Re: [Amc-list] sending unit question

[Frank Swygert <farna@xxxxxxx>]

Most AMC specific vendors have the unit you need. American Performance Products (www.amclives.com), Kennedy American (www.kennedyamerican.com), and American Parts Depot (www.americanpartsdepot.com), and Galvin's (www.ramblerparts.com) all have them for around $100 ready to drop in.

As Joe stated, the ohm range is the same as Ford. It's like this from the 50's all the way through about 1975. A Mustang unit might fit, "it depends". The ohm range is correct, but the round part that fits the tank may be a different size. The pickup tube will likely be bent differently as well as the float arm. Either of those can be  "fixed" with a bit of work. I've bought universal adjustable sending units from JC Whitney or boating supply stores with the 10-75 ohm units. Anywhere within a couple ohms is fine, they aren't that accurate! Officially, the AMC unit is 9-73 ohms, with +/- 1 ohm on the low end, +/- 12 ohms on the high end -- so it could be listed by others as 8-10 ohms on the low side (which is actually FULL or HOT) and 61-85 ohms on the high end (actually EMPTY or COLD). One listed in a boat catalog as 10-61 ohms works just as good as one listed in JCW as 9-75 ohms. I seem to recall that there is a +/- 2% variance at any specific reading, which would make it ac
 curate to about double the width of the needle. 

To use a universal type you need to have an original unit in good physical condition. The float arm and electrical part can be bad, but the tube and round base plate must be good. Pry the cover off the electrical unit and disassemble it, leaving just a small flat piece of metal on the tube. Take the electric unit off the adjustable replacement -- there should be two screws holding it on. Place the new unit on the original base plate. You may have to drill a hole, but I have usually been able to "clamp" it on by putting one screw in the arm slot and the other near the top with the plate between the edge of the head of the top screw and the body of the replacement unit. Both screws can be fastened this way, just make sure they are tight. Remove the screw or stud that the original sending unit wire fastened to. The lower end (tank side of plate) is usually riveted in. Drill the rivet head and remove the stud and insulator. Keep the insulator and run a correct size screw through 
 the hole. The screw needs to be a size that the sending unit wire will slip onto, or you can cut the push-on end off the wire and crimp on an eye terminal (not recommended, it makes tank removal harder -- a push together connection can be used in the wire under the car near the tank though). Now it's just a matter of bending the float arm so it will register correctly. The arms are usually wire with a bend for the float. Cut it off shorter and/or bend as needed. 

Don't forget to replace the "sock" pickup filter! A 60's Mustang unit works perfectly, or remove the original filter leaving the rubber end, and cut a fuel pump mounted sock of similar diameter off. Slide it over the rubber end and secure with a piece of wire. It won't rust inside the tank! A nylon zip tie MIGHT work, but isn't recommended. I don't know how long one would last immersed in gasoline. 

----------------
Date: Tue, 27 Nov 2007 14:49:17 -0700
From: <mariclairemccall@xxxxxxxxxxxx>

1971 AMC Javelin SST, 304 Engine
I removed my gas tank yesterday and dropped it at a radiator shop to be cleaned and sealed. The gas inside was like turpentine! I don't want to put the original sending unit back in because it will just fail. Auto parts store said it is discontinued. Anyone know where I can get a new one or is there another model that will fit, a jeep maybe?

-- 
Frank Swygert
Publisher, "American Motors Cars" 
Magazine (AMC)
For all AMC enthusiasts
http://farna.home.att.net/AMC.html
(free download available!)


_______________________________________________
Amc-list mailing list
Amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx
http://www.amc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/amc-list