Re: [AMC-list] ancient Gemmer steering gear, ancient starter motor

[tom jennings <tomj@xxxxxxx>]

Oh ill leave the link as-is, I don't think there is much to be gained from
changing it. Steering doesn't feel particularly imprecise or sloppy other
than the slop in the old gearbox

Still have original springs which are surprisingly ok. Probably because its
such a long piece of wire. Rears have mild sag, I will later replace all and
clean up the rear.

(from my G2)
On Feb 28, 2011 2:56 PM, "Frank Swygert" <farna@xxxxxxx> wrote:
> Did you ever put stiffer springs in the front? The sway bar won't be very
noticeable, but stiffer springs will. I had a Hornet (I think...) sway bar
in mine. I just drilled straight down through the "frame" rails and used
long carriage bolts to bolt the bar mounts on, made combo shock/sway bar
brackets for the lower arms. The brackets were rough, but worked. You've got
something a lot better now, and I'd make something much better than I had
back then too! But I hardly noticed the sway bar -- only in really violent
maneuvering did I even know it was there. The 12% stiffer progressive rate
front springs, however, were noticeable in all types of driving! At low
speeds they were only slightly stiffer, but the rate increases as the
springs compress. The combination means only a slightly stiffer ride at low
speeds, but greatly reduces body roll and improves handling at high speeds
-- no more "floating"! The stock HD springs are about 10% stiffer than
standard springs, but you know
> they are there right away.
>
> The steering drag link is tough! What I ended up doing was using a brake
adjusting tool and cranking down on the screw in ends. The cotter pin was
nearly on top of the plug. That pulls the tie rods in a bit, but other than
making a longer solid spacer that's all you can do. I greased them THEN
tightened so there would be plenty grease in the ball socket area. I don't
think you can tighten the ends enough to stiffen the steering, at least I
never had a problem, but think I tightened then backed off 1/4 turn or so.
That type drag link was used all the way back to the 50 Nash Rambler. Kept
some of the jolts in rough roads from jarring the steering wheel.
>
> The drag link is pretty straight, it wouldn't be hard to make a solid one,
or use a piece of heavy tubing drilled for standard tie rod ends. The tie
rods would be easy enough, the pitman and idler arm ends are a different
story. The ball sockets bolt to the ends, but I've never seen a tie rod end
that bolts on. Not sure if the 64+ models use a close enough pitman arm, but
would be worth checking. If the pitman arm is close enough the idler arm
should be usable too. I thought about it, but tightening down the ends
worked fine. You might want to make slightly longer spacers and eliminate
the springs.
>
> ------------
> Date: Sun, 27 Feb 2011 19:49:25 -0800
> From: tom jennings<tomj@xxxxxxx>
>
> so to prepare for rallying the american this summer/fall i'm actually
> working on that stuff that will make the car super-tight. Steering
gearbox,
> that really odd (but aircraft-like) steering linkage, that on a Classic is
> simply a forged rod with holes for the rod ends, but on the American, is a
> hollow tube filled with half-ball sockets and springs. that's been sitting
> on the shelf ready to go for a few months.
>
> Since the american is no longer a commuter box, i'll put super-sticky
tires on it,
> probably drop .75" off the tire diameter to bring the revs up for a bit
more
> grunt without losing top end (increased a bit by the balance cam carb and
> ignition).
>
> i have most of the parts to fit the front antisway bar, gotta weld up
> brackets, that's easy enough and all thought out. swaybar is a rambler
part,
> classic i think, but not certain, but it's about perfect for the american
> when installed backwards.
>
> --
> Frank Swygert
> Publisher, "American Motors Cars"
> Magazine (AMC)
> For all AMC enthusiasts
> http://www.amc-mag.com
> (free download available!)
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> AMC-list mailing list
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