AMC-List Digest, Vol 10, Issue 20
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AMC-List Digest, Vol 10, Issue 20
- From: amc-list-request@xxxxxxx
- Date: Wed, 08 Nov 2006 19:51:21 +0000
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Today's Topics:
1. Re: IM HOME FROM IRAQ!!! (farna@xxxxxxx)
2. On vacation... (farna@xxxxxxx)
3. Valving (Brien Tourville)
4. 304's near ok (d stohler)
5. Tool, Shop, Equipment and Fabrication Website (Brien Tourville)
6. Re: Pacer trany (Jim Blair)
7. Re: Disc rear interchanges/Was/Re: speaking of carburetors
(Jim Blair)
8. Re: IM HOME FROM IRAQ!!! (Jim Blair)
9. combination valve (Wayne E LaMothe)
10. Re: IM HOME FROM IRAQ!!! (Sandwich Maker)
11. Re: combination valve (Tom Jennings)
12. 59 Rambler (russ hathaway)
13. AMC wheels (russ hathaway)
14. welding an axle (russ hathaway)
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Message: 1
Date: Wed, 08 Nov 2006 12:19:45 +0000
From: farna@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: [AMC-List] IM HOME FROM IRAQ!!!
To: amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx (AMC-List)
Cc: d stohler <das24rules@xxxxxxxxx>
Message-ID:
<110820061219.14785.4551CB610005704F000039C121612436460E029D0E00@xxxxxxx>
Welcome back! Hope you're not tasked to go back six months from now like some of the Army folks have been. A neighbors son is getting out. Just over three years in the Army now, and he likes it, but 24 of those 36+ months have been in Iraq. He went throught training, which took about six months, was in the unit for six months, then sent to Iraq for a year. Got back for about six months, then sent BACK to Iraq for a year. Has a year left, and they want him to reenlist and go to Afghanistan for a year after six months back again. I don't blame him -- six months home/one year away on a regular basis is just to much, especially for a green troop. I know all units aren't getting hit so hard, hope yours is one of those and you're home for at least a year! Could be because he's single too.
Anyway -- you can play with Ford and Chrysler front wheel drive front rotors that slip on the hub. Four wheel drives do also, and the Jeep Cherokee rotor is a good candidate, but as I recall they are about 2" deep and the center might bnot be big enough for the front hub to fit in. You can get Wilwood rotors with steel hats in various depths, that might be the way you have to go. I'm not sure if the MII rotor mount is adaptable to the Rambler, but I'm sure you'll find out and let us know!
Even if it doesn't fit, try to take pics of the unmodified mount and what you try, then post them. Might give someone else an idea for you to try, and if nothing else will show the rest of us what doesn't work. We need to share "this won't work" info as much as "this does work"! Without pics though some of use will still try it just to see WHY it doesn't work. I've been told a lot of things won't work but when I go to put them together find a way -- sometimes easy. To some people "won't work" just means it won't bolt up with no mods, but I find if I move a bolt hole or make a simple spacer/adapter... I'll be just as happy to print a photo documented "doesn't work" article in AMC as well. Sounds a little strange I know, but even that is good info, and by printing it there's a better chance it will survive. That's the main reason I print the little magazine -- with 200 copies out there several are likely to survive as documentation for a lot longer than I do -- and/or my memo!
ry (or
any of the rest of us who try to collect info and "know-it-all" about AMC!).
Your valve guides are likely fine, it's the valve stem seals. They harden with age then eventually break away. A bit of oil pools around the guide when the car is sitting, so you get a puff of oil smoke when you start it up. When you run it hard more oil si splashed near the valve guide and with no seal the engine sucks more past the guide. You can replace the seals without pulling the engine. Just make sure you run each piston up to TDC before removing the keepers and springs to replace the seals. That way if you drop a valve it doesn't go far and you ccan pull it back up. The 196 has domed pistons, you won't lose a valve. If you're concerned get about four feet of 1/4" nylon rope. With the piston down fish about half of it in the spark plug hole then run the piston up as far as it will go. You won't reach TDC before the rope compresses. Or use 2.5-3' of parachute cord if you have any left from your trip.
