength. The rubber isn't
strong enough once cut down -- the cone shape gives it some strength
when deforming. Cut down rubber will let the washer push through. Tom
and I both found that out at close to the same time -- he has pictures
(www.wps.com, check the AMC/Rambler links) and a nice tutorial on-line.
You want to use the rubber on the back to increase flexibility. Urethane
front and back makes for a very stiff suspension.
You have one other choice, which is really better, but requires a bit of
work. I bought a pair of used Concord strut rods. Any 1970 or later AMC
will be fine -- or get some revenge on a Mustang and buy Ford strut
rods. They will work just as well (better, since you're not destroying
an AMC part... ;>). Take your original strut rods off. Cut ONE in half.
Take one of the other strut rods and cut it so you have some adjustment
for the bushing. Use the uncut original to gauge approximate length.
Since the bushing location is adjustable you have a bit of range to play
with, so accuracy isn't important for length -- just make sure you have
at least an inch of threads toward the control arm to "shorten" the rod,
and as much to lengthen. Have the halves welded together, then cut the
other rods and make another the same length as the first.
It's not hard to weld something like this IF you can weld! Grind the
ends to be welded together to a bevel, leaving a 1/8" diameter flat in
the center. The end should look like a sharpened pencil except for the
1/8" flat. Space the flat apart the thickness of your welding rod (~1/8"
if stick welding, thickness of the wire if MIG/flux core). Clamp the rod
in a piece of angle iron to keep them straight. Weld in the center on
one side, then allow to cool five minutes. Loosen clamps and rotate,
clamp, weld opposite side.
Now it depends on what kind of welder you're using. With a stick welder,
a 30-40* bevel is good. You can start using a 7018 rod to fill in (use a
6010 for the first weld), one side then the other, cleaning and allowing
to cool between. Keep it clamped in the angle iron. If using a MIG or
flux core, you do the same thing except keep the angle down to 20-30*,
just enough you can get the wire in to weld the flats. It will take a
while to fill in the material with a wire welder. Fill in slightly above
the original surface, then grind down smooth. Paint and the rod should
look stock. Using a sleeve and welding IS NOT as strong and a properly
welded rod. If you doubt your skills, take the cut and ground rods to a
welding shop. They won't have a problem. I've been driving mine over a
year, no problems at all. The weld material is actually stronger than
the rod (the first two numbers of a welding rod is the compression
strength of the filler material -- 6010 is 60,000 psi, 7018 is 70,000
psi -- the rod isn't that strong!)
If you don't want to weld there is another option. An industrial
fastener store should have large graded threaded rod connectors and
threading dies. Cut the rods and thread the ends, then screw both in
tight. The strut rod is in compression only, so this is completely safe.
I started to just use such a threaded sleeve and just the original strut
rod. Adjustment would be made by screwing in and out the sleeve. The
problem is the threads just aren't tight enough for this to be safe.
With the ends screwed tight together it's not a problem -- a little
lock-tite on the threads, or better epoxy (JB Weld, etc.) before
screwing together will fix it right up.
Thanks for the update on the MII hub. I'll have to check around as to
how the hub was made to fit. I suspect different bearings, as you
mentioned. I was thinking the offset was positive (further out), not
negative (further in)!! All I recall being mentioned was the offset was
1/2" to 3/4" different.
It's perfectly safe to space the spindle out further as long as you use
grade 8 bolts. I've had to do this before, and have the spindles spaced
out another 3/4" on my car now. You will need to use GRADED washers for
spacers as they won't crush and will be of uniform thickness. For a
large spacer use a graded nut that will slip over the bolt. I'm doing
that, and found that a 1/2" nut slides right over a 3/8" bolt. A steel
plate spacer might be better, though I've had no problems. All this
moving about WILL affect alignment some, but I've found everything works
out close enough not to cause adverse wear or steering issues. On the
tightest turns (like in a parking lot) one of my tires obviously turns
at a slightly different angle, as I get a little squealing from a tire
scrubbing on the pavement, but only on really tight turns. Car tracks
and handles beautifully, couldn't ask for much better!! Surprised more
than one person by charging off a ramp... ;> Love to do this when I'm
casually driving along and some import or big SUV is crawling my rear!!
Get into the middle of the turn and nearly floor it. The Jag axle digs
in and the car hugs the turn and shoots off the ramp, leaving mr.
tailgater way back!
