My fuel guage stays on empty even whe tank is full. Ho do I determine whether the problem is with the guage itself or in the sensing unit in the tank? -----Original Message----- >From: amc-list-request@xxxxxxxxxxxx >Sent: Mar 29, 2007 11:11 AM >To: amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx >Subject: Amc-list Digest, Vol 3, Issue 86 > >Send Amc-list mailing list submissions to > amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx > >To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit > http://www.amc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/amc-list >or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to > amc-list-request@xxxxxxxxxxxx > >You can reach the person managing the list at > amc-list-owner@xxxxxxxxxxxx > >When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific >than "Re: Contents of Amc-list digest..." > > >Today's Topics: > > 1. Re: rebelmachine diecast (Steven F. Brueggeman) > 2. Re: rebelmachine diecast (KENT ANDERSON) > 3. Re: carter AFB (Armand Eshleman) > 4. Re: Remember when? (Russell Neyhart) > 5. Re: Remember when? (Russell Neyhart) > 6. Rear door on Eagle wagon won't open (Roger Blake) > 7. Fw: headers & intake wanted (Eddie Stakes) > 8. Re: Source for Hornet radiator? (Roger Blake) > 9. Re: Rear door on Eagle wagon won't open (Keleigh Hardie) > 10. Re: pertronix install on '63 american > (Swygert, Francis G MSgt 436 CES/CECM) > 11. Re: carter AFB (Swygert, Francis G MSgt 436 CES/CECM) > 12. Re: Rear door on Eagle wagon won't open (JOE FULTON) > > >---------------------------------------------------------------------- > >Message: 1 >Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2007 21:48:10 -0500 >From: "Steven F. Brueggeman" <amcer@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> >Subject: Re: [Amc-list] rebelmachine diecast >To: "AMC/Rambler owners, drivers and fans." <amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx> >Message-ID: <034d01c771ac$b1e05090$88708b4a@your9efcb93c24> >Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1"; > reply-type=original > >They're being made by a company called Yat Ming. >http://www.yatming.com/home.html >Follow the "Products>Road Signature>Scale 1:18" on the flash page. Click >"More" to see the R/W/B model. > >Diecastmuscle.com is taking preorders. >http://www.diecastmuscle.com/store/Makes/AMC/ > >-Steve- > > >----- Original Message ----- >From: <JWidiker@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> >To: "'AMC/Rambler owners, drivers and fans.'" <amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx> >Sent: Wednesday, March 28, 2007 8:06 PM >Subject: [Amc-list] rebelmachine diecast > > >>A few weeks/months ago someone posted a rebelmachine diecast, has anyone >> gotten one, and do you have a link? Thanks a ton! >> >> >> >> ~John >> >> >> >> -------------- next part -------------- >> An HTML attachment was scrubbed... >> URL: >> http://www.amc-list.com/pipermail/amc-list/attachments/20070328/38278b3c/attachment.htm >> _______________________________________________ >> Amc-list mailing list >> Amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx >> http://www.amc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/amc-list >> > > > >------------------------------ > >Message: 2 >Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2007 23:49:03 -0400 >From: "KENT ANDERSON" <65marlin327@xxxxxxxxxxx> >Subject: Re: [Amc-list] rebelmachine diecast >To: <amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx> >Message-ID: <002601c771b5$322763d0$6400a8c0@SONY> >Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" > >I ordered one of those diecasts. I e-mailed them recently to see what was up, as they had advertised it with a February release. The reply states they've been moved back to March. As March is about to fade away, I'm guessing they'll be telling us it is scheduled to leave the factory in April. Probably on the FIRST, the way MY luck's been running. >-------------- next part -------------- >An HTML attachment was scrubbed... >URL: http://www.amc-list.com/pipermail/amc-list/attachments/20070328/9dd5b723/attachment.htm > > >------------------------------ > >Message: 3 >Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2007 23:10:21 -0600 >From: "Armand Eshleman" <aje1@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> >Subject: Re: [Amc-list] carter AFB >To: "AMC/Rambler owners, drivers and fans." <amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx> >Message-ID: <009101c771c0$8d2944a0$6601a8c0@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> >Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" > >I bought it at the local Car Quest auto parts store. The kit was made in the >USA by Standard Motor Products Inc. It is Car Quest part number EC 430 and >was the last one the warehouse in the metro MN area had. Parts guy said they >(warehouse in metro) sold two of them last year. Curious thing was it wasn't >listed in his computer data base so he went to the books and found the >number. When he entered that number in the computer it came up with the >information. There are a few drawings of the linkage but they aren't very >good so it's a bit difficult to understand. I haven't rebuilt a four barrel >carb for a long time either and need all the help I can get. Which reminds >me, thanks again Ralph for the photos. >I think like everything else to