--
Frank Swygert
Publisher, "American Motors Cars"
Magazine (AMC)
For all AMC enthusiasts
http://farna.home.att.net/AIM.html
(free download available!)
------------------------------
Message: 2
Date: Wed, 08 Nov 2006 12:26:50 +0000
From: farna@xxxxxxx
Subject: [AMC-List] On vacation...
To: amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx (AMC-List)
Message-ID:
<110820061226.19967.4551CD0A0003535C00004DFF21612436460E029D0E00@xxxxxxx>
I won't be on the list so much for the next week and a half, going on "vacation" to S.C.!! I'll be working on my shop, that's as AMC related as it gets!! I'll try to check in a few times while there though.
--
Frank Swygert
Publisher, "American Motors Cars"
Magazine (AMC)
For all AMC enthusiasts
http://farna.home.att.net/AIM.html
(free download available!)
------------------------------
Message: 3
Date: Wed, 08 Nov 2006 08:35:16 -0500
From: "Brien Tourville" <hh7x@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: [AMC-List] Valving
To: mail@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Message-ID: <455196C4.26611.2A1F19B@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
http://www.pattakon.com/vvar/index.html
=Bt=
milnersXcoupe
"The Heretic"
------------------------------
Message: 4
Date: Wed, 8 Nov 2006 06:24:36 -0800 (PST)
From: d stohler <das24rules@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: [AMC-List] 304's near ok
To: amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Message-ID: <20061108142436.66658.qmail@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1
jesse, let me know how much and WHEN. i prefer one that is running right now. i dont have the time to do a complete rebuild right now. want one as complete as possible that runs healthy. thanks
dave stohler
---------------------------------
Access over 1 million songs - Yahoo! Music Unlimited.
------------------------------
Message: 5
Date: Wed, 08 Nov 2006 10:02:02 -0500
From: "Brien Tourville" <hh7x@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: [AMC-List] Tool, Shop, Equipment and Fabrication Website
To: mail@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Message-ID: <4551AB1A.25738.2F15F42@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
http://www.toolandfab.com/
=Bt=
milnersXcoupe
"The Heretic"
------------------------------
Message: 6
Date: Wed, 08 Nov 2006 08:17:10 -0800
From: "Jim Blair" <carnuck@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: [AMC-List] Pacer trany
To: amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Message-ID: <BAY114-F142EB6F8E92DFA8D67AB75ACF10@xxxxxxx>
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed
To see for sure if the trans is a lockup, drop the pan and look on top of
the valvebody for the "S" shaped tube about 5/16" diameter (average pencil
size). No tube means no lockup. Also, if you have the torque converter off,
there is a deep hole (about 1/3 the way up the shaft into the trans) in the
middle of the input shaft on lockup trans. Hole is only 2" or so deep on
non-lockup. (fluid travels up the hole to the lockup clutch in the
converter)
As for upshift, 27 mph to drive is normal. Lockup shouldn't engage till
42 mph (and I put the replacement spring in mine to make it lockup at 52 mph
for towing). When the lockup was going bad in my Eagle, I dropped the
valvebody and put a large (well, about 5/16" diameter) ball bearing in the
tube to stop the lockup. In hindsight, I would rather have put an electric
lockout I could manually control on the tube so I could keep the fuel
economy and freeway speed when I wasn't towing, but I had planned a 727
upgrade anyways.
