[BaadAssGremlins] Re: 77 amx rear axle questions/help

["Dan M." <vegadan@xxxxxxxxx>]

Today I put the new axle in the car.  I installed new rear springs 
that I purchased from Eaton.  The springs that were in the car were 
3 leaf, while the new ones are 4 leaf.  When I lowered the car, it 
sat way too high.  I modified the rear springs by removing the 
smallest leaf (about 1/4 full length).  This leaf is held in place 
only by the bolt that passes through the middle of all the leafs.  
Should I not do this?  The other leafs are held together by straps 
that wrap around all the leafs, as well as what appear to be pins 
located near the ends.  When I lowered the car, it seemed to ride at 
the correct height.

Thanks,
Dan

--- In BaadAssGremlins@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Dan M." <vegadan@...> wrote:
>
> Does anybody know what the factory specification is for the length 
> of the driveshaft for my car (or where I can find it)?  I couldn't 
> find it on line, and I want to check my measurement against what 
the 
> factory says. 
>  
> Thanks, 
> Dan 
> 
> --- In BaadAssGremlins@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Dan M." <vegadan@> wrote:
> >
> > Thanks, Davis.  I'm gonna try to find 1 local first.  If I 
can't, 
> > I'll let you know.
> > 
> > But now I have another problem.  When I installed the new (old) 
> > axle, it took a near super human effort to get the drive shaft 
> in.  
> > The drive shaft seems like it is a little too long.  I had to 
> rotate 
> > the front of the rear end upward to get the drive shaft joint to 
> > mate with the axle yoke joint.  I always thought that you should 
> be 
> > able to slide the input end of the drive shaft into the 
> > transmission, swing the drive shaft into position, and then 
slide 
> it 
> > back to connect the drive shaft to the axle yoke.  Right now, 
> there 
> > is no room for the input end to move in or out of the 
> transmission.  
> > Shouldn't the input shaft be able to move in or out of the 
> > transmission end a little to make up for slight changes in the 
> > distance from the transmission to the rear axle as the rear axle 
> > moves up or down in its travel?  I measured both rear ends, and 
> the 
> > distance from the axle centerline to the yoke is the same, so 
I'm 
> > pretty sure that the new axle is the correct one.  I measured 
the 
> > driveshaft from the centerlines of both joints to be 51 1/8".  
My 
> > car is a 77 with the 258/4 speed.  Does anybody know the correct 
> > length of the drive shaft?  I'm thinking that maybe the 
driveshaft 
> > was replaced some time in the past with one that is not the 
> correct 
> > length.  Am I missing something here? Any help would be really 
> > appreciated.
> > 
> > Dan
> > 
> >  --- In BaadAssGremlins@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, Davis Martin <martin-
> > davis@> wrote:
> > >
> > > Dan,
> > >    I believe I have one. 20 bucks and it's yours.
> > >    Davis 
> > > 
> > > "Dan M." <vegadan@> wrote:
> > >           Anybody know where I can get the rear brake hose 
(with 
> > the block 
> > > that splits to each wheel) for a 73 hornet?
> > > 
> > > Thanks,
> > > Dan
> > > 
> > > --- In BaadAssGremlins@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Dan M." <vegadan@> 
> wrote:
> > > >
> > > > Thanks, Doc, good idea. Well, I picked up another rear axle 
> > today 
> > > > and am planning to install it over the weekend. I noticed 
that 
> > > the 
> > > > drum diamater on my car is about 10", while the drums on the 
> > axle 
> > > > that I bought are only about 9". Other than the obvious that 
> > > there 
> > > > will be reduced braking action from the smaller drums, will 
> > using 
> > > > these cause any problems with the braking system, such as 
some 
> > > type 
> > > > of imbalance? Since I have never taken a rear axle apart, 
I'm 
> a 
> > > > little nervous of switching the brakes, unless it will cause 
> > > serious 
> > > > problems. Thanks for any input.
> > > > 
> > > > Dan
> > > > 
> > > > --- In BaadAssGremlins@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "amc74hornet" 
> > > > <AMC74HORNET@> wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > --- In 
