I remember you and I going over the poly/rubber bushing combo now! I forget which of us came up with the idea first (not that it matters).
I recall also we conversed about this... and no longer remember who thought what :-)
I don't have a lathe, unfortunately (yet) just a small vertical mill.
I'm pretty confident hacking up all sorts of things, including suspension parts, but a few items are subtle, and that strut rod is one.
The 63 strut rod isn't made from rod stock; it's tapered, and forged or at least heat-treated. There's a swaged flare that retains the cup washer on the fore end. (Later ones are rod stamped flat on end end.)
I'd rather have an upper A arm fail at-speed than that strut rod; a failed A-arm will fold over the suspension (depending) but likely will continue to tie the knuckle to the chassis to allow maintaining control. The other half will tether it within 8" or whatever. If the strut rod goes, the lower ball joint could travel rearward 24", totally diassembling the front end in milliseconds.
The upper arms just aren't under any fore/aft force to worry about, even in most accidents; the strut rod can see *severe* stresses under grandma-easy conditions -- I'd guess 10,000-pound pulses from wacking a curb in a parking lot at 5mph, etc. (Entire mass of the car presses on that rod from all sorts of odd angles depending on how you wack it.)
Note that the strut has a massive 3/8" thick steel three-point mount aft, with 7/16" grade 8 bolts!; fore it bolts to the ball joint (more 7/16" grade 8's, in shear), so the lower arm is just a side-to-side locator (for impulse forces). The tire of course eats most energy but once you compress the tire to the wheel the strut sees it all (after the rim).
You're obviously a good enough welder, and I'd trust your strut rod in my car. If it's straight the forces are all simple compression, with good metal, there you go.
(Maybe you should fab some up and sell them! Pretty much every 63, 64 on the road will need a set!)