Re: [Amc-list] Howell TBI in a 63 Classic...

[Wrambler242@xxxxxxxxxxx]

Sounds interesting.
I doubt I would have put that much effort into the linkage.
I never liked the whole broken motor mount = sticking throttle thing..

I always assumed the various needs to fit the exhaust manifold was due to age and not that they actually moved anything around!  Could be wrong, but back in the 80's they had a habit of snapping the outer exhaust studs off flush with the head! When I would take them apart, usually the broken studs would come out fairly easily. Once new studs where installed the exhaust would sometimes not fit over them! When we had new manifolds on hand and the customer agreed we would install a new manifold. After a while it seemed to me the ones that got new manifolds would sometime come back with the same problem. Then as the cars got older peple would not want to spend the money. 
   I found that by using my diegrinder and opening the hole in the outsides of the exhaust manifold till there was good clearance all around and the reinstalling they worked fine. I don't recall a single one coming back either!
  Yours sounds like it got longer , most of the ones I recall shrunk, that would explain why yours hit the waterpump area.

   I agree on your choice of rear mounting the pump! They are called pumps, pumps don't like to suck, they pump por push.  I want to do an intank mount with mine. Tanks Inc. makes a nice unit that bolts into most tanks and has it's own sump. It's also $215 plus shipping. I have a 80's Wrangler pump mount that bolts in like the Tanks inc setup so I plan on using it to build my own in tank mount.  Someday.
   My reason is two fold, noise from the external pump and pumplife is longer in the tank where it does not have to draw fuel at all. 
  Someday.


--
Mark Price
Morgantown, WV
1969 AMC Rambler, 4.0L, EFI, T-5
2004 Grand Cherokee Laredo, 4.7L, Quadratrc II
" Chronic Pain Hurts"

 -------------- Original message ----------------------
From: Tom Jennings <tomj@xxxxxxx>
> OK, it's not a weekend job. It's a TWO weekend job.
> 
> Haven't got to the point of starting it yet. Today, I spent ten (10) 
> hours making the throttle linkage. The Classic's got a floor pedal that 
> drives a rotating shaft, that's parallel to the ports on the head; the 
> TBI throttle rotates 90 degrees off (along the front axle line) and 
> about 10" away.
> 
> I hate (hate) hanging gas pedals with cables, they feel crappy and 
> late-model. So I made a two-bellcrank, three-lever system out of steel 
> stock, which though it took me a whole long day I'm quite happy with. 
> It's very pretty. I had to also fab up the transmission throttle 
> pressure cable linkage, and get all the strokes correct (idle to WOT, 
> bottom trans and TBI).
> 
> The TBI also has two humongous return springs on the shaft itself, and I 
> managed to peel one out with pliers. I want a feather-light, 
> floor-mounted old fashioned pedal. Pressure now isn't what it was (I 
> mean, how can you beat a pedal driving one lever rotating a shaft that 
> is directly inline and connected to the single butterfly of a one barrel 
> carb?) but should be OK.
> 
> The 82 intake manifold fits fine, though I had to do a lot of detail 
> work to plug up holes and find water nipples and plugs etc.
> 
> The exhaust was not directly compatible. See, this is why I always rant 
> about 'but have you done it?' because though we all know that the head 
> manifold/port pattern was unchanged from 1964 through mid 1980's, it's 
> not true. Like an 82 head in the 70 Hornet, the exhaust manifold doesn't 
> *quite* fit.
> 
> The two outer ears, that attach to the short studs, are further out on 
> the 82 manifold, hit the water pump and don't fit over the studs. I had 
> to clip off the outer part of the "O" to make a "C" and use a large, not 
> a small, cone washer. No big deal, but no-go without the fix.
> 
> Ports line up fine.
> 
> I put some Right Stuff along the outer edge (pushrod side) above and 
> below the steel gasket. Not anywhere near the combustion chambers. That 
> edge is a chronic leak source. I hope this fixes that!
> 
> I did the head bolt grindy business even though there was no crud in 
> mine. Oil changes do matter! I hope that bolt doesn't break ...
> 
> 
> The Howell docs say to install the fuel pump along the frame rail in the 
> FRONT of the car, but I got paranoid, what about going up a steel hill 
> with an empty tank? Then the pump will be 12" or more above the tank. So 
> I put it inside the frame rail in the rear, where the leaf spring would 
> go if it had one; nice big protected space. Filter before the pump, and 
> the big one up front.
> 
> 
> The wiring harness works, a few runs were short but workable. I'm 
> putting the computer under the glove box (eh, doesn't make me happy, but 
> the under dash A/C takes up the other good space). Greenlee'd a 2" hole 
> for the harness below/left of the fan. Under hood looks OK, but the fuel 
> pump relay and the two dangly fuses are beside and under the wiper 
> motor. The MAP sensor I ended up cable-tying (ugh!) to the driver side 
> tower brace, that part of the harness is too short to put it mich futher 
> away, and actually, that brace is a perfect spot.
> 
> I am giving up on the vacuum wipers, I suspect they'll make the Howell 
> kit angry. Plus fewer hoses.
> 
> 
> I took some photos, so I'll document it soon.
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