1979 Concord Donor

["Brien Tourville" <hh7x@xxxx>]

Yes to all of the above - or below .......

I would remove the entire braking system from
the Concord Donor carefully - .

Get a spring compressor & remove the front springs.

Now you can remove the upper & lower control arms
and spindle.

Check the control arms - & if they look correct - 
rebuild them with new bushings . 

Use Moog . 


Use a good rust
preventive on the control arms like "Corroless" from
Eastwood .

This stuff is used on the North Sea Oil Rigs.

Use 1983 brake calipers as these do not drag on the
rotor - where as the other years will . 

These are chea[p.

Get a Street Rodder magazine or peruse the mags for car builders
at the Drug Store - jot down suppliers for Braided Aircraft 
Front Brake LInes - get these in a Kit .

You'll get a much firmer pedal with this .

You will be using everything from the brake system on
the Concord - Master Cylinder etc. so save & mark & bag
it all .

Dunno if you ever want to build a Hot 6 - but the 
engine in that '79 has the last of the thick main webbing
in the cyl. block & the 1/2" head studs and the 12 counterweight 
crank & the HD
main bearing caps.

These are the blocks the JEEP Moab Race builders
use - not the 4.0 units.

At very least I would pull the caps and crank & greeze 'em 
for storage. The Stroker guys purchase these .

....or you could throw the motor on an engine stand
and build a screamer over time...........

You could strip out a '87 - '90 Cherokee 4.0 of 
the EFI system & harness & have one quick 6 &
the Renix EFI is the best to run with aftermarket cams & such.

I got my Renix EFI for $150.00 .

A Great cam for the 6 would be
the Crane H - 260 - 2 .


Yes the trans. will work perfectly - again.....
remove & mark everything - as you might be using
the linkages / mounts .

You should get a new torque convertor 
as there is no way to clean out the old one.

Remove the trans. pan & clean the pan.

I'd use an ARP stud kit for the pan bolts
to allow changing the fluid & cleaning the 
pan without stripping out the bolt holes.
Use LocTite Blue on the stud end going 
into the pan rail.


There is a nice cast aluminum 2 quart
extra pan available - which would help with
the killer of TorqueCommands - heat -
and has a drain plug.

Don't use the stamped
steel units - they do not cool .

You can make a Trans cooler from an auto
a/c condensor core.

Find one in a salvage yard that fits - &
shim it away from the radiator as to not
transfer heat - .

Braze Earls' fittings ends on the tubes &
connect to the OUT from the radiator trans 
line.


Strip out everything you can on the '79 
- as AMC parts cars 
are nearly gone. 

YOu'll see a few available & after
that what ever is left in salvage yards 'till they are gone.




Run Red Line Synthetic Trans. Fluid.

I'd have the front seal replaced before
swapping the trans in. 

These develop
leaks - & it is easier to use a new material
seal than have to chase fluid level leaks.


I realize this adds to your plan -
"But Hey..... it's AMC!"



Brien.

"milners-coupe"



Message: 1
Date: Sun, 19 Jan 2003 15:20:03 -0600
From: "Rj Strong" <rjstrong@xxxx>
Subject: gemlin and a concord parts help



hi all i have a 1974 gremlin 258 with drum brakes and want to put
disks on it because some day i would like to make it a v8 but till
then i still need brakes just so i can drive it i need new front 
drums
i baught rear drumms but stiull need to do the front today i found a
1979 concord with disk brakes it has a 258 auto in it if i were to
purchase this concord can i use these disks and does any one have a
list of what all might interchange on it my gremlin needs tranny work
this one has a strong tranny can i put it in my gremmster till the 
day
i do the v8 conversion ( if that day ever comes lol) how could i tell
if its the same or not on the interchange list if any one has it
please let me know about every thing inside and out any help would be
really cool thanks rj 1974 258


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