Re: [BaadAssGremlins] Hairline cracks..... "Doc"

[AMC74HORNET@xxxxxxxxx]

Davis said what I was going to say. I would only add on some small
cracks that if you can spread the crack apart you could use Crazy Glue
Gel or the liquid. Also like he said back up the part with a piece of
plastic, I sometimes use sheet model plastic or even 1/8" plexiglass or
even JB Weld. As with anything it has to be super clean to hold up, what
ever you use as a backing make sure both surfaces are sanded and clean
before gluing. Being a model builder I have Crazy Glue Gel and the
liquid in the house along with the Plastic Welding System 2 part epoxy
and also JB Weld and the old Testors model glue. One use of JB weld was
to make the custom billet dash knobs fit where they weren't supposed to
go due to the hole in the knob being to large for the shaft. I taped the
set hole screw closed in the knob and filled the hole with JB Weld and
baked the knob in my dehydrator for 24 hours and then drilled the JB
Weld out to the proper shaft sized for the switch it was going on. All
the plastic stock factory knobs in the whole car have been replaced with
billet ones. Even the stock AMC door handles now have billet knobs.
"Doc"



 
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• From: Davis Martin <martin-davis@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
• Date: Fri, 3 Mar 2006 06:31:48 -0800 (PST)

Bill,

 I know you didn't ask me but I restored my 72 gremlin grille last year from info I got from Doc. I used Plastic Weld System epoxie. Got it at advanced auto.

 You will want to clean the part with a good cleaner like simple green. rince it with water, then I use MEK to do a quick clean in the crack area. You could use alcohol.

 In the face of the crack you should cut a groove so the crack is indented. Then on the back of the crack add the epoxie with a good peice of plastic to back it up. Then fill in the front with the epoxie and after it dries sand it smooth start with 220 to knock it down then move to 400. Then paint. Those cracks come from the grille being tightened too much so be carefull when you reinstall it.

 On larger cracks mine didn't hold up to the violence of drag racing. I am getting a plastic welder to do grille restorations from now on.

 Hope that was some help

 Davis

"William T. Renshaw" <lionwren@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:

Hey Doc, sounds to me like your a very popular person here, and I
have a question for you!! I got some headlight doors yesterday, they
are used and not in bad shape. But, there are these small hairline
cracks around the screw holes in the corners, and I would like your
input on how to go about glueing the those cracks up.The cracks are
accually on the main corners where they screw to the fender. What
kind of glue should I use? I can not stand "super glue" I call it
stoopid glue, stuff never works like it should and of course
these "sausages" that I have for fingers gets more on them then the
part that I am working on. LOL!!
Should I use an expoxy type of glue? Is there a special kind of glue
made for restoring stuff made of 25 year old plastic? In the past I
have found that J/B Weld works good on stuff, whether it be plastic
or metal. But, trying to get somthing back to as close to original as
I possibly can....J/B Weld I dont think will work for this particular
item. I thought about using some liquid modelers glue? I have built
models in the past, in fact I have a Corsair that I havent touched in
a few years in my closet that was and is starting to look pretty
cool. What should I clean these parts with? They are kind of dirty
and I know that I have to get them clean before any kind of glue will
stick where its sapposed to stick. Of course I have taken into
consideration that paint dont like to stick to glue real well.
Anyway, your "expertise" on this little project will be, as
always..greatly appreciated and always respected!! I got an eastwood
catalog the other day in the mail and they have just about anything
and everything under the sun from sisal buff wheels to polish
compound. Have you ever used any of their products? Thanks Bill
Lewiston Id.






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