Re: [Amc-list] 64-69 Amer/Jav/AMX upper trunnions
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Re: [Amc-list] 64-69 Amer/Jav/AMX upper trunnions



I know the entire panel swap has been done on an American successfully.
The story was in one of Dick Datsons magazine issues IIRC.
Also from what I remember it was a long process requiring custom fitting as all the surrounding area was enough different to cause fitment issues.
Screw it up and your screwed up...

I'd say if one was bound and deteremined to swap a custom upper arm with real and good balljoints using a 70up upright would be the way to go. Thorw in a set of coil overs while yer in there!
  Course it's allready or was available from what's his name in Canada! You'd be reinventing the wheel again...
Is it realy so hard to fix an American or Javeline Trunion? Heck any machine shop worth it's salt can rebuild one for you.
Simple tech, long lasting and tough!
They don't fall apart, they  wear out from lack of maintenance and understanding.
Fix'em. Spend the bucks on other stuff!
--
Mark Price
Morgantown, WV
1969 AMC Rambler, 4.0L, EFI, T-5
2004 Grand Cherokee Laredo, 4.7L, Quadratrc II
" Chronic Pain Hurts"

 -------------- Original message ----------------------
From: adh@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx (Sandwich Maker)
> " From: Frank Swygert <farna@xxxxxxx>
> " 
> " Even if the spring tower isn't 100% identical on the 70+
> " Javelin/Hornet as the 64-69 American/Javelin/AMX, the "upgrade" to 70
> " style suspension can still be done with a bit of careful cutting and
> " welding. The main difference is the location of the upper a-arm mounts
> " on the body. The mounts are straight across on the older cars, the
> " upper arm is angled toward the back on the newer ones to give some
> " "anti-dive" effect when braking hard. For normal drivers it's not
> " enough of an improvement to be worth all the trouble, and certainly
> " takes more time and money than rebuilding the original suspension.
> " Maybe for a road racer though. 
> 
> parts availability would be an attractive motivation for a daily
> driver.  and if your front end already needs extensive rebuilding,
> converting might not cost much more, or even less.
> 
> " I'm not sure if the upper arm mounting locations are the same distance
> " apart on the old and new models or not. If they are, and the A-arm is
> " about the same length as the older models, it wouldn't be hard to
> " replace the upper trunnion with a ball joint -- just replace the upper
> " arm, steering knuckle, and spring. The old model shock can be
> " retained, no need to put a shock inside the spring. The spring rates
> " are VERY different due to the location of the spring. On the old cars
> " it's directly above the steering knuckle, on the newer ones it's moved
> " about 3-4" inward. The inward location needs a higher spring rate
> " (stronger spring) to give the same feel as the further out location.
> " Location had to be changed to clear the ball joint. The angle of the
> " spring should be okay in the old style towers, but I haven't tried
> " this -- it's all theoretical until someone does! I need a Hornet or
> " Gremlin parts car to experiment with... or Javelin...
> 
> the a-arm and shock mounts are on the spring tower pressing.  if you
> pop-'n-swap this whole panel you get everything.
> 
> as far as i could tell from quickly scanning a crash book at a car
> show vendor's booth, the '68-9 spring tower pressing is shared across
> americans, javelins, and amxes, and on the '69-'70 amx inner fender
> -only- the spring tower pressing changed.  so the balljoint panel
> -should- fit '64-9 americans.  change this panel and the entire
> balljoint 'knee assembly' should bolt into place.
> 
> i did not check to see if the '70 amx spring tower pressing was the
> same as hornets etc.
> ________________________________________________________________________
> Andrew Hay                                  the genius nature
> internet rambler                            is to see what all have seen
> adh@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx                       and think what none thought
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