RE: Model 20 axles....posi /non- posi

["Todd Jesme" <jesme@xxxxxxxxxxx>]

Tony, et al,
I certainly hope that *I* didn't give the impression that *you* were the one
that gave Joe bad info, just because I signed my post "the other voice of
experience".  I did that simply because I was very sure about the answer
because I have been there/done that, and because I respect you enough to
reserve "the voice of experience" for you.  I don't recall seeing any
reference to you anywhere in this thread, or at least I never read into
that.  Anyways, my signature was not intended to offend or infer that you
were the giver of bad info.  In fact I knew it was you that had posted that
info years ago, I just couldn't find the e-mail I had saved to quote you.

Just Todd this time

-----Original Message-----
From: Tony Zamisch [mailto:tony.zamisch@xxxxxxx]
Sent: Wednesday, October 13, 2004 12:21 PM
To: AMC List
Subject: RE: Model 20 axles....posi /non- posi


> From: "Todd Jesme" <jesme@xxxxxxxxxxx>
> To: mail@xxxxxxxxxxxx
> Subject: RE: Model 20 axles....posi /non- posi
> Date: Tue, 12 Oct 2004 20:35:16 -0500
> Message-ID: <NKEJKAHLGJLPICPKNNKMMEFNCGAA.jesme@xxxxxxxxxxx>
>
> Joe,
> Perhaps the person who told you that meant that the 1970 and up AMC 20
> reared had differnt length "axles" that 69 and earlier.  If memory serves
> (and it usually doesn't!), the driver's side axle is 1" longer than the
> passenger side axle on the 70 and later rearends.  There has been no
> difference in axle lengths in any AMC rearend that I have swapped to posi
> from non-posi.  I think that either you or he had a miscommunication.?.
> Trust me when I tell you that you can put that posi unit and gears into
your
> Grmmie with NO PROBLEMS, provided it is an AMC 20 in it now.  The AMC 20
is
> a great rearend, and absolutely bulletproof with 1-peice axles.
>
> The "other" voice of experience
> Todd
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Joe [mailto:jgray_55@xxxxxxxxx]
> Sent: Tuesday, October 12, 2004 3:44 AM
> To: AMClist; BadAssGremlins
> Subject: Model 20 axles....posi /non- posi
>
> Ok,This doesn't make sense, so i  have to ask....On a
> model 20 rearend...WHY the heck are the axles
> different length, from posi and non posi ?  I was just
> told by a MUCH MORE knowledgible AMCer than me, that
> this was true. What the HE$%^^%$?? Guess i'm just used
> to messing with old 9" ford rear ends for years.They
> are sturdy and simple!! I had just bought a nice used
> twin grip unit and 3:54 gears to put in a 69 Javelin
> axle assy that  "WAS" going to go into my 72 Gremlin.
> I've had the axle assy for awhile.Any one want to buy
> it??...3:54 gears also. I'll probably look for a 9" or
> Mopar 8 3/4. Thanks to anyone who can make sense of
> this, Joe
---------------------------------------------------------------------------

Lister, Friends, and anyone else who cares,

   It appears that some of you are under the impression that I talked with
Joe Gray and gave him bunk info regarding AMC axle lengths. I have not
talked with Joe, nor anyone else on this List about that subject since I
posted the info below back in February of 1999.

   With the thought that this info may help Joe or someone else on this
List, I am posting it again. As you can see, there is NO difference in axle
lengths from "posi" (twin-grip) to "non-posi" (open carrier).

Apparently, Joe was talking with someone who was misinformed.

Kind regards to all,

Tony Z.
California Classic AMC, Inc.
Aerolite Mfg. Co.
(619) 423-0364
10:00 to 10:00 PM Pacific Standard Time
Monday Through Saturday
closed Sundays and Holidays
Home of the AMC Land Speed Record and
"Great White", The World's Fastest AMC Car.
www.amx-perience.com

----------------------------------------------------------------------------
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tony Zamisch" <tony.zamisch@xxxxxxx>
To: "amc list" <amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Tuesday, February 09, 1999 3:17 PM
Subject: AMX, Jav Axle specs
>
>
These are the CORRECT factory measurements for the axle shaft with the
hub pressed on and torqued to factory specs. Also, some info on solid axles.

68/69 AMX and Javelin. Open carrier or Twin Grip.    Right rear (passenger
side)
Outer, or flat edge of hub to splined end of axle shaft: 29-1/4 inches.
Overall measurement end to end:  31-15/16 inches.

70 AMX and Javelin. Open carrier or Twin Grip.    Right rear (passenger
side)
Outer, or flat edge of hub to splined end of axle shaft:  28-3/4 inches.
Overall measurement end to end:  31-7/16 inches.

68, 69, 70 AMX and Javelin. Open carrier or Twin Grip.   Left rear (driver
side)
Outer, or flat edge of hub to splined end of axle shaft:   27-1/2 inches.
Overall measurement end to end:   30-3/16 inches.

The spline length is the same on all the above axle shafts and is: 1-11/16
inches.
If you are looking to replace a stock axle shaft with another stock shaft,
then the above measurements apply.

As you can see, the 70 right axle shaft measurements are 1/2 an  inch
SHORTER than the 68/69 right axle.

Also, There is an easy way to tell what rear end you have in your AMX or
Javelin, and all you need is a tape measure. Here's how:
This measurement MUST be taken on the RIGHT (passenger) side.
Put one end of the measuring tape on the back side of the AXLE FLANGE. NOT
the brake backing plate. Run the other end over to where the axle tube meets
the pumpkin. If your measurement is 18 inches, you have A 1970 AMX or
Javelin rear end. If your measurement is 18-1/2 inches, you have a 68/69 AMX
or Javelin rear end. Simple as that. Good info to know when buying a whole
rear end from someone. If you are not too concerned about dead-on stock,
keep in mind that 68/69 rear ends are easier to get, because more of them
were made. Thinking in terms of stock replacement parts, such as axle
shafts, make your choice wisely. Trying to find a stock 70 right rear axle
at times is difficult. I know.

Measuring axle shafts for replacement with solid axles

To get a correct measurement on any (out of the car) axle shaft WITH the
brake backing plate still attached, remove the wheel cylinder and stand the
axle up. Axle nut up, splined end down. Getting someone to help you makes
this job easier. Put a straight edge on the flat (outer) side of the hub.
Take your tape measure and slide it through the hole where the wheel
cylinder was, and go STRAIGHT down to the ground. Getting a parallel
measurement is far more accurate than a diagonal measurement, when it comes
to having solid axles made. Remember,  you DO NOT use OVERALL measurements
for solid axles! Only use the "hub to spline" measurement as explained here.

If you would like more info on this, or any other related AMC subject, give
me a call.

"The Voice of AMC Axle Experience"
Tony Z.
California Classic AMC, Inc.
(619) 423-0364
>
>