If you want a better looking suspension, something like the MII is about
the only way to go. The tubular suspension lower arm that Nick Alfano is
working on should fit all cars with the strut rod suspension. If he's
using a strut rod eliminator design some work for the rear pivot will be
required on each body as the mounts are different, but that should be
easy enough to fabricate.
The older Mustang/Falcon still uses a pivoting spring seat like the
Mustang II/70+ AMC suspension. That should be useable with the older
AMCs, but the spring seat appears to be a good bit lower than the big
car original spring seat -- about 3" lower, to much to lower the car and
maintain good steering/ride characteristics (2" would be about the max,
and that's pushing it -- lowering plates would be better for more than
an inch of drop). The upper arm is designed to be mounted on a bar, but
could be removed. I have the dimensions for a MII control arm somewhere
-- that might be a better fit. Now to find them!! In either case the
upper arm would require modification for the big car spring. Converting
to a coil over shock might be the best way to go. All this gets
expensive fast!! Global West makes a tubular lower arm that would likely
work, and some strut rods with better ends. The arms are over $300 each,
plus the cost of the strut rods. A pair of coil overs is around $300,
and the upper arms are closer to $400 for the early Mustang. MII
components are more common and cheaper, but still add up fast. Is it all
worth it? Get a good gas shock, modify the AMC strut rod, and get 15%
stiffer springs and you'll have as good a handling (if not looking)
suspension on your 62 Classic. With a wire welder you can box the lower
arm for strength, but unless you plan on a lot of road racing I've found
it to not be necessary -- just adds a little weight.
Except for looks and "wow factor" there's not much reason to change the
front suspension drastically. For road or drag racing there are some
benefits. If you're set on changing the front suspension, the only kit
I've seen that would be relatively easy to modify to fit nearly any AMC
is the new strut front suspensions designed to fit the stock early
Mustangs. They consists of a new strut that fits in the spring tower,
new tubular lower control arm, spindles, hubs, brakes, etc. -- and cost
around $3K. Not bad for replacing everything. They would still need
modifying, and you'd have to be careful about the lower control arm
length, but all that would be easier to modify than spring mounts.
------------------------------
Message: 3
Date: Thu, 2 Nov 2006 09:02:41 -0500 (EST)
From: adh@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx (Sandwich Maker)
Subject: Re: [AMC-List] Duraspark distributor woes (258 six)
To: amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Message-ID: <200611021402.kA2E2fY22433@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
" From: Tom Jennings <tomj@xxxxxxx>
"
" > " Turns out I have RC12LYC Champion plugs in there. The "L"
"
" On Thu, 2 Nov 2006, Sandwich Maker wrote:
"
" > the L shouldn't matter. 12 is the heat range, and if it's a 12 it
" > should be a 12.
"
" Well the Champion data that Edelbrock parrots says it's .060"
" extended tip; why that doesn't simply translate to a higher
" heat range I don't know.
if it does translate to a higher heat range why isn't it -marked- with
a higher heat range?
my argument is that they compensate the design for the extended tip so
that a 12 remains a 12. anything else would make a hash of the
marking system.
" > " So I've mailordered RC9YC's, and will play with timing with
" > " these colder plugs when those arrive.
" >
" > this should be the significant change.
"
" Yeah, but I bet it's close. My plugs are whiteish, though not
" overheating or damaged (10K miles or so).
"
" http://wps.com/temp/plug1.jpg
" http://wps.com/temp/plug2.jpg
yup. my plug reading skills are a little rusty but they look pretty
good.
________________________________________________________________________
Andrew Hay the genius nature
internet rambler is to see what all have seen
adh@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx and think what none thought
------------------------------
Message: 4
Date: Thu, 2 Nov 2006 08:31:09 -0600
From: "Swygert, Francis G MSgt 436 CES/CECM"
<Francis.Swygert3@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: [AMC-List] Prothane = Strut bushings
To: <mail@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Message-ID:
<092D8CF6635129428E9B66DC582C3B3D01A67C4F@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
> Well, I just searched on the early Strut bushings and found that
Prothan now
makes them!
>
> AMC
> 62-64 AMBASSADOR FT. STRUT ROD BUSHING KIT, 5/8" #1-1207
>
> Their site also says the rear track bar bushings for 63-66 are coming
soon!
