AMC-List Digest, Vol 5, Issue 36
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AMC-List Digest, Vol 5, Issue 36
- From: amc-list-request@xxxxxxx
- Date: Fri, 16 Jun 2006 16:41:27 +0000
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Today's Topics:
1. Re: my 62 classic project/rear axle (Mark Price)
2. Re: rear end wanted (Mark Price)
3. Re: 3 sp transmission (Sandwich Maker)
4. Re: 3 sp transmission wanted (Mark Price)
5. Re: rear end wanted (Sandwich Maker)
6. Re: Report from the desert (Michael Bailey)
7. Re: my 62 classic project (Sandwich Maker)
8. Re: [strokers] Transmission Swap [Auto to 5spd] (Sandwich Maker)
9. Re: 3 sp transmission wanted (Jim Blair)
10. Re: rear end wanted (Jim Blair)
11. Re: rear end wanted (msproviero@xxxxxxxxxxx)
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Message: 1
Date: Fri, 16 Jun 2006 7:17:10 -0700
From: Mark Price <markprice242@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: [AMC-List] my 62 classic project/rear axle
To: amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Cc: francis.swygert@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Message-ID:
<12174004.1150467430839.JavaMail.root@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8
I'm not real sure why you would retro fit the AMC20 to anything unless you need to buy axles anyway. To me it seems a waste to start with a rearend that uses the two piece axles. Granted they hold up fairly well, but we've all seen them spin from time to time for no apparant reason. [Yes I know,Loosen and retorque nuts etc;] I'd look elsewhere for a rearend unless one piece axles are in the bargain. Maybe a 80's Grand Cherokee and drill to the 5 bolt pattern. I almost had a 87 or 88 Dana 44 from one for free, but the guy sold the whole Jeep before he parted it out. :[
--
Mark Price
markprice242ATadelphia.net
Morgantown, WV
---- francis.swygert@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx wrote:
> IIRC the AMC 20 from even a big car will fit (67-78 Matador, etc.). It's
> actually about 2" wider, but deeper offset tires will work fine. New
> model Mustang wheels have a deep offset. Just get longer grade 8 bolts
> for the spindles and space them out about another inch. I used large
> grade 8 nuts that slipped over the bolts for spacers on the front of
> mine, and that was just right (I think they are 1/2" nuts). A Javelin
> axle will be about the right width for stock wheels.
>
> I'm writing an article about putting the rack and pinion in for the next
> AIM. I really don't recommend it. It's a lot of work and there really
> isn't any gain. It's much easier to put a modern style power steering
> box in, and you can get a GM quick ratio box for about the same price as
> a rack and pinion, without all the work.
> _______________________________________________
> AMC-List mailing list
> AMC-List@xxxxxxxxxxxx
> http://www.amc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/amc-list
>
> or go to http://www.amc-list.com
------------------------------
Message: 2
Date: Fri, 16 Jun 2006 7:25:34 -0700
From: Mark Price <markprice242@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: [AMC-List] rear end wanted
To: amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Message-ID:
<31415092.1150467934666.JavaMail.root@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8
--
Mark Price
markprice242ATadelphia.net
Morgantown, WV
Western Pa is not far from here depending on north or south area of the state. I did know a yard that had several early 70's CJ narrow tracks, I think they all had the Danas in them though, was the 44 that early? I wonder what they would have been geared like? I don't know if they still have them or if they crushed them. The guy was talking of crushing several years ago, but I haven't been back since then to check. I should look into it for my American, I'd like to get around a 3:55 gear in mine for when I move to the 2:95 geared T-5.
---- Sandwich Maker <adh@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
> " From: "Eddie Stakes" <eddiestakes@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> "
> " Looking for a Model 20 rear end for a 67-69 Rambler American. Located in
> " Western Pennsylvania. Thanks Eddie. James Gurall jimjam186@xxxxxxx
> " ================================
> " anyone with a rear end for sale or can give him tips on what might
> " interchange please feel free to comment and thanks to all who might.
>
> i've heard that a '76-'82? ['narrow track'] cj amc20 is the same or
> close. of course you need one with a centered diff, and you need to
> change the jeep 5x5.5" hubs for car 5x4.5" ones. to that end you'd
> want one with 10" brakes; you can just slip late-'70s 10" car drums
> on after the hub swap.