With what I know now, and AW4 would be going in there! (I even have one
from a '95 or '96 XJ with only 60,000 kilometers on it sitting on my for
sale stuff shelf as I ended up with a motor trans combo I wasn't expecting
for my '84 J10)
Speaking of AW4, the pilot bearing of my BA 10/5 in my '87 Comanche
started jamming last night and I want to get on the auto conversion, but I
STILL have the '92 Grand Voyager I've been trying to sell for $200 in the
garage I need! (I may end up having to fix it as a backup vehicle tomorrow!)
Jim Blair, Seattle, WA '84 J10 Black Jack (getting lifted and stroked!), '73
J4000 304/TH400/QT tow truck http://www.virtualjeep.com
AMC list subscription options link
http://www.amxfiles.com/amc-list/options.cfm
From: Ken Ames <ameskg@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: [AMC-List] Pacer trany
To: amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Message-ID: <1162970684.4551863ca1d86@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
The 79 304/998 had a lockup but he 258/904 was locked up in 80.
There's no switch needed. It's all internal in the trans - 3rd
gear and 30 some
MPH.
Ken
Quoting Sandwich Maker <adh@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>:
>" From: Jim Shadwick <idahoamx@xxxxxxxxx>
>" " " 1. Does a 75 258 Pacer have a lockup tranny.....
>" " 2. I have a 76 258 with auto attached....not sure what it
came out
>" of....will it fit...is it a lockup
>
>i don't think lockups appeared until the early '80s, so your
two
>trannies should be identical. even so a lockup should be an
easy
>swap. the only new thing should be the lockup switch.
>
________________________________________________________________________
>Andrew Hay
_________________________________________________________________
Try Search Survival Kits: Fix up your home and better handle your cash with
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------------------------------
Message: 7
Date: Wed, 08 Nov 2006 08:19:18 -0800
From: "Jim Blair" <carnuck@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: [AMC-List] Disc rear interchanges/Was/Re: speaking of
carburetors
To: amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Message-ID: <BAY114-F1738FBB01112DCACC64DF7ACF10@xxxxxxx>
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed
A: The Eagle has fender flares and it's sprung over in the back so XJ wheels
fit fine. '82 Spirit is sprung under.
From: Russell Neyhart <rtneyhart@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: [AMC-List] Disc rear interchanges/Was/Re: speaking
of
carburetors
To: amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Message-ID: <4551AF87.7040907@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
After I bought my Eagle, I wanted a set of steel rims for snow
tires,
and a set of wider alloy rims for all-season tires. The steel
rims I
bought were from the Tire Rack for a Wrangler or Cherokee. The
alloys I
bought were from a Cherokee or Grand Cherokee. The rear axle's
spindles
stuck out of the center of the wheels by 1 to 1-1/4". I had
1-1/2"
spacers custom made. Pictures of the wheels on the car (before
and
after spacers) can be seen here:
http://home.earthlink.net/~rtneyhart/
Regards,
Russell Neyhart
1988 Eagle Wagon
Stroudsburg, Pa.
_________________________________________________________________
Add a Yahoo! contact to Windows Live Messenger for a chance to win a free
trip!
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------------------------------
Message: 8
Date: Wed, 08 Nov 2006 08:24:57 -0800
From: "Jim Blair" <carnuck@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: [AMC-List] IM HOME FROM IRAQ!!!
To: amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Message-ID: <BAY114-F19D1D66861F088BC709B4ACF10@xxxxxxx>
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed
A: Go try early XJ/Eagle rotors.
From: d stohler <das24rules@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: [AMC-List] IM HOME FROM IRAQ!!!