------------------------------
I'm interested in seeing if this is a one-piece replacement unit or a
new two piece unit designed to replace the one piece. Either way will be
fine! Urethane is still a bit hard for this application -- you can feel
every hard bump right under your feet!!
------------------------------
Message: 5
Date: Thu, 02 Nov 2006 07:48:35 -0800
From: "Jim Blair" <carnuck@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: [AMC-List] Fwd: American Motors Specifications
To: mail@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Message-ID: <BAY114-F406EBA4EB3886BEA24F3EACFF0@xxxxxxx>
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed
A: Actually, if you check any current AMC numbers to Mopar numbers, you need
to add a J in front of the OEM part number (AFAIK, they only saved the Jeep
numbers when they bought out AMC)
From: "Swygert, Francis G MSgt 436 CES/CECM"
<Francis.Swygert3@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: [AMC-List] Fwd: American Motors Specifications
To: <amclist2006@xxxxxxx>, <mail@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Message-ID:
<092D8CF6635129428E9B66DC582C3B3D01A38C96@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Wolfgang, listers, I sent Laura a nice long letter. There are no
lists
that she'd like to see, but I did tell her a bit about parts
interchange
and AMC's outsourcing. Most of the Stant parts are pretty
generic, like
radiator caps and thermostats. Others, like 70s and 80s emission
parts,
are GM sourced and should cross reference. Hopefully that will
help. If
they are looking to cross reference to Chrysler parts they are
definitely barking up the wrong tree! I did tell her that if
they needed
anyone to try a part on something I could hook her up with
almost any
year/model AMC owner. If that happens I'll post something to the
list
with the desired model/year first.
---------------------------------
>From: lryckman@xxxxxxxxxxxx (Laura Ryckman)
>Date: 30. Oktober 2006 15:14:45 MEZ
>Subject: American Motors Specifications
>
>email: lryckman@xxxxxxxxxxxx
>
>subject: American Motors Specifications
>
>realname: Laura Ryckman
>
>text: Good morning,
>I am with Stant Manufacturing in Connersville, Indiana. We are
an
>automotive company suppling fuel, oil, and raditaor caps, fuel
>system valves, thermostats, canisters, and several other
automotive
>products. Our company has American Motors specifications
called out
>on our prints. Since American Motors was purchased by
Chrysler, do
>you know of a conversion list from American Motors
specifications
>to Chrysler specifications? If you do not know, do you have
>contact information of someone that could assist me with this?
>Thank you so much for your time.
>Laura Ryckman
_________________________________________________________________
Use your PC to make calls at very low rates
https://voiceoam.pcs.v2s.live.com/partnerredirect.aspx
------------------------------
Message: 6
Date: Thu, 2 Nov 2006 7:56:16 -0800
From: Mark Price <markprice242@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: [AMC-List] Prothane = Strut bushings
To: amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Cc: "Swygert, Francis G MSgt 436 CES/CECM"
<Francis.Swygert3@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Message-ID: <15763592.1162482976123.JavaMail.root@web22>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8
I know they are hard and will add vibration, but at least they are available!
Up till now you guys were out in the cold as far as replacing these things went.
The fabricaters of us can always get something put together. The guy that just wanst to drive had a problem!
Yesterday I was looking at Circle track misc stuff and wondering how hard it would be to take the front section of th eearly strut and turn it, then thread it, keeping it as large as possible. You could then use a piece of trailing arm to join it to a piece of late model strut to use that bushing. If you could end up witha 3/4" thread on the strut pieces it would still be plenty beefy.
Composition would be Lower arm-Old style strut-Threaded Trailing arm-New style strut. You could also just use a threaded stock or make up the rear sections.
My only interest in this would be for the guys that want to avoid using rod ends or Poly. It's very nice that Prothane noticed the need and stepped up to the plate!
I know that soft poly is available, I wonder if it would be possible to have them make up soft poly. The other thing of note is that the earlybushings a pretty thin anyway, there may not be a whole lot of change between the two!
On the same subject when did the changeover really take place? My brother told me he had troubles getting his struts together as he could not get the right bushings. His is a 65 Marlin. I haven't looked under my 65's to see what they look like. My brothers could be a changeover or???