>
> this all assumes the cj rear -is- a good match.
>
> another possibility if you're not worried about originality, is a
> '73-6 dart v8/disk 8.25" rear. width is very close to the american,
> disk brake darts have a 4.5" bolt circle [lh thd one side though], and
> the 8.25 was considered strong enough for 318s.
> ________________________________________________________________________
> Andrew Hay the genius nature
> internet rambler is to see what all have seen
> adh@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx and think what none thought
> _______________________________________________
> AMC-List mailing list
> AMC-List@xxxxxxxxxxxx
> http://www.amc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/amc-list
>
> or go to http://www.amc-list.com
------------------------------
Message: 3
Date: Fri, 16 Jun 2006 10:36:28 -0400 (EDT)
From: adh@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx (Sandwich Maker)
Subject: Re: [AMC-List] 3 sp transmission
To: amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Message-ID: <200606161436.k5GEaS219068@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
" From: <francis.swygert@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
"
" The torque tube mount doesn't matter. The seal and output shaft is the
" same, torque tube or open driveline. You just have a big square flange
" on the back of the trans since it's made onto the tailshaft. On the OD,
" the flange comes off, but it's still holds the seal. Easy to swap to an
" open drive tailshaft though -- output shaft length is the same. I think
" it is for non-OD models also, that reduced parts inventory, but I can't
" be sure between years.
amc didn't always do what seems sensible from the outside...
" If this is a six cylinder model trans, it will bolt to the multi-pattern
" 77-80 bell. Otherwise it needs a T-10 bell. I think it's a different
" pattern than the T-15 used 67 and later. Andrew Hay might know for
" sure...
afaik --
the t-96 and -car- t-14 share pattern; short nose
the t-86/87/90, -jeep- t-14, and t-15 share pattern; long nose
the t-85/89 has a very t-10-like pattern but may not be identical
this -may- also correspond to the pre-'64 ford pattern; it
looks very similar and ford used both trannies.
the '66-'74 t-10 bell also has a t-15 pattern; the top two bolts are
shared. i'd expect it's in a lot of early-'70s cjs.
there were rare pre-'72 h/d 6 bells with the t-86/t-15 pattern.
the t-14 was used with 6 and v8 as late as '76. some time about '73
the rear spline was changed from 10 like the t-96 to 23[?] like the
tf904, but length was the same.
i have the [afaik] even rarer 'mexican' '64-'71 6 t-10 bell. it
doesn't look anything like the v8 piece; although deep it has a broad
back face with ears that match the gm bolt pattern, in addition to the
amc t-10...
________________________________________________________________________
Andrew Hay the genius nature
internet rambler is to see what all have seen
adh@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx and think what none thought
------------------------------
Message: 4
Date: Fri, 16 Jun 2006 7:39:35 -0700
From: Mark Price <markprice242@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: [AMC-List] 3 sp transmission wanted
To: amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Cc: Jim Boone <fljab@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Message-ID:
<7665814.1150468775295.JavaMail.root@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8
Well, whatever you do when you get it running, If want to try out towing, you could haul that 65 up to me :]
--
Mark Price
markprice242ATadelphia.net
Morgantown, WV
---- Jim Boone <fljab@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
> >Date: Thu, 15 Jun 2006 5:51:44 -0700
> >From: Mark Price <markprice242@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
> >Subject: Re: [AMC-List] 3 sp transmission wanted
> >For towing, you'd be hard pressed to beat the 727, Go with a low gear set
> >for extra grunt if your rebuilding it IIRC they are not that expensive.
> >That way you can keep Higher gears in the axle and still get the rig
> >rolling. For top of the line pulling and cruising throw in a Gear vendors
> >overdrive! then you have a full 6 speed automatic! of course your wallet
> >will be $2500-$3000 lighter by the time you buy the controller and
> >everything."
>
> I agree that using/rebuilding the 727 I already have would be a wise choice.
> Just thought I'd ask about available 3 speeds, ya never know!
>
> Andrew's comments in a later post about using a beefed-up 998 would work as
> well, and is worth looking into. I don't intend to haul a trailer full of
> bricks, just want the capability to take the American on a trailer to car
> shows behind the wagon.
