Re: [Amc-list] suspension improvements on 62 classic

["Swygert, Francis G MSgt 436 CES/CECM" <Francis.Swygert3@xxxxxxxxxxxx>]

The sway bar on those things mounted on the rear crossmember under the
bell housing. The six bar was optional, you might find it on wagons. The
V-8 bar will fit, and is rather small. I think the V-8 and optional six
bar is the same, but not positive. 

The high spring mount on these cars make them very roll resistant. The
key is using the higher rate springs. I've mounted sway bars to 61-63
Americans and 63-64 Classics. You can't tell the bar is there except in
the hardest turns -- like going way to fast on a tight interstate
off-ramp. You know, one that has the "20 mph" sign right there at the
ramp with a short de-cel lane that you need to get off on, and you're
doing 75 or so when you see it? Now WHY don't they have ramp speed
indicated on the 1/4 mile and/or 1/2 mile signs on these tight ramps? Oh
well, bad signage, especially in interstates, is a pet peeve of mine!

You're going to get the stiffer springs -- good! They need to be the
heavy duty rate listed in the TSM (only pre 69 TSMs have spring rates
listed) or a little stiffer. Don't go to much stiffer or it will affect
the ride more than you'd like. I don't know about other places, but
www.coilsprings.com (Coil Spring Specialties) only makes progressive
rate springs. They calculate what you need to replace the original
linear rate springs very well. I've used them, and always recommend
them. The variable rates are a bit soft at first, but "tighten up" as
they compress. Real nice road feel and handling! 

For sway bars on the old cars, I switch to a front mount. The last one I
used is on my car now. It's a 3/4" or 7/8" bar from a six cylinder
Concord. I placed the mounts on the front rails where it needed to be,
then drilled entirely through the rails, top to bottom. Make a metal
plate for the top to spread the load, then drop long bolts through. You
might need to make a spacer for the bottom. Mine cleared, but the low
mount alternator on the 4.0L I have will sometimes touch the bar if the
engine is running rough. I don't think a V-8 would come near the bar. 

I did have to modify the bar. The mounting points on the Classic control
arms were in further than the Concord. The "arms" on the Concord bar
were angled out to meet the mounting points. Ideally, the mounting point
further out is better, but you'll find your shocks mounted where the
Concord bar wants to be. I put the bar in a hydraulic press and
straightened the "arms". DO NOT heat the bar to straighten or bend! That
takes the temper out, making it useless as a sway bar. 

You can mount any bar this way from any car that will fit the rails and
match the lower arm mount points. The Concord bar is just wide enough to
mount on the rails. A smaller car probably won't. An American bar should
fit, as well as a 68-69 Javelin. I haven't tried them, so you may want
to get a measurement before ordering one. 

As far as a rear bar is concerned, a Concord or Eagle bar should fit. Or
get a universal type that clamps to the rear axle. You'll have to
fabricate body mounts, but that should be easy. I don't run a rear bar.
Stiffer springs and good shocks will probably be all you need in the
back. If you do go with a rear bar, remember that it needs to be smaller
than the front by 3/8"-1/4". A 1/2" rear bar and 7/8" or 3/4" front bar
is a good match. 
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