Re: engine painting

["jill jordan" <jjordan@xxxxxxxxxx>]

If you are bolting the light to the bumper that is the problem.  There is a
metal bracket that the light attaches to that then attaches to the bumper.
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Armand Eshleman" <aje1@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: <mail@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Wednesday, October 13, 2004 7:31 PM
Subject: Re: engine painting


> I have always used Acryli-Clean for the final "wash". It is manufactured
by
> Ditzler. Comes in gallon cans. Body shops use it as a wax and grease
> remover.
> I think another name brand of this type solvent/compound is Prep Sol.
> Probably
> not any better for you to breathe than starting fluid but probably
cheaper.
> I suppose
> the starting fluid (ether not charcoal starter) is more convenient because
> it comes
> in pressurized spray cans. Couldn't one just load up something like a lawn
> chemical
> spray bottle with some "Acryli-Clean", pump up the sprayer and start
> spraying?
> CRC Chemicals brake clean or equivalent would do the same thing. The
> important
> point is to use something that leaves no film behind. Denatured Alcohol is
> another
> one that would do the job, it's available at farm supply, fleet supply
type
> stores.
>
> AMC content;   I bought one of those re-pop rear license plate lights for
a
> 70 Javelin from
> some guy on e-bay for about $15.00. It looks like the real thing and all
but
> the distance
> between the two mounting holes is off just enough that both screw holes
> don't match
> the bumper holes. Does anybody know the history of this repro part? Is it
> something
> from Mopar? What did you guys do to get past this little problem?
> Thanks,
>
> Armand
>
>
> snip
> >
> > Subject: engine painting
> > To: mail@xxxxxxxxxxxx
> >
> > I have always used starting fluid for the final rinse,
> > with ggod results...Russ
>
>
>
>