>
> I also don't really want a floor shift if I can avoid it. The idea of doing
> a 4 sp on the column like your friend's Cheby truck is interesting, never
> thought of that! But, I just sold a good T10 combo as luck would have it.
>
> Something I do have, that I had intended to get rid of, is one of the "fake
> toploaders". These were 4 speeds, but 4th was an OD, and were produced in
> the late 70's. Mine has a "D7" tailshaft code, which is '77 in fordspeak,
> and was built in '77 or '78 from what I can find out. These supposedly
> don't have alot of torque capability - they weren't built for performance -
> but they might have sufficient strength for what I want, not sure. I
> haven't actually found any accurate torque ratings for them.
>
> The Gear Vendor's OD would be ideal behind the 727, but I think if I was to
> spend that kind of money, I could do things cheaper, er, I mean, more cost
> effective, by buying a well-built 700R4 and install using an adapter from
> Advance Adapters, or buy one used as they are out there in the Jeep
> community. I haven't looked in awhile, but I think you can buy the R4's
> already built from TCI or the like for ~$1500 or so.
>
> I do have access to a free 200R4 that came out of a SS Monte Carlo - like an
> early-mid '80's car. These supposedly were the good ones. Not sure what it
> would take to make it worthy for my purposes.
>
> I think this just keeps putting me back to the 727 sitting there quietly
> underneath one of my workbenches...
>
> Jim Boone
> Mims, FL
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> AMC-List mailing list
> AMC-List@xxxxxxxxxxxx
> http://www.amc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/amc-list
>
> or go to http://www.amc-list.com
------------------------------
Message: 5
Date: Fri, 16 Jun 2006 10:52:03 -0400 (EDT)
From: adh@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx (Sandwich Maker)
Subject: Re: [AMC-List] rear end wanted
To: amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Message-ID: <200606161452.k5GEq3W19174@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
" From: Mark Price <markprice242@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
"
" I did know a yard that had several early 70's CJ narrow tracks, I
" think they all had the Danas in them though, was the 44 that early?
it goes back to the '50s at least. the jag xk rear uses a spicer 44
chuck...
cjs used d44s in the rear almost from the beginning. they may be too
narrow until the '76 redesign.
" I wonder what they would have been geared like?
5.38 in 4cyl to 3.73 [iirc] with sixes.
" I should look into it for my American, I'd like to get around a 3:55
" gear in mine for when I move to the 2:95 geared T-5.
i still think a dart 8.25" would be sweet. i -know- the dimensions
are practically the same as the american. you'd have to pull the
axles to put 3.55s in anyway, so just take the axle with the lh studs
and have them replaced with rh ones.
jeep has used the axle since the early '90s; in '95 the axle shafts
changed from 27 to 29 splines. std. gears are 3.55... speculation:
the jeep shafts could easily be shortened and resplined, and they and
the 3.55 chuck could be slid into a dart housing.
________________________________________________________________________
Andrew Hay the genius nature
internet rambler is to see what all have seen
adh@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx and think what none thought
------------------------------
Message: 6
Date: Fri, 16 Jun 2006 07:58:11 -0700 (PDT)
From: Michael Bailey <route66rambler@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: [AMC-List] Report from the desert
To: amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Message-ID: <20060616145811.2155.qmail@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 14 Jun 2006
From: eddie walker <moparedwalker@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: [AMC-List] report from the desert
...Sure sounds like a timing chain broke....
-----> This situation DOES sound like a timing chain
issue, maybe even a valve strike on a piston. I
pulled the drivetrain(the only real way to get at
either the engine or trans on these pre-77 Gremlins).
After removing the belts, the water pump turned
freely. Engine still wouldn't rotate. Hmmm. Checked
the alternator, rotates freely. Engine still wouldnt'
rotate. Hmmm. No antifreeze in oil. No oil in
antifreeze. When I pulled the starter, it was VERY
difficult to remove. As I finally pulled it free, I
detected a slight rotation of the crank. HMMM? Yes,
the starter itself had frozen, with the drive gear in
the extended position. Upon further inspection, it
appears that one of the magnets on the casing has come
loose and jammed, producing a lot of heat, as there is
severe bearing failure on both ends of the starter
shaft. The starter case is even ovalized
slightly(about .040 across the diameter). NOW the
engine rotates just fine. Pulled the valve cover and
had a look at the rockers while rotating it. Checked
the distributor, everything seems to still be in time.