> > > > > BaadAssGremlins@yahoogroups
> > > > > .com, Davis Martin <martin-
> > > > > davis@> wrote:
> > > > > >
> > > > > > A warrenty
> > > > > > Seriously basically 
> > > > > the same stuff. make sure 
> > > > > the axels spin freely and 
> > > > > no noise. Also make sure 
> > > > > the brakes are good. 
> > > > > That's a sign of a good 
> > > > > possibility of a good rear.
> > > > > > Davis 
> > > > > > 
> > > > > > "Dan M." <vegadan@> 
> > > > > wrote:
> > > > > > Thanks, Davis. 
> > > > > I got a line on another 
> > > > > complete rear end, so I 
> > > > > will 
> > > > > > probably go that route. 
> > > > > Any tips on what I should 
> > > > > be looking for to 
> > > > > > help determine if it is 
> > > > > any good?
> > > > > > 
> > > > > > Thanks,
> > > > > > Dan
> > > > > > 
> > > > > > --- In 
> > > > > BaadAssGremlins@yahoogroups
> > > > > .com, Davis Martin <martin-
> > > > > > davis@> wrote:
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > Dan,
> > > > > > > I meant to say C 
> > > > > clips. they are on the end 
> > > > > of the axel in the 
> > > > > > pumpkin. A bad bearing 
> > > > > on an axel should be 
> > > > > evident when you jack 
> > > > > > up the rear of the car 
> > > > > so the wheels are off the 
> > > > > ground then try to 
> > > > > > wiggle the wheel. If you 
> > > > > feel any slop or play that 
> > > > > would be the 
> > > > > > bad side. Not havig done 
> > > > > this job I would refer to 
> > > > > the TSM and go 
> > > > > > from there.
> > > > > > > Davis 
> > > > > > > 
> > > > > > > "Dan M." <vegadan@> 
> > > > > wrote:
> > > > > > > Davis,
> > > > > > > 
> > > > > > > I have a 1977 TSC and 
> > > > > in reviewing the procedure 
> > > > > for servicing the 
> > > > > > > rear end, there is no 
> > > > > mention of these E clips 
> > > > > that you described. 
> > > > > > > Can you give a better 
> > > > > description of how these 
> > > > > fit and how they 
> > > > > > are 
> > > > > > > removed?
> > > > > > > 
> > > > > > > What kind of noise 
> > > > > does a bad wheel bearing 
> > > > > make? Right now, when 
> > > > > > I 
> > > > > > > drive the car, the 
> > > > > noise that I hear sounds 
> > > > > like a ball bearing 
> > > > > > > rolling around on a 
> > > > > metal table. It seems to 
> > > > > be pretty constant. 
> > > > > > > When we took the car 
> > > > > for a test drive, the 
> > > > > mechanic swerved the 
> > > > > > car 
> > > > > > > from side to side and 
> > > > > it didn't seem to change. 
> > > > > I'm not sure if 
> > > > > > > this means that it is 
> > > > > one of the other rear axle 
> > > > > bearing or what. 
> > > > > > > All I know is that if 
> > > > > the wheel bearings aren't 
> > > > > too hard to 
> > > > > > replace, 
> > > > > > > I may take a shot at 
> > > > > it and see what happens, 
> > > > > but if it is any of 
> > > > > > > the other bearings, I 
> > > > > won't chance it.
> > > > > > > 
> > > > > > > Thanks,
> > > > > > > Dan
> > > > > > > 
> > > > > > > Dan
> > > > > > > --- In 
> > > > > BaadAssGremlins@yahoogroups
> > > > > .com, Davis Martin <martin-
> > > > > > > davis@> wrote:
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > 68-70 AMX and 
> > > > > Javelin will bolt right in 
> > > > > as well as any other 
> > > > > > > small bodied AMC.
> > > > > (Rambler American,concord, 
> > > > > Eagle, Spirit etc)
> > > > > > > > Not sure about the 
> > > > > pacer though. Jeep I don't 
> > > > > think will work 
> > > > > > > either.
> > > > > > > > Davis 
> > > > > > > > 
> > > > > > > > 
> > > > > > > > "Dan M." <vegadan@> 
> > > > > wrote:
> > > > > > > > Thanks for all the 
> > > > > input. Davis, I would take 
> > > > > you up on 
> > > > > > > your offer, 
> > > > > > > > but I notice from 
> > > > > your bio that you are on 
> > > > > the east coast. The 
> > > > > > > > shipping to the 
> > > > > midwest is the killer. I'm 
> > > > > not too familiar with 
> > > > > > > > interchangeability 
> > > > > among the amc lineup. I 
> > > > > know that a Gremlin 
> > > > > > > > would be a direct 
> > > > > bolt in. How about a 
> > > > > Pacer? Javelin? Jeep? If 
> > > > > > a 
> > > > > > > > Jeep would work, I'm 