Mark Price
markprice242ATadelphia.net
Morgantown, WV
---- "Swygert wrote:
> > Well, I just searched on the early Strut bushings and found that
> Prothan now
> makes them!
> >
> > AMC
> > 62-64 AMBASSADOR FT. STRUT ROD BUSHING KIT, 5/8" #1-1207
> >
> > Their site also says the rear track bar bushings for 63-66 are coming
> soon!
> ------------------------------
>
> I'm interested in seeing if this is a one-piece replacement unit or a
> new two piece unit designed to replace the one piece. Either way will be
> fine! Urethane is still a bit hard for this application -- you can feel
> every hard bump right under your feet!!
>
> _______________________________________________
> AMC-List mailing list
> AMC-List@xxxxxxxxxxxx
> http://www.amc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/amc-list
>
> or go to http://www.amc-list.com
------------------------------
Message: 7
Date: Thu, 2 Nov 2006 8:18:56 -0800
From: Mark Price <markprice242@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: [AMC-List] Duraspark distributor woes (258 six)
To: amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Message-ID: <4758434.1162484336327.JavaMail.root@web22>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8
It's the same heat range plug in relationship to other extended heat range plugs.
With the extended tip it will run a little hotter as the path to disapate heat into the head is longer. You could side gap them :] It would open the spark to the chamber.
I've experienced smoother idle on every engine I've put Splitfire, or multi tip plugs in. I've not seen any change in MPG or power long term, But the increase in idle quality is good enough for me to pay the money! I like the sound of a cam, but not an engine miss at idle.
--
Mark Price
markprice242ATadelphia.net
Morgantown, WV
---- Sandwich Maker <adh@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
> " From: Tom Jennings <tomj@xxxxxxx>
> "
> " > " Turns out I have RC12LYC Champion plugs in there. The "L"
> "
> " On Thu, 2 Nov 2006, Sandwich Maker wrote:
> "
> " > the L shouldn't matter. 12 is the heat range, and if it's a 12 it
> " > should be a 12.
> "
> " Well the Champion data that Edelbrock parrots says it's .060"
> " extended tip; why that doesn't simply translate to a higher
> " heat range I don't know.
>
> if it does translate to a higher heat range why isn't it -marked- with
> a higher heat range?
>
> my argument is that they compensate the design for the extended tip so
> that a 12 remains a 12. anything else would make a hash of the
> marking system.
>
> " > " So I've mailordered RC9YC's, and will play with timing with
> " > " these colder plugs when those arrive.
> " >
> " > this should be the significant change.
> "
> " Yeah, but I bet it's close. My plugs are whiteish, though not
> " overheating or damaged (10K miles or so).
> "
> " http://wps.com/temp/plug1.jpg
> " http://wps.com/temp/plug2.jpg
>
> yup. my plug reading skills are a little rusty but they look pretty
> good.
> ________________________________________________________________________
> Andrew Hay the genius nature
> internet rambler is to see what all have seen
> adh@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx and think what none thought
> _______________________________________________
> AMC-List mailing list
> AMC-List@xxxxxxxxxxxx
> http://www.amc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/amc-list
>
> or go to http://www.amc-list.com
------------------------------
Message: 8
Date: Thu, 2 Nov 2006 08:50:03 -0800 (PST)
From: Tom Jennings <tomj@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: [AMC-List] mustang suspension
To: amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.64.0611020848090.4618@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII
On Thu, 2 Nov 2006, Swygert, Francis G MSgt 436 CES/CECM wrote:
> If you don't want to weld there is another option. An industrial
> fastener store should have large graded threaded rod connectors and
> threading dies. Cut the rods and thread the ends, then screw both in
> tight. The strut rod is in compression only, so this is completely safe.
> I started to just use such a threaded sleeve and just the original strut
The problem with this is that the older strut rods are not
made from round stock; they appear to be stampings or forgings,
and are tapered, broad at the bushing end, which has a swaged
stop for the washer (that's the non-adjustable part).
------------------------------
Message: 9
Date: Thu, 2 Nov 2006 08:51:48 -0800 (PST)
From: Tom Jennings <tomj@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: [AMC-List] Duraspark distributor woes (258 six)
To: amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.64.0611020850280.4618@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII
On Thu, 2 Nov 2006, Sandwich Maker wrote:
> if it does translate to a higher heat range why isn't it -marked- with
> a higher heat range?