Incredibly, no damage to the teeth on the flexplate.
So I could just call it one very difficult and
time-consuming starter replacement. But the miss I
mentioned still concerns me, and there is quite a
pronounced tick(almost a knock) coming from the lifter
galley at #3 cylinder. So I have lined up Molly's
258, the Jeep 258, and the extra '76 232 side by side.
Last night I ordered a Comp Cams towing cam and
lifters, a Cloyes true-roller timing set, new hardened
pushrods, guide plates, and scored a set of steel
hydraulic roller rockers off of a friend. Once I have
all the heads off I'll make a decision on replacement.
There's a place in Phoenix called Bill's Cylinder
Heads that my Dad and I have used for over 30 years
that does excellent work and offers rebuilt AMC I-6
heads for 99$. The parts should be in by Saturday, so
with any luck Project Mollyfloggin' should be up by
Monday, and Molly can go back to irritating the clones
in traffic. Oh, yeah, after all the cam stuff and
associated doo dads like thermostat housing,
thermostat and various gaskets and seals, I forgot to
buy a starter. What a moron.
mike
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
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------------------------------
Message: 7
Date: Fri, 16 Jun 2006 11:03:18 -0400 (EDT)
From: adh@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx (Sandwich Maker)
Subject: Re: [AMC-List] my 62 classic project
To: amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Message-ID: <200606161503.k5GF3Ic19253@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
" From: <francis.swygert@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
"
" IIRC the AMC 20 from even a big car will fit (67-78 Matador, etc.). It's
" actually about 2" wider, but deeper offset tires will work fine. New
" model Mustang wheels have a deep offset. Just get longer grade 8 bolts
" for the spindles and space them out about another inch. I used large
" grade 8 nuts that slipped over the bolts for spacers on the front of
" mine, and that was just right (I think they are 1/2" nuts). A Javelin
" axle will be about the right width for stock wheels.
'68-'70 amx/jav use the same axles as hornet/grem/etc; 56.6-57" track.
'71-4 jav are 60", like '69-up big cars. '67-8 big are 58.5". '66
big are 57.5".
" I'm writing an article about putting the rack and pinion in for the next
" AIM. I really don't recommend it. It's a lot of work and there really
" isn't any gain. It's much easier to put a modern style power steering
" box in, and you can get a GM quick ratio box for about the same price as
" a rack and pinion, without all the work.
i agree. rack and pinion has packaging advantages and is probably
simpler [read: cheaper], but it isn't inherently better than roller
nut and sector, and after all these years the gm saginaw is very
tunable for feel and effort as well as ratio. and it bolts in.
i've driven for the past several years with 16:1 manual steering from
an amx in my '68 american. i can't imagine what r&p could possibly
gain me over it.
________________________________________________________________________
Andrew Hay the genius nature
internet rambler is to see what all have seen
adh@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx and think what none thought
------------------------------
Message: 8
Date: Fri, 16 Jun 2006 11:18:58 -0400 (EDT)
From: adh@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx (Sandwich Maker)
Subject: Re: [AMC-List] [strokers] Transmission Swap [Auto to 5spd]
To: strokers@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Cc: amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Message-ID: <200606161518.k5GFIwV19436@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
" From: timothy leahy <tjleahy69@xxxxxxxxx>
"
"
" My ZJ has the 42re and the tranny controler is in the side pannel,
" but the controler is linked to the ECU. It helps with controling the
" idle at stops ect.
that sounds like an output from the tcu to the ecu, something that
could be left hanging in a swap to an older car. it would also be
easy enough to rig a solenoid to trigger on this and bump the idle
stop.
