AMC-List Digest, Vol 10, Issue 38
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AMC-List Digest, Vol 10, Issue 38
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- Date: Mon, 20 Nov 2006 03:09:55 +0000
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Today's Topics:
1. header collectors and other stuff (Armand Eshleman)
2. Re: Weird non-running issue with '82 Jeep CJ SOLVED! (Nick Lenarz)
3. Re: header collectors and other stuff (Mark Price)
4. Re: header collectors and other stuff (Tom Jennings)
5. Re: Weird non-running issue with '82 Jeep CJ SOLVED!
(Tom Jennings)
6. Re: Weird non-running issue with '82 Jeep CJ SOLVED! (Ken Ames)
7. Re: #1 amc dealer in america (Larry R. Daum)
8. Here's a Tip (JOE FULTON)
9. Re: ebay jav #1 amc dealer in america (farna@xxxxxxx)
10. ebay items (Richard Estermyer)
11. Re: Weird non-running issue on '82 Jeep CJ (Ken Siroonian)
12. 1967 Rambler Ambassador Yellow Jackets (Steve Johnston)
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Message: 1
Date: Sun, 19 Nov 2006 10:24:30 -0600
From: "Armand Eshleman" <aje1@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: [AMC-List] header collectors and other stuff
To: <amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Message-ID: <001f01c70bf7$30fa82e0$6601a8c0@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
hello everybody,
First off let me thank everyone who replies to any of my questions, past
present and future.
Questions.........................
1. Will a three inch Hooker collector fit a three inch flange on a set of
Hedman Headers??
2. What is best for header gaskets, the old fiber type or the new copper
type?? any one had any experience with these??
3. Is it smart to use stainless bolts with a allen socket head or better to
use the smaller hex head type header bolts?
Antisieze lube of course.
Non related question, back to speedometers and the bouncy needle............
1. The speedo cable is not bound, crimped or bent in too small a radius.....
is there something inside the speedo itself that may be causing the needle
to bounce under 30 mph.
2. Should I just buy a brand new speedo cable and start over with that??? is
it possible the cable is not rotating smoothly until it reaches a certain
rpm???
Thanks,
Armand
------------------------------
Message: 2
Date: Sun, 19 Nov 2006 08:55:09 -0800 (PST)
From: Nick Lenarz <n9viw@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: [AMC-List] Weird non-running issue with '82 Jeep CJ
SOLVED!
To: amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Message-ID: <271116.923.qm@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1
Well, I think I have it pinned.
Following are the various suggestions I received over the last week
from CJ-8.com, CJOffroad.com, the AMC List, and others, and my
findings:
* A huge vacuum leak: Nope. Manifolds tight to head, thanks to Stage 8
locking fasteners. Gave em a snuggin' anyway, but they didn't move
much. Manifold gaskets intact. Gaskets on the carb side are intact, and
new gaskets are used each time the carb comes off. Carb is tight, and
recently deep-cleaned and rebuild kitted. Compression ranges from
150-160 cold. EGR valve doesn't work, but it's securely closed and is
tightly mounted with a new gasket. All vacuum ports in the intake are
capped.
* Timing issue: Nope. The non-running problem persists regardless of
timing, but ignition spark is strong and blue-white at .050" gap. I may
pull the distributor again to re-verify #1 TDC and ensure the mech
weights haven't stuck open or closed, but I was just in the dist
recently to clean and lube the weights, and didn't have a problem
putting it all back the way it was.
* Carb (MC2100) dirty: Nope. I have cleaned the carb three times now,
with another rebuild kit. All tiny holes were cleared with copper wire,
carb cleaner, and compressed air. All gaskets are new. 16" power valve
is new and intact. Manual choke operates properly. No excessive leakage
at throttle shaft, shaft rotates smoothly. All vacuum ports tightly
capped. Air cleaner on/off during testing makes no difference.
So, you may ask, where does the "solved" part of it come in? In spite
of all the suggestions, my initial suspicion was correct: it was the
carb, after all.
On the 18th, I swapped the Weber 32/36 from the wife's '82 CJ-7 on to
my CJ-8, with new adapter gaskets. It fired up on the first try, and
ran smoothly, with no bobbling or hesitation off-idle (the MC2100's
problem area), all the way up to 3500 RPM.