do with older cars, carburetor kits are >getting harder to find too. I find this kind of curious because Edelbrock >still makes new AFB style carbs and Holley makes lots of carbs too >apparently, but rebuild kits for old carbs must not sell very many so >they're more difficult to find. Or so I'm finding out, NAPA said they don't >have one for the AFB. >Armand > > > > >----- Original Message ----- >From: <Wrambler242@xxxxxxxxxxx> >To: "AMC/Rambler owners, drivers and fans." <amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx> >Sent: Wednesday, March 28, 2007 6:13 AM >Subject: Re: [Amc-list] carter AFB > > >> Who makde the kit? >> I've never seen a kit that didn't have a linage schematic on it! >> It's been a while since I fooled wiht a carb! :] >> But, that just sucks. How do they show adjustments, if they don't show the >linkage? >> >> -- >> Mark Price >> Morgantown, WV >> 1969 AMC Rambler, 4.0L, EFI, T-5 >> >> -------------- Original message ---------------------- >> From: "Armand Eshleman" <aje1@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> >> > If any one has a Carter AFB on a 68 or 69 290, 343 or 390, >> > I would certainly appreciate a couple of pictures of the >> > linkage on both sides of the carb. Or a scan of a drawing, >> > or anything. My rebuild kit isn't quite clear on how the >> > linkage goes together. I'm putting it on my 70 304 on a >> > performer intake. My AFB has an electric choke, any suggestions >> > on how to wire that?? >> > Thanks, >> > Armand >> > _______________________________________________ >> > Amc-list mailing list >> > Amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx >> > http://www.amc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/amc-list >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Amc-list mailing list >> Amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx >> http://www.amc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/amc-list >> >> >> >> -- >> No virus found in this incoming message. >> Checked by AVG Free Edition. >> Version: 7.5.446 / Virus Database: 268.18.20/737 - Release Date: 3/28/07 >4:23 PM >> >> > > > >------------------------------ > >Message: 4 >Date: Thu, 29 Mar 2007 05:29:32 -0400 >From: Russell Neyhart <rtneyhart@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> >Subject: Re: [Amc-list] Remember when? >To: "AMC/Rambler owners, drivers and fans." <amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx> >Message-ID: <460B86FC.4000002@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> >Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed > >My favorites are the Wartburg Estate (CEB-265), "Herve le bogue d'amour" >(Citroen 2CV), and the Skoda sedan (FBM-661)! > >Russell > > >JOE FULTON wrote: >> That little cream colored car ABS-626 looks like one >> of the cartoon cars in the Chevron ads. >> >> Joe Fulton >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Amc-list mailing list >> Amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx >> http://www.amc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/amc-list >> > > > >------------------------------ > >Message: 5 >Date: Thu, 29 Mar 2007 05:39:07 -0400 >From: Russell Neyhart <rtneyhart@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> >Subject: Re: [Amc-list] Remember when? >To: "AMC/Rambler owners, drivers and fans." <amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx> >Message-ID: <460B893B.8090504@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> >Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed > >That isn't cardboard... it's recycled Radeberger Pilsner cans! > >Keleigh Hardie wrote: >> That orange Trabant is interesting. I didn't know cardboard could rust... >> >> Kelly >> >> Tom Jennings wrote: >>> Photos of cars in Budapest are uploading, the link here at >>> home is especially slow... (3 hrs and only half done... DSL >>> not available in our 'designated poor' neighborhood visually >>> in sight of downtown.) >>> >>> But a quick glance will show you why, even though eastern europe >>> wasn't open to the U.S. for auto biz, it wouldn't matter anyways. >>> >>> http://wps.com/AMC/Budapest >>> >>> I'll write more later. Just getting re-acclimated. >>> >>> _______________________________________________ >>> Amc-list mailing list >>> Amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx >>> http://www.amc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/amc-list >>> >>> >> _______________________________________________ >> Amc-list mailing list >> Amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx >> http://www.amc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/amc-list >> > > > >------------------------------ > >Message: 6 >Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2007 12:19:47 -0400 (EDT) >From: Roger Blake <rogblake@xxxxxxxxx> >Subject: [Amc-list] Rear door on Eagle wagon won't open >To: mail@xxxxxxxxxxxx >Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.61.0703281209360.7982@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> >Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII; format=flowed > >During the winter I started having a problem with the left rear door >on my '85 Eagle wagon, in that it will not open using either the inside or >outside door handle. Now that the weather is getting decent I finally >decided to check out the inside of the door to see what's going