Re: [Amc-list] Trunnions for Tom Jennings

[Wayne E Lamothe <superglider@xxxxxxxx>]

I still need to find one.  I have the factory front bar in there now (or
ready to go in) and need a stonger front one.  Got one?

Wayne

 
On Thu, 26 Mar 2009 14:10:27 -0600 Ken Ames <ameskg@xxxxxxxxx> writes:
> "adding a Machine rear sway bar"
> did you change the front bar to match?
> 
> Ken
> 
> 
> Quoting Wayne E Lamothe <superglider@xxxxxxxx>:
> 
> > 
> > All the bushings in the suspension are being replaced with new 
> poly
> > bushings.  That is why I have it all apart now.  This car has been 
> down
> > to almost the last nut and bolt and all the weatherstriping and 
> other
> > rubber parts are being replaced.  I am even doing the 4 bushings 
> in the
> > rear arms and adding a Machine rear sway bar.  I have new bump 
> stops and
> > front sway bar links with poly bushings too.  I am modifying 1970 
> ball
> > joints to fit the 69, all you have to do is remove a tab on the 
> end of
> > the housing and use the esisting bolt holes.
> > 
> > So the upper tube just screws off the top of the trunnion?
> > 
> > Wayne 
> > 
> > 
> > On Thu, 26 Mar 2009 12:49:12 -0700 tom jennings <tomj@xxxxxxx> 
> writes:
> > > It would be a really bad idea to not change all three arm 
> bushings 
> > > now --
> > > it's not something you want to do later! And you have to take 
> all 
> > > that crap
> > > off to do it!
> > > 
> > > They're still available. It takes a press or a big-jawed vise, a 
> 
> > > bunch of
> > > sockets as spacers, and/or pieces of pipe (with ends cut square) 
> or 
> > > pipe
> > > couplers from the plumbing store.
> > > 
> > > They are almost certainly worn out.
> > > 
> > > You can do the lower arm bushing, and the balljoint, later if 
> you 
> > > want since
> > > you can do that with the spring and trunnion in the car and 
> defer 
> > > spending
> > > the cash. But don't cheap out on two $20 bushings that are 
> probably 
> > > trash
> > > now, keep the car from being aligned, make noise, ...
> > > 
> > > 
> > > 
> > > 
> > > On Thu, Mar 26, 2009 at 12:30 PM, Frank Swygert <farna@xxxxxxx> 
> 
> > > wrote:
> > > 
> > > > The thrust bearing is the real killer! The spring support 
> simply 
> > > screws off
> > > > the top of the trunnion. Do that, then remove the nut and push 
> the 
> > > upper
> > > > arms up and the trunnion will slide right off. After that just 
> 
> > > screw the end
> > > > caps off the trunnion and take the bolt out right behind the 
> > > trunnion that
> > > > holds the two arms together. Then you can move one arm up, the 
> 
> > > other down,
> > > > and get the trunnion out without removing the arms. Reassemble 
> in 
> > > reverse
> > > > order. The thrust bearing slides right off the steering 
> knuckle 
> > > once it's
> > > > out of the trunnion.
> > > >
> > > > --------
> > > > From: Wayne E Lamothe <superglider@xxxxxxxx>
> > > > Subject: Re: [Amc-list] Trunnions for Tom Jennings
> > > >
> > > >  Just ordered a new trunnion and thrust bearing from Blaser.  
> 
> > > OUCH!!!
> > > > The factory manual does not say squat about the trunnions or 
> > > pulling the
> > > > steering knuckle out.  How do I remove the lower spring 
> support 
> > > (the tube
> > > > above the trunnion) so I can get to the nut on top of the 
> > > steering
> > > > knuckle to remove the trunnion?
> > > >
> > > > --
> > > > Frank Swygert
> > > > Publisher, "American Motors Cars"
> > > > Magazine (AMC)
> > > > For all AMC enthusiasts
> > > > http://farna.home.att.net/AMC.html
> > > > (free download available!)
> > > >
> > > > _______________________________________________
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> > > >
> > > 
> > > 
> > > 
> > > -- 
> > > All your arguments are invalid.
> > > Enjoy your unstable system.
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