I took the Weber off and installed an old stepper-equipped Carter BBD a
guy on the CJ-8.com site sent to me. It was dirty inside and out,
carbon-coated in the throat and grimy on the outside. After filling the
float bowl, it fired right up- actually startled me a bit, as I
expected it wouldn't run at all. It had a serious problem idling (I
chalked that up to dirty idle tubes), but was strong and steady from
off-idle to 3500 RPM.
The Carter has since been soaked for 10 hours in Berryman's Carb Dip,
all ports cleaned with toothbrush, copper wire, and compressed air. I
plan to drill the idle tubes out to .035" (an idle improvement
suggested by several sites chronicling the BBD rebuild), and cap the
air ports to the stepper motor with JB Weld and set screws, so I can
remove and block off the stepper motor port.
I may inspect, re-clean, and try the MC2100 again, but I don't hold out
much hope. For right now, I'm going to finish the BBD and install that,
and maybe work on getting another Weber. I know many people have
claimed the MC2100 is the best thing since electronic ignition for the
258, but I remain unconvinced, at least of the unit I received.
Thanks to all for the suggestions,
Nick
____________________________________________________________________________________
Sponsored Link
Don't quit your job - take classes online
www.Classesusa.com
------------------------------
Message: 3
Date: Sun, 19 Nov 2006 9:21:08 -0800
From: Mark Price <markprice242@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: [AMC-List] header collectors and other stuff
To: amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Cc: Armand Eshleman <aje1@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Message-ID: <32249981.1163956868484.JavaMail.root@web11>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8
I think you will find the collectors will fit, but, I could be wrong.
I use a "dead soft aluminum" gasket in my 2.5" single collector on my 4.0L.
It's been in place for 3-4 years with no issues at all and I welded the collector flanges on with my MIG so that tells how flat they are! :] Got the gaskets from Summitt.
When you use stainless, do not get the crimped self locking nut type! They will gaul up and break the bolt! Ask me how I know! Use plain old Hardware store good grade stainless and anti sieze or anitsieze and steel. The Stainless is too soft for the crimp type self locking nuts! Major PIA when they sieze up !
Now I'm Rambling on! Sorry! Kind of lets you know how bad a PIA it is to wrestle them till they snapoff!
--
Mark Price
markprice242ATadelphia.net
Morgantown, WV
---- Armand Eshleman <aje1@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
> hello everybody,
>
> First off let me thank everyone who replies to any of my questions, past
> present and future.
>
> Questions.........................
>
> 1. Will a three inch Hooker collector fit a three inch flange on a set of
> Hedman Headers??
>
> 2. What is best for header gaskets, the old fiber type or the new copper
> type?? any one had any experience with these??
>
> 3. Is it smart to use stainless bolts with a allen socket head or better to
> use the smaller hex head type header bolts?
> Antisieze lube of course.
>
> Non related question, back to speedometers and the bouncy needle............
>
> 1. The speedo cable is not bound, crimped or bent in too small a radius.....
> is there something inside the speedo itself that may be causing the needle
> to bounce under 30 mph.
> 2. Should I just buy a brand new speedo cable and start over with that??? is
> it possible the cable is not rotating smoothly until it reaches a certain
> rpm???
>
> Thanks,
>
> Armand
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> AMC-List mailing list
> AMC-List@xxxxxxxxxxxx
> http://www.amc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/amc-list
>
> or go to http://www.amc-list.com
------------------------------
Message: 4
Date: Sun, 19 Nov 2006 11:00:39 -0800 (PST)
From: Tom Jennings <tomj@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: [AMC-List] header collectors and other stuff
To: amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.64.0611191056380.13535@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII
On Sun, 19 Nov 2006, Armand Eshleman wrote:
> 1. The speedo cable is not bound, crimped or bent in too small a radius.....
> is there something inside the speedo itself that may be causing the needle
> to bounce under 30 mph.
> 2. Should I just buy a brand new speedo cable and start over with that??? is
> it possible the cable is not rotating smoothly until it reaches a certain
> rpm???
My particular speedo display head has a slightly bent cup;
the needle oscillates a bit at low speed and precisely 60mph.
I didn't mention it because it's more than unusual -- I bent
it when I was in there putting new dial faces on the gauges.
It's pretty obvious in my case; I can head a faint 'ding ding
ding ...', the flying magnet brushing the aluminum cup.
There's no real way for it to fail this way, other than
leaning on the cup.