>
> my argument is that they compensate the design for the extended tip so
> that a 12 remains a 12. anything else would make a hash of the
> marking system.
Oh that's what I assume too. The L vs. non-L seems a bit subtle,
I imagine in instances where for some reason you need the tip
pokin deeper into the combustion chamber but don't want hotter.
------------------------------
Message: 10
Date: Thu, 02 Nov 2006 16:55:59 +0000
From: msproviero@xxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: [AMC-List] Duraspark distributor woes (258 six)
To: amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Message-ID:
<110220061655.18023.454A231F0009D58E000046672207300033019D0A0790019D9F9C03@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Content-Type: text/plain
Funny that the discussion when this direction. This is exactly what I did with the plugs on my Ram's V10. I switched to the long-nose plug design used in Vipers and there was a difference. In reading up on this on Ram Owner's Forums, the theory was that moving the point of initial combustion closer to the top of the cylinder had an effect similar to advancing the timing. I'm was pleased with the results.
-Spro
-------------- Original message --------------
From: Tom Jennings <tomj@xxxxxxx>
> Oh that's what I assume too. The L vs. non-L seems a bit subtle,
> I imagine in instances where for some reason you need the tip
> pokin deeper into the combustion chamber but don't want hotter.
>
> _______________________________________________
> AMC-List mailing list
> AMC-List@xxxxxxxxxxxx
> http://www.amc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/amc-list
>
> or go to http://www.amc-list.com
------------------------------
Message: 11
Date: Thu, 2 Nov 2006 09:13:51 -0800 (PST)
From: Tom Jennings <tomj@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: [AMC-List] Duraspark distributor woes (258 six)
To: amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.64.0611020911590.4618@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII
On Thu, 2 Nov 2006, msproviero@xxxxxxxxxxx wrote:
> Funny that the discussion when this direction. This is exactly
> what I did with the plugs on my Ram's V10. I switched to the
> long-nose plug design used in Vipers and there was a difference.
> In reading up on this on Ram Owner's Forums, the theory was
> that moving the point of initial combustion closer to the top
> of the cylinder had an effect similar to advancing the timing.
> I'm was pleased with the results.
I saw those Dodge pages also! If it effectively "advances"
ignition, plus too hot, that could make a big difference.
I'm taking notes, and will write it all up. It's a stock 83 258
so it should be applicable to many.
------------------------------
Message: 12
Date: Thu, 2 Nov 2006 11:34:31 -0600
From: "Swygert, Francis G MSgt 436 CES/CECM"
<Francis.Swygert3@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: [AMC-List] Duraspark distributor woes (258 six -- spark
plugs)
To: <adh@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>, <mail@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Message-ID:
<092D8CF6635129428E9B66DC582C3B3D01A67DA8@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Andrew, remember the comments on the Strokers list about extended tip
plugs? The Renix 4.0L used a standard plug and the later HO models used
an extended tip. The standard plug seemed to work better. I think both
were the same heat range. My thinking is that the extended tip gets
physically hotter since it's down in the combustion chamber further than
a normal tip and contributes to detonation (pinging). The standard tip
is more shielded and therefore doesn't get so hot that it causes
pinging. Just my ideas on the subject...
I agree, the heat range should be the same (a 12 is a 12...), but that's
the heat range the plug is designed to run at under the conditions it
was designed for. In Tom's case it would make a difference if the tip is
further in the chamber than it was designed to be. For the stroked 4.0L
it's just a matter of the more shielded tip working better in the new
environment (raised compression, different piston dish or quench
height).
------------------------------------
" > the L shouldn't matter. 12 is the heat range, and if it's a 12 it
" > should be a 12.
"
" Well the Champion data that Edelbrock parrots says it's .060"
" extended tip; why that doesn't simply translate to a higher
" heat range I don't know.
if it does translate to a higher heat range why isn't it -marked- with
a higher heat range?
my argument is that they compensate the design for the extended tip so
that a 12 remains a 12. anything else would make a hash of the
marking system.
" > " So I've mailordered RC9YC's, and will play with timing with
" > " these colder plugs when those arrive.
" >
" > this should be the significant change.
------------------------------
_______________________________________________
AMC-List mailing list
AMC-List@xxxxxxxxxxxx
http://www.amc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/amc-list
End of AMC-List Digest, Vol 10, Issue 6
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