> > > > > sure I can find one close 
> > > > > by.
> > > > > > > > 
> > > > > > > > Thanks Again,
> > > > > > > > Dan
> > > > > > > > 
> > > > > > > > --- In 
> > > > > BaadAssGremlins@yahoogroups
> > > > > .com, Davis Martin <martin-
> > > > > > > > davis@> wrote:
> > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > There are also E 
> > > > > clips holding the axels in 
> > > > > place in the 
> > > > > > center 
> > > > > > > > section so you won't 
> > > > > be able to pull the axle 
> > > > > the way just 
> > > > > > > > described. 
> > > > > > > > > I have a good 
> > > > > model 15 rear here if 
> > > > > anyone needs it.
> > > > > > > > > Davis 
> > > > > > > > > 
> > > > > > > > > Dave Kaunist 
> > > > > <dave@> wrote:
> > > > > > > > > I haven't done 
> > > > > this on an AMC but did 
> > > > > this on a 
> > > > > > > > Mustang. If the AMC 
> > > > > is similar its not that 
> > > > > hard. Remove the 
> > > > > > rear 
> > > > > > > > drum, flip it around 
> > > > > and loosely attach it back 
> > > > > on the axle, 
> > > > > > then 
> > > > > > > > pull on the drum to 
> > > > > pull the axle out. On the 
> > > > > Mustang the 
> > > > > > bearings 
> > > > > > > > are pressed on so 
> > > > > you'll have to go to a 
> > > > > machine shop to get the 
> > > > > > > new 
> > > > > > > > ones pressed on but 
> > > > > I think the cost for the 
> > > > > bearings and 
> > > > > > pressing 
> > > > > > > > them on should be in 
> > > > > the range of $50-75. You 
> > > > > may want to 
> > > > > > replace 
> > > > > > > > the seals also but 
> > > > > that is also pretty easy. 
> > > > > Slide the axles 
> > > > > > back 
> > > > > > > > in. 
> > > > > > > > > 
> > > > > > > > > This is working 
> > > > > from memory from about 6-7 
> > > > > years ago on a 
> > > > > > > > Mustang. You may 
> > > > > need to pull the backing 
> > > > > plate for the brakes 
> > > > > > off 
> > > > > > > > but even if you need 
> > > > > to do that I believe you 
> > > > > can leave the 
> > > > > > brake 
> > > > > > > > shoes, springs, etc 
> > > > > in place. However, if you 
> > > > > have it all apart 
> > > > > > > and 
> > > > > > > > haven't serviced the 
> > > > > brakes for awhile it might 
> > > > > be a good time 
> > > > > > to 
> > > > > > > do 
> > > > > > > > that also. Good luck.
> > > > > > > > > 
> > > > > > > > > Dave
> > > > > > > > > 72 Gremlin X
> > > > > > > > > -----Original 
> > > > > Message-----
> > > > > > > > > From: 
> > > > > BaadAssGremlins@yahoogroups
> > > > > .com 
> > > > > > > > 
> > > > > [mailto:BaadAssGremlins@yah
> > > > > oogroups.com]On Behalf Of 
> > > > > Dan M.
> > > > > > > > > Sent: Friday, May 
> > > > > 11, 2007 7:38 PM
> > > > > > > > > To: 
> > > > > BaadAssGremlins@yahoogroups
> > > > > .com
> > > > > > > > > Subject: 
> > > > > [BaadAssGremlins] 77 amx 
> > > > > rear axle questions/help
> > > > > > > > > 
> > > > > > > > > 
> > > > > > > > > I have a 77 hornet 
> > > > > amx with the 258/4 speed. 
> > > > > I was told that 
> > > > > > > > the rear 
> > > > > > > > > axle bearings need 
> > > > > to be replaced. My 
> > > > > questions are: 
> > > > > > > > > 
> > > > > > > > > 1. Is this 
> > > > > difficult, or can I do 
> > > > > this myself (I'm somewhat 
> > > > > of 
> > > > > > a 
> > > > > > > > > novice)? 
> > > > > > > > > 2. What other rear 
> > > > > axles (amc or otherwise) 
> > > > > will either 
> > > > > > directly 
> > > > > > > > bolt 
> > > > > > > > > in or will bolt in 
> > > > > with minimal modification? 
> > > > > > > > > 3. Does anybody 
> > > > > have 1 for sale around the 
> > > > > Chicago area? 
> > > > > > > > > 4. My mechanic 
> > > > > says it will be $850 for 
> > > > > the parts/labor. I've 
> > > > > > > > never 
> > > > > > > > > had this done 
> > > > > before - is this a 
> > > > > reasonable price? 
> > > > > > > > > 
> > > > > > > > > Thanks, 
> > > > > > > > > Dan
> > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > A word of serious advice 
> > > > > from personal experience 
> > > > > Dan. Don't throw the old 
> > > > > rear out. 
> > > > > "Doc"
> > > > >
> > > >
> > >
> >
>




 
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