------------------------------
Message: 5
Date: Sun, 19 Nov 2006 11:03:52 -0800 (PST)
From: Tom Jennings <tomj@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: [AMC-List] Weird non-running issue with '82 Jeep CJ
SOLVED!
To: amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.64.0611191102300.13535@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII
On Sun, 19 Nov 2006, Nick Lenarz wrote:
> * Carb (MC2100) dirty: Nope. I have cleaned the carb three times now,
> with another rebuild kit. All tiny holes were cleared with copper wire,
> carb cleaner, and compressed air. All gaskets are new. 16" power valve
> is new and intact. Manual choke operates properly. No excessive leakage
> at throttle shaft, shaft rotates smoothly. All vacuum ports tightly
> capped. Air cleaner on/off during testing makes no difference.
It sounds like something is missing, broken, binding, etc,
like some dynamic problem with the float or whatever. Sounds
like you know what you are doing and the carb is clean.
The Motorcraft carbs work fine, you managed to get a bum
one. Damn bad luck!
------------------------------
Message: 6
Date: Sun, 19 Nov 2006 13:34:09 -0700
From: Ken Ames <ameskg@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: [AMC-List] Weird non-running issue with '82 Jeep CJ
SOLVED!
To: amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Message-ID: <1163968449.4560bfc10af9f@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
16" power valve? That means that its in enrichment mode at anything under 16"
vacuum. Should be more like 6". Could that be the problem?
Ken Ames
Quoting Tom Jennings <tomj@xxxxxxx>:
> On Sun, 19 Nov 2006, Nick Lenarz wrote:
>
> > * Carb (MC2100) dirty: Nope. I have cleaned the carb three times now,
> > with another rebuild kit. All tiny holes were cleared with copper wire,
> > carb cleaner, and compressed air. All gaskets are new. 16" power valve
> > is new and intact. Manual choke operates properly. No excessive leakage
> > at throttle shaft, shaft rotates smoothly. All vacuum ports tightly
> > capped. Air cleaner on/off during testing makes no difference.
>
> It sounds like something is missing, broken, binding, etc,
> like some dynamic problem with the float or whatever. Sounds
> like you know what you are doing and the carb is clean.
>
> The Motorcraft carbs work fine, you managed to get a bum
> one. Damn bad luck!
>
> _______________________________________________
> AMC-List mailing list
> AMC-List@xxxxxxxxxxxx
> http://www.amc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/amc-list
>
> or go to http://www.amc-list.com
>
------------------------------
Message: 7
Date: Sun, 19 Nov 2006 14:15:25 -0800
From: "Larry R. Daum" <mramc@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: [AMC-List] #1 amc dealer in america
To: mail@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Cc: d stohler <das24rules@xxxxxxxxx>
Message-ID: <6.2.0.14.0.20061119140734.0258ba88@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed
RE: #1 amc dealer in america
today, i dropped into the local dodge dealer just to look around at the new
jeep unlimited. as i turned around to leave, i saw this poster framed on the
wall, had a pic of a 4 door 62 classic, and a 63 classic wagon. i had to walk
over and take a look at it. the old gentleman that was talking to me said it
was the #1 selling amc dealership in the usa back in the day. Eddie Cordes
Dodge is the name of it now. has anyone ever heard anything about that
dealership being #1 in the country? they even still have an AMC logo sign
saying "Service Department---->" i thought that was pretty cool to be standin
there under all that with my old rambler infront of that sign and all. anyway,
i just wanted to know if anyone had heard of that, or if he was just tryin to
feed me some crap. you know sales guys are REAL good about doin that. he saw i
was driving a rambler. anyway, hope everyone is havin a great weekend.
frank,
having a good vacation?
dave stohler
Dave, et al.,
Not unless that dealer ship is in Texas! AMC had one dealership in Texas
that tied
up the rail shipping yard for 2 or 3 days at a time. The dealership
literally got shipped a train load of cars at one time. This dealership
sold some where in the neighborhood of two to three thousand cars a year. I
believe it was in Dallas, Texas or maybe Houston. Eddie Stakes would
probably know which dealership this was. LRDaum
------------------------------
Message: 8
Date: Sun, 19 Nov 2006 16:31:19 -0800 (PST)
From: JOE FULTON <piper_pa20@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: [AMC-List] Here's a Tip
To: amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Message-ID: <20061120003119.71091.qmail@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1
I put my 77 gremlin (258/auto) back together with the
rusty looking tranny cooling lines. I had never had a
tranny line leak before so I didn't really look
closely at the lines.
