Re: [Amc-list] Steering box changes, early 60s to later

["Swygert, Francis G MSgt 436 CES/CECM" <Francis.Swygert3@xxxxxxxxxxxx>]

Date: Sunday, April 1, 2007 03:07 PM
From: Tom Jennings <tomj@xxxxxxx>

On Sat, 31 Mar 2007, Sandwich Maker wrote:

> " The power steering slave units are jet-aircraft complex (check
> " out the TSM procedures! Makes the auto-trans look like a carb
> " rebuild), but are very reliable, they often just end up leaking.
>
> and it should be easy to retrofit saginaw integral ps - didn't the '65
> or '66 have it?  the ps gear would mount with a sill plate adapter
> anyways, and probably take the existing pitman arm.

You're probably right; I have a '65 box in my 63 (identical,
manual box). Hmm... I have the old 63 box here (spear'o'death)
and the 73 parts car, I'll do a quick measure and compare. I
also have a spare Pitman arm or two.

I know that in later years there's only like two pitman arms. I
wouldn't be surprised if they fit the old box too. The major
differences are power vs. manual (different splined-end diameter)
and big vs. small taper on the outside end (old cars use large
taper ball joints/rod ends, otherwise interchangable!). Not
sure if there's any pitman arm length differences but that's
trivial to check.
---------------------------------

I've made the change. I used a 1980 Concord PS box (same Saginaw as 70s
AMC). The only big difference is the pitman arm stud that connects to
the drag link -- the taper and size is different from early 60s AMCs. I
got around this by driving a couple small steel pins in beside the stud
-- not the ideal way, but it worked. I checked the pins every 6 months
or so, and changed them about every 15K miles (they would deform) over
time, not a large area! The steering would loosen slightly, but not
enough to notice. It couldn't come apart or I wouldn't have used this
method, and it's one of those things that I'd do for myself but would
not recommend to others. I don't know if there is a pitman arm that will
fit the early drag link. The manual arm wouldn't fit the power box. A
65-66 Classic pitman arm may work, but I think the tapered hole in the
draglink changed when the steering box did. The only real solution may
be to find a 65-66 draglink and pitman arm, which may require the inner
tie-rod ends to be changed as well (I think all the tapered link holes
are the same), but will work. The only other solution is to weld inside
the 63-64 drag link hole and use a tapered ream to resize the hole.
Speedway (and others) sell the tapered reams, though I forget what
degree the taper is. 

You don't have to have the special adapter used on 65-66 models. I used
the lower hole on the PS steering box and manual box, then drilled the
other mounting holes through the front rail. The highest hole (upper
closest to firewall) will be right on top of the rail. I just used a
piece of tubing as a spacer along the top of the rail and ran a bolt
through the spacer and fender well. I did use the 1/2" thick spacer from
the Concord between the rail and PS box. This setup worked great! I had
the advantage of an original 65 PS steering column shaft, but the "spear
of death" shaft can be cut off and a flat ground on one or two sides for
a rag joint fitting. The fitting can be liberated from another steering
shaft or box, or purchased from Speedway. A single D shaft has one flat,
a double D two. Grind the shaft accordingly. 

I'd cut the shaft about two inches above the box, then grind it to match
the rag joint fitting. The PS box is longer than a manual box, and the
rag joint takes up another inch or so of space. Install the box then
test fit the shaft. Push the steering wheel on tight and measure the
distance from the back of the wheel to the upper edge of the column. The
socket for the shaft is about 3/4" deep, so you have about 1/4" of
adjustment. Make sure the shaft is seated in the socket as far as it
will go when measuring. Pull the shaft then cut the measured minus 1/8"
off. That should leave 1/16"-3/32" between the steering wheel and
column. Tightening the steering wheel nut will pull the wheel down some.
If the wheel doesn't tighten down close enough to your liking you'll
need to pull the shaft and trim it some more. If it's to close you have
that 1/4" of play in the rag joint socket. If necessary the rag joint
can be taken apart (drill rivets and replace with grade 8 bolts if
necessary) and washers added or the insert doubled to add length.
Hopefully you measured better than that though! 

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