on. I >managed to get the door panel off from inside the car. > >I was hoping to find just a linkage rod fallen out of place, but >no such luck. Both inside and outside door handle linkages work, >as does the door lock linkage. When I work the door lock I can see >a slider moving up and down in the latch, but the latch does not >release. So it appears then that the door lock mechanism inside the >latch is stuck in the "locked" position. > >The Eagle M.R. 251 manual does not have a body section, but I do have >a 1975 AMC TSM (Eagle latches should be the same as Hornet). Unfortunately >the TSM does not go into detail on the workings of the latch itself, only >the control linkages. I assume then that the latch is supposed to be >swapped out as a unit if it fails, trouble is of course that the door >has to be open to do this! > >I've tried soaking everything I can reach with penetrating oil. (Didn't >expect this to do anything, and it didn't, but couldn't think of anything >else.) Any ideas how I can get this door open, short of a torch? > >-- > Roger Blake > rogblake@xxxxxxxxx > > >------------------------------ > >Message: 7 >Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2007 16:19:01 -0500 >From: "Eddie Stakes" <eddiestakes@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> >Subject: [Amc-list] Fw: headers & intake wanted >To: <baadassgremlins@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>, <mail@xxxxxxxxxxxx> >Cc: johnson_2005@xxxxxxxxxxxxx >Message-ID: <016201c7717f$1ab5b610$3ff6b148@piageedc1iqa5q> >Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1"; > reply-type=original > >The folks below are looking for some leads on headers and I believe a intake >for a 71 AMX with a 304V8. Anyone have any advise please feel free to chime >in and maybe point them in the right direction, also please copy your reply >to them and thansk in advance to all who might reply. >Eddie Stakes' >Planet Houston AMX >713.464.8825 >eddiestakes@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx >www.planethoustonamx.com >Email is currently OVERLOAD >8-19 day reply times, just call! >----- Original Message ----- >From: <johnson_2005@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> >To: <eddiestakes@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> >Sent: Thursday, March 08, 2007 7:41 PM >Subject: i need your help > > >>i am lookin for a set of headers and a hight fire intake manafold os a 71 >>amx 304....i have been lookin all over the place and i cant find any hight >>preformance parts for this car so send me some info please >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> > > > >------------------------------ > >Message: 8 >Date: Thu, 29 Mar 2007 06:54:31 -0400 (EDT) >From: Roger Blake <rogblake@xxxxxxxxx> >Subject: Re: [Amc-list] Source for Hornet radiator? >To: mail@xxxxxxxxxxxx >Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.61.0703290649390.9411@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> >Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII; format=flowed > >Jeffrey Bohler wrote: >> I have had luck with rockauto.com in the past, but I checked, and they were >> $222. > >I've done some more poking around, so far the best price I've found >on a new radiator is from radiatorworld.com at $178.00, with free >shipping. (They did not list the Hornet, but have a unit that fits >Concord and Eagle which should be the same.) > >-- > Roger Blake > rogblake@xxxxxxxxx > > >------------------------------ > >Message: 9 >Date: Thu, 29 Mar 2007 06:15:41 -0600 >From: Keleigh Hardie <keleigh3000@xxxxxxxxx> >Subject: Re: [Amc-list] Rear door on Eagle wagon won't open >To: "AMC/Rambler owners, drivers and fans." <amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx> >Message-ID: <460BADED.60300@xxxxxxxxx> >Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed > >Since you've got the door trim off already, is there enough room between >the door and the body to get a wrench in there and unscrew the lock pin? >Maybe with the seat folded down, or removed? > >Kelly > >Roger Blake wrote: >> During the winter I started having a problem with the left rear door >> on my '85 Eagle wagon, in that it will not open using either the inside or >> outside door handle. Now that the weather is getting decent I finally >> decided to check out the inside of the door to see what's going on. I >> managed to get the door panel off from inside the car. >> >> I was hoping to find just a linkage rod fallen out of place, but >> no such luck. Both inside and outside door handle linkages work, >> as does the door lock linkage. When I work the door lock I can see >> a slider moving up and down in the latch, but the latch does not >> release. So it appears then that the door lock mechanism inside the >> latch is stuck in the "locked" position. >> >> The Eagle M.R. 251 manual does not have a body section, but I do have >> a 1975 AMC TSM (Eagle latches should be the same as Hornet). Unfortunately >> the TSM does not go into detail on the workings of the latch itself, only >> the control linkages. I assume then that the latch is supposed to be >> swapped out as a unit if it fails, trouble is of course that the door >> has to be open to do this! >> >> I've tried soaking everything I can reach with penetrating oil. (Didn't >> expect this to do anything, and it didn't, but couldn't think of anything >> else.) Any