________________________________________________________________________
Andrew Hay the genius nature
internet rambler is to see what all have seen
adh@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx and think what none thought
------------------------------
Message: 9
Date: Fri, 16 Jun 2006 09:24:40 -0700
From: "Jim Blair" <carnuck@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: [AMC-List] 3 sp transmission wanted
To: amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Message-ID: <BAY114-F3994A7DF8BE47DD5E15CCBAC830@xxxxxxx>
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed
A: I had to pass on a Gear Vendors O/D last year for a TH400 (would've
worked nice in my '73 J4000!) but there are other alternatives. I have a
42RE from a '95 Grand Cherokee that I am going to try to graft the valvebody
from an '88 to '92 Mopar O/D auto into. I like the gearing and coupled with
a billet converter (I believe it's the same as 999) it should work well in
my old truck to give the 304 an O/D. After 3 years, it's finally time to O/H
the Motorcraft carb (I'm pretty sure the power valve finally died after
backfiring it so many times to "clear it's throat") I use an AMC base
gasket, but use a '70 Ford P/U 390 2bbl O/H kit (because mine is a 2100)
I bought a kit 2 years ago for the 2150 and all I could use was the
accelerator pump gasket and base gasket. Power valve (2 stage) wouldn't fit
under the thin cover so it's sitting on my bench of parts to flog off soon.
(that pile is getting HUUUUGE! I'll be emptying the van out on sunday I
hope. Depends how I feel after my ex-ma-in-law's funeral and the drive back
from Canada. I'd rather take the Comanche but the wife insists on taking the
Stuperoo that recently cost us $2500 for a trans)
Anyways, I digress (don't I always?) I figured I'd mention the above
trans, and also if someone is looking for an upgraded drivetrain, consider
an AMC 4 cyl from an '84 to '88 (or newer for multiport EFI) from an XJ or
MJ (maybe YJ too?) They came with either crappy carb (which can easily be
swapped for a Weber) or Renix TBI late '86 to '88. There are a number of
trans options for them. You can run any trans that was behind a RWD GM 2.8
(not sure on the pattern of the last RWD Caddies) with the right flexplate.
I have a Jeep 904 lockup from one with EFI (that I bought as a core for $150
along with the 4 cyl flexplate with TBI ring gear, then my project Rambler
went away)
GM had a 700R4 in the S10 pickups with the 2.8L as well. The easiest 5
speed to find is the AX-5 from a 2WD Comanche (lots of guys on the MJ list
converting to 4x4) but you can even upgrade that if you can find a Dodge
Dakota with AMC 4 cyl and 5 speed as they are supposed to be all AX-15
(which is strong enough for a stroked AMC 6)
I had to reread the post to remember why I originally replied, and it was
the 4 speed on a column. I did that trick with my '66 Fairlane I had @ Y2K
and used a Jeep Transfercase low range cable to operate reverse. (that cable
is now in my '73 J4000)
The thing I didn't like about the 727 was the stock gearing of 1st and
2nd (too high) but there are aftermarket gearsets to drop them to the same
as 904/999 or lower. (run a medium stall converter with high lockup kit and
it'll feel like an O/D. That's what is slated for my J4000 when the TH400
wears out completely or I have my '84 J10 finished or I just decide it's
finally time!)
From: "Jim Boone" <fljab@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: [AMC-List] 3 sp transmission wanted
To: amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Message-ID: <BAY116-F2932B17001A2E7E27A48EAC830@xxxxxxx>
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed
>Date: Thu, 15 Jun 2006 5:51:44 -0700
>From: Mark Price <markprice242@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
>Subject: Re: [AMC-List] 3 sp transmission wanted
>For towing, you'd be hard pressed to beat the 727, Go with a
low gear set
>for extra grunt if your rebuilding it IIRC they are not that
expensive.
>That way you can keep Higher gears in the axle and still get
the rig
>rolling. For top of the line pulling and cruising throw in a
Gear vendors
>overdrive! then you have a full 6 speed automatic! of course
your wallet
>will be $2500-$3000 lighter by the time you buy the controller
and
>everything."
I agree that using/rebuilding the 727 I already have would be a
wise choice.
Just thought I'd ask about available 3 speeds, ya never know!
Andrew's comments in a later post about using a beefed-up 998
would work as
well, and is worth looking into. I don't intend to haul a
trailer full of
bricks, just want the capability to take the American on a
trailer to car
shows behind the wagon.