Wouldn't you know that as soon as I started the 258 I
noticed that one line has rust holes and was leaking.
I could have covered the rusty area with a piece of
hose, I suppose, but I intend to make this car a
dependable driver and I can't abide a scab patch. So
after letting the car sit, and dreading the job for
several weeks I spent nearly the whole afternoon
trying to remove the lines and replace them with clean
used replacements. The job did no disappoint me.
It's a pain. These things were not designed to be
removed easily with the engine and tranny in the car.
I had to drop the tranny mount, undo linkage, drop the
starter and raise the engine about one inch to get the
lines to clear.
So my tip is: Make sure you look over used parts
really well before assuming they are OK.
Joe Fulton
Salinas, CA
------------------------------
Message: 9
Date: Mon, 20 Nov 2006 02:59:35 +0000
From: farna@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: [AMC-List] ebay jav #1 amc dealer in america
To: mail@xxxxxxxxxxxx (AMC-List)
Cc: das24rules@xxxxxxxxx
Message-ID:
<112020060259.11848.45611A17000C11F700002E4821602810600E029D0E00@xxxxxxx>
Dave, get the Javelin if you must for the drivetrain. You should then part the car out rather than try to dirt track it. Leave the dirt track idea just in case no one wants the parts. The main reason I say this is not to save other Javelins, but because you'll beat the car up then need other parts (like fenders) yourself, and they are just to hard to come by. You might run the car a couple seasons if the locals aren't to rough before beating it to bad.
I think I replied about newer power steering on an older car. The Javelin setup will work just fine that way. Don't count on using the Javelin steering column though. It's a collapsible design, but much different than later models. It's of a fixed length, doesn't have an adjustable intermediate shaft between the column base and steering box. I found a few photos of my steering conversion, planning on using it for an article in a near future AMC -- the DEC 06 or MAR 07 issue.
--
Frank Swygert
Publisher, "American Motors Cars"
Magazine (AMC)
For all AMC enthusiasts
http://farna.home.att.net/AIM.html
(free download available!)
------------------------------
Message: 10
Date: Thu, 16 Nov 2006 14:09:12 -0500
From: "Richard Estermyer" <javelinman74@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: [AMC-List] ebay items
To: mail@xxxxxxxxxxxx, amcrambler@xxxxxxxxxxx, amcsob@xxxxxxxxx,
cymier@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx, diatom2@xxxxxxxxxxx, digby30@xxxxxxxxx,
greg_taylor@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx, havekost@xxxxxxx, jameswajda@xxxxxxx,
javelinman74@xxxxxxxxxxx, jimmadis9@xxxxxxxxxxx, joeyp@xxxxxxxxxxx,
kgardner@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, kmorgeson1@xxxxxxxxxxx,
loud-family@xxxxxxx, Mark.Danielsen@xxxxxxx, marlin@xxxxxxxxxxx,
MLYNCH1@xxxxxxxxxxx, pandkfrancis@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx,
polkamx69@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, javmanamcpres@xxxxxxxxx,
raslater@xxxxxxxxxxxxx, rdecrease@xxxxxxxxxxxxx,
Rick.Jones@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, rrogers74@xxxxxxxxxxx,
eddiestakes@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, teamfour2@xxxxxxxxxxx
Message-ID: <BAY106-F1176F22AA02198BB1F0028DDE90@xxxxxxx>
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed
Just a reminder that the AMC $5 hats have a day plus a few hours left. Tha
AMC $9 shirts and many, many other autos have 3 days left to go. Large
listing of auto things, check em out and thanks for the advertising.
Have a great weekend!
Richard
Richard Estermyer
PhotoGraphics
6235 S. Mohawk Avenue
Ypsilanti, MI 48197
734.483.5138
734.417.9456 cell
javelinman74@xxxxxxxxxxx
_________________________________________________________________
View Athlete?s Collections with Live Search
http://sportmaps.live.com/index.html?source=hmemailtaglinenov06&FORM=MGAC01
------------------------------
Message: 11
Date: Thu, 16 Nov 2006 23:40:25 -0500
From: Ken Siroonian <KSiroonian@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: [AMC-List] Weird non-running issue on '82 Jeep CJ
To: amcrelay@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Message-ID:
<ADVANCES62xc1o8yfog0000004f@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Content-Type: text/plain
Assume it is a BBD like other amc cars of the era, since 80 if they
have any dirt in the carb or vac leaks they will not run right. I hear
they get dirty easily and thats a major cause of the issue. though my
81 concord with the bbd is running good at the moment. I use shell gas
as it has the most detergents, highest percent over the government
standard of any fuel sold here in the east. I have a list of those
fuels with the most deteregents and will try to publish it soon. I
really wonder what this new ethanol fuel 10% mix is doing to our older
cars fule tanks, lines and hoses. Any way, maybe it is a candidate for
the Nutter bypas, or how about that stepper motor in the back of the
carburetor that is acting up, stuck or not connected properly? I think
that when the ignition is turned on and you look down the carb you
shoudl be able to see the motor move the needle in, out and then in
again. just a thought.