ideas how I can get this door open, short of a torch? >> >> > > >------------------------------ > >Message: 10 >Date: Thu, 29 Mar 2007 07:49:21 -0500 >From: "Swygert, Francis G MSgt 436 CES/CECM" > <Francis.Swygert3@xxxxxxxxxxxx> >Subject: Re: [Amc-list] pertronix install on '63 american >To: <PIPER_PA20@xxxxxxxxxxx>, <amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx> >Message-ID: > <4CC05BF0CC3F114281434B00B733E2A34FD740@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> >Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" > >The Pertronix needs a source of switched 12V. Just run a new wire from a >switched source and you'll be fine. > >Joe's correct... for 70s AMCs. Somewhere around 67-71 they changed from >using either a ballast resistor or a high internal resistance coil to >using a resistance wire. > >There are wiring diagrams for 56-65 Ramblers on www.tocmp.com (go to the >site map, link near bottom of left column). 56-57 sixes used a ballast >resistor, 58+ used a high resistance coil and no resistor. The resistor >shown in the wiring for 65 and later is for the alternator (noise >filter). You'll note that there is a splice after the resistor that >feeds power to the coil. > >If you bought the correct coil for the car it likely has a high >resistance inside, but that shouldn't affect the + wire going to the >coil. It should come straight from the ignition switch, or rather from a >splice or junction of wires that get power from the switch. A corroded >or loose connection could cause a high resistance and power drop. > >The high resistance coil will cut voltage internally as it gets warm >from use. If you bought a generic coil it will not have a high >resistance. A common replacement coil sometimes comes with an external >ballast resistor. Those can be substituted for the original as long as >the resistor is used. That's why you occasionally see a 58-65 (or later) >with a ballast resistor. > > >------------------------------------------------------ >Date: Wednesday, March 28, 2007 04:18 PM >From: JOE B FULTON <PIPER_PA20@xxxxxxxxxxx> > >With the ignition on, check the voltage on the >positive side of the coil (to ground). It will >probably be something less than 12 volts, indicating >that you have a resistor wire in the circuit. AMC did >not use ballast resistors, per se, but used a resistor >wire spliced into the circuit. You will need a full >12 volts to the coil when the ignition is in the "run" >mode, I think. > > > >------------------------------ > >Message: 11 >Date: Thu, 29 Mar 2007 07:54:19 -0500 >From: "Swygert, Francis G MSgt 436 CES/CECM" > <Francis.Swygert3@xxxxxxxxxxxx> >Subject: Re: [Amc-list] carter AFB >To: <aje1@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>, <amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx> >Message-ID: > <4CC05BF0CC3F114281434B00B733E2A34FD748@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> >Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" > >Parts for older cars are getting difficult to find in the normal auto >parts chains, you just have to look to more specialized old car parts >sources. The big operations don't stock parts that don't move -- they >can't really afford to devote the space when it can be used for parts >that do sell. I don't blame them for that! The specialized dealers do >charge a little more, but they have to -- the parts don't move so fast, >but usually do move faster than they would at a big chain because people >have to go to the specialty dealer. Keeps www.kanter.com in business, >and they do a good bit of business too! > > >------------------------------ > >Message: 12 >Date: Thu, 29 Mar 2007 09:11:48 -0700 (PDT) >From: JOE FULTON <piper_pa20@xxxxxxxxxxx> >Subject: Re: [Amc-list] Rear door on Eagle wagon won't open >To: "AMC/Rambler owners, drivers and fans." <amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx> >Message-ID: <107721.67975.qm@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> >Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1 > >I bought a 75 Pacer that had been sitting up to it's >floorboards in redwood tuff in the mountains behind >Santa Cruz. The passenger door would not open. >After soaking the latch assembly in PB Blaster and >other lubricants I finally had to resort to using my >Dremel tool and cutting the latch assembly out of the >door from the inside. Since your door as been >operated more recently than my Pacer door, the >lubricants may still work. With the assembly in the >unlocked position, I suggested trying to rap on the >latch from inside with a wood or brass tool while >simultaneously pulling the handle (inside or outside, >if you have a helper) to the open position. If it >does open, I recommend removing it and soaking it in >carburetor cleaner, followed by plenty of lubriplate >or white grease. > >Gook luck, >Joe Fulton > > > >------------------------------ > >_______________________________________________ >Amc-list mailing list >Amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx >http://www.amc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/amc-list > > >End of Amc-list Digest, Vol 3, Issue 86 >*************************************** _______________________________________________ Amc-list mailing list Amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx http://www.amc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/amc-list