Re: [Amc-list] Re; Radiators

["Widiker, John D" <john.widiker@xxxxxxx>]

Cross flow of the correct width is 19 inches high, that height allows
for mounting higher or lower for the reduced height cars. The
inlet/outlet are going to be in slightly different locations then stock
(few inches), I'll have the hoses that fit available and will also
supply a part number for people who wish to source their own. I think I
can accommodate both with the same rad. I'm going to look for someone
local (s/e Michigan) to measure against more cars then just the AMXs I
have around. In front or behind mounting I can accommodate as well it's
just going to require getting my hands on something with the other
scheme.

~John

-----Original Message-----
From: amc-list-bounces@xxxxxxxxxxxx
[mailto:amc-list-bounces@xxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of John Elle
Sent: Tuesday, January 30, 2007 11:05 PM
To: amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [Amc-list] Re; Radiators

 
List
Snip
Drag rules call for a catch can, but I would think the low tank rad
would need a true recovery system.
 
It seems inappropriate to not have one anyways, except for showable
originals. Who wants to have to refill a radiator all the time? That
juice is expensive! I'd bet those buying a fancy radiator have already
added one. They're only 10 bucks.
Snip
 
When I lived in Southern California and as my original Blackstone
radiator became progressively more plugged on my Donohue it got to the
point on those 90 degree plus days that having the radiator full to the
top was the difference between running hot or not. Of course as water
expanded from the heat it would dribble out through the over flow and
the car would run hot. 
So I installed a catch can! ($10.00 sounds about right) It kept things
going for quite a while until I moved to Arizona. 110 degree heat plus
is a whole 'nother matter. 
I pulled my 160 thermostat and installed a 145 degree unit. A new
radiator cap, and eventually a Kwick Kooler Water pump and modified the
thermostat for increased coolant flow. I also installed open chamber
heads that reduced the compression to about 9.5:1 That finally got
things back under control. (Mostly) But as Tom pointed out, keeping
things from running too hot also keeps pinging and pre-ignition problems
down. As summer rolled around I had to run the timing a bit late to keep
from pinging but winter was o.k., until--------------I sprung a leak in
the core of my Original Blackstone radiator. 
A check to Jeff Kennedy at Kennedy American got a Desert Kooler radiator
by return mail and installed. 
SHAZAAM as they say!
The heat gauge stays pegged at the bottom of the normal run mark. My
guess is that is 145 degrees as that thermostat is still in there. The
only time I saw it move above that point is when I got caught in traffic
and it was 121 degrees. It was about 15 miles on the freeway in stop and
stop traffic. It got a bit warm that day. 
On the Donohue, a 390 I run a 145 degree thermostat modified for
increased water flow, a kwick kooler water pump, an AMC fan shroud
(metal), the stock AMC fan, a 16# radiator cap and an over flow tank. I
can run all the distributor advance that 91 octane gasoline will allow
me to run year around with no problems. 
On the 80 AMX I run a 170 degree thermostat, a fresh larger A/C
radiator, stock water pump, a 12 # radiator cap and a fan shroud. It
handles the heat well. 
On the 80 Spirit I run a 195 degree thermostat as the fuel injection
does not like things cooler, a rebuilt 3 core A/C radiator, stock water
pump, a 12#  radiator cap, a stock fan and a fan shroud. It will run
cool in heavy traffic with the A/C running. 
By the way, all three of these cars compete in various shows. You are
not going to run into much of a problem unless you are competing at a
deep pockets show and in 20 years of showing, I have never attended one
of those.
John. 
 
 
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