Re: [BaadAssGremlins] Leaking windshield

Good points and forgot to mention the wire deal. Here in Texas the easiest way to get out glass would be to simply wait until hot summer day, then sit in seat with both feet on upper glass and keep pressure on it with feet. Don't push real hard, just constant pressure. Have removed about 100 of them like that and have 89-11 or so record. Your record may vary.

Messy sealers! AMC used messy sealers, and like Rick said, it looks like shit on sunny day when it runs, that is if it does, depends on climate in your region. Here I could walk outside and take photos of several of my AMCs....with original AMC sealer where it has crept down inside of glass near upper trim No big deal however and AMC did this not only with glass sealer, but paint and undercoating where depends on how many Blatz, Strohs, Schlitz the guy had at lunch at Freddy's East or West on 50th avenue you would get some looking like cake, other times silly string in undercoating. Here is UAW in 1972 with Pall Mall in mouth on East Line for instance:

http://www.planethoustonamx.com/press_photos/72_gremlin_uaw.jpg

someone get me a vacuum cleaner and a Menthos.

Eddie Stakes'
Planet Houston AMX
713.464.8825
eddiestakes@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
www.planethoustonamx.com
email reply currently 5-9 days
8-19 day reply times, just call!

----- Original Message -----

From: Rick Griffin

To: BaadAssGremlins@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx

Sent: Thursday, April 10, 2008 11:37 AM

Subject: Re: [BaadAssGremlins] Leaking windshield - 74 Gemlin

I have been doing this for years on Chevys and AMCs and I try to keep things simple. I remove the old windshield with lots of TLC and a removal tool from NAPA [cheap compared to a new windshield] After cutting all the way around I gently lift the top first and fold toward front cut any stubborn strips as you go.Then clean inside edge [contact area] with lacquer thinner then steel wool.clean channel the same way and treat any rust with a wire brush and coat with "Extend rust converter" I use 3/8" rubberseal sold by NAPA in paint supplies and place it carefully around channel in center of contact area with ends meeting on bottom center.install rubber blocks [in seal box] on bottom edge of channel and gently lower windshield in being careful to center it between front roof supports. Hopefully done on a sunny day last i put pressure evenly around the edges and watch the seal compress and adhere to windshield. I use no other messy sealers and have never had a windshield or backglass to leak. I hate to make a messy repair and the liquid stuff I have seen ooze out from under the edges and look like s--t on a hot sunny day ! Again everybody has their own way of doing things but this has worked for me for over 30 years.Good luck Rick
--- On Thu, 4/10/08, Eddie Stakes <eddiestakes@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:

From: Eddie Stakes <eddiestakes@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: [BaadAssGremlins] Leaking windshield - 74 Gemlin
To: BaadAssGremlins@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Date: Thursday, April 10, 2008, 11:16 AM

Both, if you have it does at glass shop usually about $100-$150. But professionally done also. If you do it yourself, not hard to do except pain in butt. You will need urethane tape, a jar of black goo (I don't remember this but it has tiny paintbrush in it, real sticky shit) and when you remove your windshield (I would recommend two people to pull it out and two to place it back in unless you big boy like me and one persona can do it) but scrape the metal channel well of all old crap, lat down black goo, then run urethane tape around channel bottom. For added protection I would suggest running a thin line of goo along windsheild and top of urethane tape. This is tricky however when laying in glass, but you can scrape off old black goo later. Be sure you have the spacers down at bottom of channel to keep glass from sliding down to metal. Be sure to try to put in glass with equal space on either right and left pillar posts also, so you don't be sliding it back and forth trying to adjust while goo is trying to bond. Once lined up put in metal stainless clips, and once you feel glue/goo is dried (depends on heat, humidity, ect in your area) then put on stainless and snap in place, don't be a Aggie and use metal hammer, use rubber small mallet found at dollar store. You can get the goo, urethante tape and if you need them, some of the clips at many automotive glass suppliers. The clips I may add are also found in auto parts stores under Help! section, take one of your old ones to match up, they are about $5 for 6-8 of them, but again, automotive glass places in your area might let you have them for less. My big brother Tommy (4'6" 460 lbs) was a glasier for Thurman Fondren for about 25 years and used to install glass in auto and businesses; and the other guys would wig when he would lift those big bullet proof 1" inch bank glasses and carry them by himself. Now retired however. Good luck,

Eddie Stakes'
Planet Houston AMX
713.464.8825
eddiestakes@ planethoustonamx .com
www.planethoustonam x.com
email reply currently 5-9 days
8-19 day reply times, just call!

----- Original Message -----

From: Tim Curtis

To: BaadAssGremlins@ yahoogroups. com

Sent: Thursday, April 10, 2008 3:49 AM

Subject: [BaadAssGremlins] Leaking windshield - 74 Gemlin

Can anyone suggest the best course of action to cure my leaking windshield?

It seems to be leaking in a few different places – along the top, the driver’s side, etc.

Do I need to take the car in to a glass shop, or is this something that I can handle at home?

Thanks,

Tim

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