To: amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Message-ID:
<20061108022913.82400.qmail@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1
well amc friends, i am now home from iraq for good. got home,
changed, unloaded all my gear. stuck the key in my 62 classic,
pumped the go pedal about 2 times, and she fired RIGHT up.
nothin like gettin home from iraq, and goin for a cruise around
town with the wife next to me in the rambler. hehe.
so anyway. i think it was frank who mentioned the idea of
popping the hub off the front drum and finding a rotor that
would slip right over it and fabricating my own caliper mount. i
have a mustang II disk brake kit. the rotors/hubs will not fit
on my spindles. the bearings are all different and they are set
in about 1.5" to far. so i think im going to find a rotor that
will actually slip over my hub and modify my mustang II caliper
mounts. see how well all this turns out. i plan to let everyone
know what rotors i found that fit, and what i have to do to the
caliper mounts to make them fit when i get it all done.
hopefully it turns out nice.
i noticed when i fired it up this time however.... its burnin
oil now. i guess my valve guides are finally gone. has about
7500 miles in the last 5 years on unleaded fuel. i am unable to
get lead substitute aditive stuff here. cant find any atleast.
motor still runs good, just blows a cloud of smoke when i leave
the stoplight or at higher rpms if im sittin still and put my
foot in it. guess its time to get REAL serious about finding me
a 304 for the transplant. anyone got one they want to "donate"
to my cause?? lol. if anyone on the list has one they want to
get rid of, and only a few hours drive from lawton oklahoma im
interested. now that im home and have some time to kill.
dave stohler
finally home :->
_________________________________________________________________
Stay in touch with old friends and meet new ones with Windows Live Spaces
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------------------------------
Message: 9
Date: Wed, 8 Nov 2006 12:05:37 -0500
From: Wayne E LaMothe <superglider@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: [AMC-List] combination valve
To: amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Message-ID: <20061108.120537.1292.0.superglider@xxxxxxxx>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
I am trying to trace a problem in the brakes on my 83 Eagle. I am
getting premature (very) rear wheel lockup when braking. EVERYTHING but
the combo valve is new. My questions are these:
1. Is this a bendix or kelsey hayes valve?
2. Is there a centering pin? There seems to be but it does not move so
I think it is sending all the braking to the rear wheels.
Can anyone shed some light on this?
Thanks
Wayne
Wayne & Lisa (Skeezix), Bolton Landing, NY,
http://www.superglider.thinkhost.com/
AMO#8454, 83 Eagle Limited Wagon, 82 SX/4, 258 auto
69 Ambo coupe, 401, M12, 66 Ambo 990 Wagon, 327,PW,PB,PS,posi,AM/FM,AC
88 Jeep J10 360, auto- a Real truck
2001 Cherokee, 2000 Chrysler Cirrus (both hers)
------------------------------
Message: 10
Date: Wed, 8 Nov 2006 13:27:57 -0500 (EST)
From: adh@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx (Sandwich Maker)
Subject: Re: [AMC-List] IM HOME FROM IRAQ!!!
To: amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Message-ID: <200611081827.kA8IRvd14954@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
" From: d stohler <das24rules@xxxxxxxxx>
"
" []
"
" so anyway. i think it was frank who mentioned the idea of
" popping the hub off the front drum and finding a rotor that
" would slip right over it and fabricating my own caliper mount. i
" have a mustang II disk brake kit. the rotors/hubs will not fit
" on my spindles. the bearings are all different and they are set
" in about 1.5" to far. so i think im going to find a rotor that
" will actually slip over my hub and modify my mustang II caliper
" mounts. see how well all this turns out. i plan to let everyone
" know what rotors i found that fit, and what i have to do to the
" caliper mounts to make them fit when i get it all done.
" hopefully it turns out nice.
" From: "Jim Blair" <carnuck@xxxxxxxxxxx>
"
" A: Go try early XJ/Eagle rotors.
as well as eagles these were used on all 2wd and 4wd mj, xj, and yj
before '90. after that 2wd got a 1-piece hub/rotor, but they still
use the same #6/#2 bearings as amc.