I also don't really want a floor shift if I can avoid it. The
idea of doing
a 4 sp on the column like your friend's Cheby truck is
interesting, never
thought of that! But, I just sold a good T10 combo as luck
would have it.
Something I do have, that I had intended to get rid of, is one
of the "fake
toploaders". These were 4 speeds, but 4th was an OD, and were
produced in
the late 70's. Mine has a "D7" tailshaft code, which is '77 in
fordspeak,
and was built in '77 or '78 from what I can find out. These
supposedly
don't have alot of torque capability - they weren't built for
performance -
but they might have sufficient strength for what I want, not
sure. I
haven't actually found any accurate torque ratings for them.
The Gear Vendor's OD would be ideal behind the 727, but I think
if I was to
spend that kind of money, I could do things cheaper, er, I mean,
more cost
effective, by buying a well-built 700R4 and install using an
adapter from
Advance Adapters, or buy one used as they are out there in the
Jeep
community. I haven't looked in awhile, but I think you can buy
the R4's
already built from TCI or the like for ~$1500 or so.
I do have access to a free 200R4 that came out of a SS Monte
Carlo - like an
early-mid '80's car. These supposedly were the good ones. Not
sure what it
would take to make it worthy for my purposes.
I think this just keeps putting me back to the 727 sitting there
quietly
underneath one of my workbenches...
Jim Boone
Mims, FL
--
_________________________________________________________________
Don?t just search. Find. Check out the new MSN Search!
http://search.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200636ave/direct/01/
------------------------------
Message: 10
Date: Fri, 16 Jun 2006 09:29:18 -0700
From: "Jim Blair" <carnuck@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: [AMC-List] rear end wanted
To: amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Message-ID: <BAY114-F13F665304275D63BAE1A48AC830@xxxxxxx>
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed
A: DIstance is always such a pain! I have a M20 from a NT (AFAIK) CJ with
3.31 gears (and I have one from a Full Size Jeep too) for $50.
From: adh@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx (Sandwich Maker)
Subject: Re: [AMC-List] rear end wanted
To: Jimjam186@xxxxxxx, mail@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Message-ID: <200606160406.k5G46Kw17293@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
" From: "Eddie Stakes" <eddiestakes@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
"
" Looking for a Model 20 rear end for a 67-69 Rambler American.
Located in
" Western Pennsylvania. Thanks Eddie. James Gurall
jimjam186@xxxxxxx
" ================================
" anyone with a rear end for sale or can give him tips on what
might
" interchange please feel free to comment and thanks to all who
might.
i've heard that a '76-'82? ['narrow track'] cj amc20 is the same
or
close. of course you need one with a centered diff, and you
need to
change the jeep 5x5.5" hubs for car 5x4.5" ones. to that end
you'd
want one with 10" brakes; you can just slip late-'70s 10" car
drums
on after the hub swap.
this all assumes the cj rear -is- a good match.
another possibility if you're not worried about originality, is
a
'73-6 dart v8/disk 8.25" rear. width is very close to the
american,
disk brake darts have a 4.5" bolt circle [lh thd one side
though], and
the 8.25 was considered strong enough for 318s.
________________________________________________________________________
Andrew Hay the genius nature
internet rambler is to see what all
have seen
adh@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx and think what none
thought
_________________________________________________________________
Express yourself instantly with MSN Messenger! Download today - it's FREE!
http://messenger.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200471ave/direct/01/
------------------------------
Message: 11
Date: Fri, 16 Jun 2006 16:41:21 +0000
From: msproviero@xxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: [AMC-List] rear end wanted
To: amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx
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<061620061641.10899.4492DF30000CD93E00002A932206998499019D0A0790019D9F9C03@xxxxxxxxxxx>
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Or a Ford 8.8 from an Exploder. 5x4.5, discs, and a parking brake. Width is narrower then a stock XJ rear, so that probably puts it at or inside a WT CJ, but maybe not as narrow as a NT.
-Spro
> another possibility if you're not worried about originality, is
> a
> '73-6 dart v8/disk 8.25" rear. width is very close to the
> american,
> disk brake darts have a 4.5" bolt circle [lh thd one side
> though], and
> the 8.25 was considered strong enough for 318s.
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