regards.
On November 16, 2006 Nick Lenarz wrote:
> I've been up and down the list looking for clues, but nothing that
> sounds like the problem I'm having, so here's my first post to the
> group.
> The patient: 1982 Jeep CJ-8 Scrambler, 258 I-6 bored .040 in '98,
> fitted with Comp Cams #252h (P/N 68-200-4) and a Cloyes Tru-Roller
kit
> set to the 3* advanced notches. Intake and exhaust are stock, with a
> glasspack and Catco 400CFM cat on the exh. and a recently cleaned
and
> rebuilt Motorcraft 2100 (1.08 bore with #48 jets, 16" PV) on the
int.
> Ignition has been converted to a GM HEI module coupled to the stock
> Motorcraft distributor and Ford TFI upgrade kit (cap, adapter,
plugs,
> coil). Bosch Platinums have been gapped to .050.
> The symptoms: Engine won't stay running. It starts fine, but dies
> off instantly. I can keep it running if I 'blip' the throttle, but if
I
> hold it constant, it runs for a few seconds, then dies off quickly.
> This occurs at any throttle position/RPM, almost as if it's running
out
> of gas, but it's as sudden as turning the key off. Changing plug gap
> has no effect.
> On the occasions I can get it to idle, it will not run without
the
> idle mix screws backed out at least 4 turns and the choke mostly
> closed. When tuning, it will run at 6-8* BTDC, but acts like it's
way
> retarded (snapping back into the exhaust manifold). If I tune for
best
> idle/vac, it runs better, but the timing is off the rack (24*+) and
it
> dies as soon as I go off-idle.
> I've been told I have a vacuum leak, and the vacuum IS low (max
of
> 16 inHg) but I'm hard-pressed to find one. The manifolds are tight
to
> the engine, and have Stage 8 locking fasteners on them. The MC2100
is
> bolted to the intake with a custom-milled adapter made from 1" thick
> billet aluminum. The choke vacuum port in the base of the carb has
been
> epoxied shut, with a machine screw threaded in for good measure. The
> heater plate in the intake is intact, the EGR valve doesn't work but
is
> definitely closed (checked it by blowing thru the intake port and
> pressing on the pintle to open and close the valve). The manifold
> vacuum port above the EGR valve has teflon tape on the threads and
is
> very tight, and has been capped during testing.
>
> Any suggestions are much appreciated, I'm just stumped.
>
> Thanks,
> Nick
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________
____________
> Sponsored Link
>
> Mortgage rates near 39yr lows.
> $420k for $1,399/mo. Calculate new payment!
> www.LowerMyBills.com/lre
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------------------------------
Message: 12
Date: Fri, 17 Nov 2006 19:17:01 -0500
From: Steve Johnston <SJohn89715@xxxxxxx>
Subject: [AMC-List] 1967 Rambler Ambassador Yellow Jackets
To: amcrelay@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Message-ID:
<ADVANCES62lgxCrG5zH00000119@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Content-Type: text/plain
Hi,
Steve up here with the Northern Ramblers Car Club up in Canada. One of
our Club Members has a 1967 Ambassador 880 that appears to have all of
the correct features of a limited edition 1967 Ambassador 880, named
the Yellow Jacket, 100 of which, I am told, were built for the New York
City Car Show at the Kenosha Plant. The door tag has the correct
Hialeah Yellow paint code. Can anyone shed more light, or information,
on this special edition model and, in particular, was it coded in any
way to the VIN? Probably not, as AMC never did this with other limited
edition models like the Mark Donahue Javelins. Any help would be
appreciated. Thanks.
Steve Johnston.
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End of AMC-List Digest, Vol 10, Issue 38
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