Re: [AMC-list] brakes

[Wrambler <wrambler242@xxxxxxxxxxx>]

One of my favorite tricks to bleed by myself, no not by cutting!

Cut a piece of 2X4 or other implement about the length between the seat bottom face 
and the brake pedal, hold it in between, slide the seat forward to depress the pedal.
Crack the bleeder, tighten, move the seat back and repeat.

Can be a bit of a PIA, but it works, when I built my car the first time
I had a 2 year old and a baby, neither of which could help me bleed brakes!
My wife was busy at work most of the time.

The vacuum pump is much easier. 

Mark Price
Morgantown, WV 26508
1969 AMC Rambler, 4.0L, EFI, T-5
2004 Grand Cherokee Laredo, 4.7L, Quadratrac II
"I realize that death is inevitable.
I just don't want to be around when it happens!"

----- "tom jennings" <tomj@xxxxxxx> wrote:

> From: "tom jennings" <tomj@xxxxxxx>
> To: "AMC/Rambler owners, drivers and fans." <amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
> Sent: Thursday, May 27, 2010 4:15:34 PM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern
> Subject: [AMC-list] brakes
>
> oops, meant to reply to Bill + list.
> 
> 
> ---------- Forwarded message ----------
> From: tom jennings <tomj@xxxxxxx>
> Date: Thu, May 27, 2010 at 1:01 PM
> Subject: Re:
> To: Bill Serckie <realtorbill@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> 
> 
> There are pushrods of different length. What I would do is, with both
> on the
> bench, insert the pushrod into each, and make sure the amount it
> sticks out
> is the same, precisely.
> 
> You did bench bleed it, right? It's critical, and you can even harm
> the
> master cyl if you do not. It is nearly impossible to do right on the
> car.
> It's a messy PITA but has to be done. The thing has to be perfectly
> level
> (problem #1 in the car) not the tilt angle it operates at.
> 
> I find that it takes nearly 15 - 20 minutes (!) of pressing in with a
> fat
> screwdriver to purge every single microscopic tiny bubble out of the
> thing.
> 
> It's so messy... I finally just got a section of brake line from NAPA,
> cut
> it in half, and bent it such that hte cut ends dip into the reservoir
> (the
> lines are "C" shaped). Clamp the master in a vise, level, insert the
> two C
> shaped lines, fll the resevoir with brake fluid, then with a big fat
> screwdriver, press the piston in *just one inch* at a time (don't
> bottom it)
> until every single tiny bubble is gone.
> 
> I leave the steel bleeding lines in, then move it to the car, mount
> it, then
> take one off at a time and screw in the real brak eline. You'll need
> to then
> bleed the car, front and rear. Sometimes I have to do that twice, last
> time,
> three bleeds! I use a hand vacuum pump type bleeder. Just some damn
> air
> bubble WILL NOT EXIT.
> 
> Brake stuff is all trickery. None of it is all that hard, just a lot
> of
> annoying little rituals.
> 
> 
> 
> On Thu, May 27, 2010 at 9:37 AM, Bill Serckie
> <realtorbill@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>wrote:
> 
> >
> > Tom,
> >
> > Thanks for the reply...I got it swapped out but had to change the
> pushrod
> > from one master cylinder to the other but now I have absolutly no
> pedal at
> > all.  Is this normal when a non power brake master cylinder is
> changer ?
> > I realize that I need to bleed the new master cylinder but shouldn't
>  I have
> > at least some pedal ?
> >
> > *Bill Serckie*
> > *Coldwell Banker Real Estate & Mortgage Services*
> > *2 River Place Suite "K"*
> > *Lansing, IL 60438*
> > **
> > *Office # (708) 889-2739*
> > *Fax #    (708) 360-5787*
> > *Cell #    (773) 251-5234
> > *
> >
> >
> >
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