Re: [AMC-list] Brake problem

[Ken Ames <ameskg@xxxxxxxxx>]

Sounds to me like someone needs someone to work on the brakes that knows what
the heck is going on. Looks like a lot of unnecessary work being done that
doesn't fix the problem. 

Ken


Quoting RAY MICK <rmick@xxxxxxx>:

> Sherry is having a problem with her 81 Concord attached is a vehicle history
> of the problem Please feel free to contact her @ Sherry Musick
> <sherry_musick@xxxxxxxxxxx> :(316) 765-3068
> 06-01-2011
> 
>  
> 
> 1981 AMC Concord
> 
> My car has not been started in over two years. The battery is dead. You have
> to open the hood and leave the hood open when starting the car. Pour some gas
> in the carburetor. Gently turn key forward and nudge car to start. Car engine
> might over speed when started. If this happens, pull coil wire out of
> distributor cap to shut off engine. Car has a new starter and a new ignition
> control module so it should start okay.
> 
>  
> 
> Brake Problem:
> 
> My car has a hard brake and a long stopping distance. The rear brake shoes
> are dragging on the drums. The brake problems began when I replaced the pads
> on the disc brakes, so that it would pass the safety inspection in VA in
> 2004. The red warning light came on after applying the brakes a few times and
> I have repeatedly bled the brake lines. The bleed screws were worn out and
> air kept leaking into the lines. I've fixed this problem. I've replaced the
> master cylinder twice. The first master cylinder was new with a life time
> warranty, and had a bad metering valve on top. The fluid wouldn't flow
> between the two chambers. I've installed a rebuilt master cylinder, new
> drums, new rear wheel cylinders, pads, shoes, and calipers on the front disc
> brakes. The brake problem is still there. There is no brake fade.
> 
>  
> 
> History:
> 
> Nov. 2001, replaced the front calipers, master cylinder, brake pads, shoes,
> etc. An Olds dealer (formerly an AMC dealership) replaced the front brake
> hoses.
> 
>  
> 
> Jan. 4, 2003, my car's brake warning light came on, the brake pedal was too
> low and felt spongy. I purchased two front calipers and a new (not rebuilt)
> master cylinder. A brake place said my car needs 3 tie rods--left inner tie
> rod, right inner and outer tie rod ends and possibly the adjusting sleeves,
> new rear leaf springs and alignment. The new master cylinder I purchased
> doesn't work and it's defective. Maybe the metering valve is bad. 
> 
>  
> 
> Jan. 2003, replaced the calipers, tie rod ends, sleeves, alignment, and
> defective MC with a used MC. Replace the rear leaf springs (nuts, bolts,
> bushings) so the car could be aligned. I'm not sure if they balanced the
> wheels and packed the front wheel bearings. They said, "possible problem with
> the front brake hoses--feels ok on the road--one wheel is hard to move on the
> lift." The proportioning valve was not replaced. In Jan., 2003, the brake
> place said I could drive my car, but one wheel was hard to turn while my car
> was on the lift. They said all I had to worry about were the worn brake hoses
> and I should watch them. I did not like the way the brakes and steering felt
> when I got my car back. Then, the front left wheel began making loud grinding
> noise when making right turns, the wheels squeaked when I applied the brakes,
> etc. The brake pads were worn.
> 
>  
> 
> April 2003, Replace the front wheel rotors instead of the master cylinder.
> The old brake pads have damaged the rotors and the calipers were bad. Install
> front rotors, inner and outer wheel bearings, calipers and brake pads made
> from organic material which emit an odor until they are broken in.
> 
>  
> 
> Oct. 2003, the front brake hoses are bad. The brake place has warned me about
> wear on the front and rear brake hoses.
> 
>  
> 
> Nov. 2003, rreplaced both front brake hoses and pads. The hose on the right
> front wheel has a kink in it, or there is some restriction in the line
> causing the front brake pad to intermittently grab the front rotor causing
> drag on the front wheel. The brake pad will not release from the front rotor.
> Sometimes, this causes the engine to overheat at high speeds on the road. A
> bad MC and/or brake calipers could also be causing the problem. The front
> brake pads are glazed over. I don't know if drag on right front wheel has
> caused damage to hardware.
> 
>  
> 
> Sept. 2004, my car passed the safety test in VA.
> 
>  
> 
> Dec. 20, 2004, the brakes went out. It was very cold that day (about 10
> degrees) and when I put my foot on the brake pedal to shift into reverse
> gear, the pedal went all the way to the floor. I think there is a rubber part
> in the hydraulic brake system that got too cold to operate or close
> properly.
> 
>  
> 
> Jan. 2005, my car passed the emissions test in VA.
> 
>  
> 
> Jan. 2005, replaced the MC, but the brakes weren't working properly, and the
> mechanic at the gas station didn't know what was wrong. The brake warning
> light came on again. I think he couldn't bleed the front brake lines because
> the screws on the calipers were rusted shut. Air bubbles would build up
> inside the brakes lines every time I applied the brakes and the warning light
> came on.
> 
>  
> 
> Feb. 2005, replaced the front bare calipers with loaded ones. I might need a
> new proportioning valve too.
> 
>  
> 
> Feb. 2005, you can probably be okay with a bad proportioning valve for a
> short drive. Check to make sure the fronts aren't dragging badly and the car
> will roll down a slight incline by itself and stop okay. Check to make sure
> it's not sticking hard, drive it around a few miles locally and check the
> front hubs with your hand carefully to see if it's blazing hot or just hot.
> They will get very hot - that's why I use the "roll on incline" test method,
> if they're really sticking the car won't even roll in neutral. If it will,
> it's not sticking badly enough to worry about. Not sure if the proportioning
> valve will cause the discs to stick, but I think they can.
> 
>  
> 
> A Jeep dealer suggested that I buy either an adjustable valve for the rear
> brakes (no dash light) or a universal valve for street rods, (J.C. Whitney
> also sells them). He talked about a hold off valve? Installation would
> require different fittings, replumbing, and more labor costs.
> 
>  
> 
> Chilton's book says it might be a power brake unit vacuum check valve
> malfunction.
> 
>  
> 
> The 1981 AMC service manual says there might be an internal malfunction in
> the power brake unit that?s causing the hard brake. The power brake unit
> could be binding internally. This part must be serviced as an assembly and
> cannot be disassembled, so I might have to buy another one. Not sure if the
> power brake unit can be rebuilt by a mechanic. There is place that rebuilds
> brake parts in VA. Several mechanics have told me the power booster is
> causing the brake problem, but my car doesn?t have one.
> 
>  
> 
> Place to start repairs:
> 
> 1.     Check the brake hose farthest from the master cylinder first.
> 
>  
> 
> Ray Mick
> 
> The older I get the faster I was.
> Somewhere in Kansas
> 
> See my AMC's @
> http://members.cox.net/kamick1/Site_2/My_Space.html
> www.midamericaamc.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
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