Re: [Amc-list] Breadbox American 440H with Twin-Stick

[Tom Jennings <tomj@xxxxxxx>]

This is an interesting thread, the idea of driving a hopelessly obsolete 
car  in the modern environment. It's totally possible, I do it.

The 70 Hornet is basically a modern car, I simply updated stuff like disc 
brakes. 83 motor. Carb though. But nearly any part that woudl stop you on a 
trip is available in SOME store (motor stuff, trans, tires, brakes, 
suspension).  The only spare I carry in this car is a Duraspark box. I also 
carry a decent set of tools as good practice. Lamps, fuses, spare tire, etc.

The 63 classic is a partially modern car, by design somewhat, and some mods 
(brakes, motor). Short of a hard part failing -- eg. the pinion shaft that 
sheared off idleing off from a green light! -- the things that would 
prevent continuing on a long trip are all driveline, electrical and 
suspension. Since I do quasi-off-road and long trips in this car I carry 
Duraspark, belts, hoses, most of a toolset (1/4-1" wrenches, 3/8 ratchet 
set, etc), LP rebuild spares, hose, electrical parts, etc.

Things like annual full brake bleeds, full chassis lube, trans and axle 
checks get you intimate with the innards where you see things before they 
fail. I identify every single squeak and noise, period. Fix most. Unless 
it's a seat or glovebox, it's something wearing out. I change parts BEFORE 
they break; when things do break I save the part and if it's not ordinary I 
do a full disassembly and find out WHY it broke (it's often interesting or 
revealing). Flakey headlamp switch? Fix in the comfort of your driveway, 
not on the side of the road!

Once you get the car up to a certain level of reliability, it's easy to 
keep there. Getting it there is the work!

The 63 American, since I didn't build the motor I'm not likely to trust it 
driving long distance trips. I don't know all it's parts intimately yet. 
Electical doesn't scare me; I can drive it with no generator and no starter 
far enough to get somewhere to fix it. I've inspected or replaced all the 
engine accessories, belts, hoses, head innards, tubing and half the 
fasteners. Changed every single brake component(tubing and all) 'cept for 
some springs, backing plates, etc. They all tell about the car's history.

On this car I will (get and) carry spare fuel pump, water pump. I'd like to 
buy a spare Pertronix but that seems unlikely ($$). I have a junk fuel 
pump, I suppose I should carry that for now, it seems OK, or I could just 
get a small electric and reg as the emergency, get-home part.

I just don't know about this motor design, but so far, it's been great. I 
measure the compression shortly. The power density is so low, the mass so 
high, that if the bottom end is getting oil, and I don't do anything 
totally stupid (no spark advance, etc) the short block stuff seems bullet 
proof enough. The valve train and head seems fussy. Cracked heads, well, a 
good radiator, a far-better-than-factory fan, modern juice and good 
maintenance has got to be 99% of that.

I don't really trust the pushrods/rockers I have, they are all very worn. I 
doubt the pushrods are totally straight. The rocker shaft is worn, and 
flows too much oil. Those I can change if I buy the parts.

Why does a motor need so much head-retorquing? It says check at 4000, 
retorque at 8000! Is this a factor of gasket technology? Or some 
metallurgical thing with bolts changing length with heat and torque? It's 
got a fair number of headbolts, and low cylinder pressures.


Few car parts fail without warning. I heed the warning and fix before 
failure. Noisy generator, squeaky water pump, intermittent switches, etc.

But MAINTENANCE eliminates pretty much all problems, even most of the 
"unpredictable" ones. 20 years ago is different from today, we're also 
older and hopefully smarter.

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