Re: [AMC-List] Trans for 72 232 six (manual controller for AW4)

["Swygert, Francis G MSgt 436 CES/CECM" <Francis.Swygert3@xxxxxxxxxxxx>]

To make a totally manual controller for the AW4 you just need a few
things:
1. the pin-out for the controller connector (I have this for the
stand-alone controller, if you need it contact me!). 
2. the solenoid shift sequence (#1 on #2 off is 1st, both on 2nd, #1 off
#2 on 3rd, both off 4th).
3. switches -- you can go one of two ways, use a pair of toggle switches
for the solenoids (the hard way, you can miss a shift!) OR use a four
position rotary switch and a couple diodes. You don't have to have a
switch for the lock-up converter if using a Jeep valve body. Just
connect power to the lock-up pin and leave it. The Jeep valve body locks
up the converter immediately after shifting gears, but does not lock up
in first. Just remember to shift to first when coming to a stop. The
trans only brakes in the top two gears (2-3 in drive, 3-4 in OD), so you
can shift down to first from 80 mph with no problem at all -- you just
have to rev the heck out of the engine to engage the trans. So you want
to keep it in a gear close to your speed in case you have to move fast.
I have a toggle for the converter lock-up, but leave it on nearly all
the time. For street driving that's the preferred way -- less wear and
tar on the trans, less heat in the fluid, and better mileage. No real
advantage in acceleration under normal driving, but you can run a little
more rpm without the lock-up if drag racing. If you try to come to a
stop in anything but first gear you'll feel the shudder -- just as if
trying to stop a manual trans car without pushing in the clutch. In that
case quickly switch to first.
4. A box to hold the switch, fuse for the power wire, and four lengths
of 16 gauge wire. 

Once the switch is wired I just tinned the ends of the wire and inserted
them into the proper holes on the female connector (trans side, of
course). You can buy a totally manual controller from IPT
(http://www.importperformancetrans.com/toyotaauto.shtml#main) for $479,
or a switchable controller (manual or use computer) for $569. I'll make
you one for $100, ready to install, shipping paid ;>. Their's uses push
buttons, so it's easy to miss a shift (push the wrong button). Mine is a
rotary switch -- easy to know where you are by feel! It's not that hard
to make a switchable controller, but on the newer OBDII (and possibly
OBDI) models switching will cause a trouble light to come on and code to
be stored. On the Renix system it's not a problem. Better yet, here's
the controller I wanted to make, but someone beat me to it! It uses
momentary switches to shift up and down, so can be used with steering
wheel buttons (http://awshifting.com/index.html). It's also a reasonable
$130, but you need to supply a couple toggle and momentary switches, and
LEDs for gear indication. 

Because you can miss a shift or have to take your eyes off the road to
know what gear you're in I really like my rotary switch better. It's
easy to use IF you have a console with arm rest (position switch where
you hand naturally lies on it) and you can easily tell what gear you're
in by feel (knob has a pointer on it). I do it naturally now! The
up/down switch method works better if you want to mount switches on the
gear shift handle or steering wheel. I'd also mount four LEDs on top of
the dash or on the instrument cluster so you know what gear you're in
though. I can switch gears faster with the rotary switch, and actually
start off in any gear. There are advantages/disadvantages to both. I
find the rotary the best arrangement, but haven't tried the up/down two
button deal. I think the chance of not knowing what gear you're in or
accidentally pressing a button is a big disadvantage though. No, it's
not just because I "invented" the rotary switch!! I have no problem
dropping my own stuff if I find something better! 

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