________________________________________________________________________
Andrew Hay the genius nature
internet rambler is to see what all have seen
adh@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx and think what none thought
------------------------------
Message: 11
Date: Wed, 8 Nov 2006 10:29:05 -0800 (PST)
From: Tom Jennings <tomj@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: [AMC-List] combination valve
To: amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.64.0611081018590.10995@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII
On Wed, 8 Nov 2006, Wayne E LaMothe wrote:
> I am trying to trace a problem in the brakes on my 83 Eagle. I am
> getting premature (very) rear wheel lockup when braking. EVERYTHING but
> the combo valve is new. My questions are these:
>
> 1. Is this a bendix or kelsey hayes valve?
It's probably not a proportioning valve; it might only be
a combo valve that allows the brake-fail switch to see both
brake circuits.
> 2. Is there a centering pin? There seems to be but it does not move so
> I think it is sending all the braking to the rear wheels.
The switch, centering pin, etc have ZERO effect on brake
hydraulics. The combo valve has a little shuttle (that tilts
the switch pin) between front and rear circuits that can only
move slightly one way or another; it can't block fluid in either
circuit, even if it fails.
If you recently worked on the rear brakes, it might be
leading/trailing shoes are swapped, adjusters setup wrong,
or other left-right/front-rear parts reversed.
TESTING:
Personally, I like to think up tests to generate symptoms that
give better hints.
Have you pulled a rear drum to take a peek? If a spring breaks,
a shoe could be jamming into the drum.
Do both rear wheels lock up identically at the same time?
The "parking brake" is a handy way to quick-check the rear
brakes; cruising at 20mph or so, pull the release lever and
press the parking brake; the rear brakes should behave like a
regular manual brake pedal, except weaker and "mushier" since
it's a cable that stretches a bit. If they grab badly you know
it's not a hydraulic problem.
If it's all still puzzling, back of the adjusters on both
rear brakes way off, then drive the car slowly; the fronts
ought to be capable of stopping the car without pulling. The
pedal will feel soft and very low because the rears will not
be working well. If you have no pedal before you drive off,
with the back brakes backed off, it migt be that your fronts
are bad, but more likely a master cylinder problem.
------------------------------
Message: 12
Date: Wed, 8 Nov 2006 11:33:10 -0800 (PST)
From: russ hathaway <russh97309@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: [AMC-List] 59 Rambler
To: amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Message-ID: <553060.85671.qm@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1
Jay; I have found a 59 Classic to part out. I need a
few little thing for my own 59 but not enough to
justify buying the whole car, as they don't want to
part it out. If you want the radio, yes it is a push
button, plus some other things let me know. I can get
it for $100 and all I need are the door panels and one
tail light.......Russ
____________________________________________________________________________________
Want to start your own business?
Learn how on Yahoo! Small Business.
http://smallbusiness.yahoo.com/r-index
------------------------------
Message: 13
Date: Wed, 8 Nov 2006 11:45:22 -0800 (PST)
From: russ hathaway <russh97309@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: [AMC-List] AMC wheels
To: mail@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Message-ID: <20061108194522.81880.qmail@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1
I have run 225s on the 14 inch AMC rallys with no
problem. Depends on what chassis, of course, as post
69 cars can take the larger tire size- no trunnion
problems you know. The larger chassis=larger tire
allowed also. My 64 American is running 225-60x14s on
Ambassador steelies with Classic dog dishs and chrome
trim rings. I have no clearence issues. Don't forget
the chrome tire valve and 8 ball cap!!
Chryco cop car wheels come in 15x7, some are drilled
for the three volcano cap bolts and with trim
rings/cap combo they look real nice. If you are
patient you can take a dremel to the hub cap nubs and
smooth them out. Bolt pattern is all AMC, the off set
is right and swap meets have them for about $25 if you
look around.
I have a set on my Hornet and a lot of people ask what
my Rallys are off of.......Russ
____________________________________________________________________________________
Yahoo! Music Unlimited
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------------------------------
Message: 14
Date: Wed, 8 Nov 2006 11:51:15 -0800 (PST)
From: russ hathaway <russh97309@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: [AMC-List] welding an axle
To: amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Message-ID: <20061108195116.92787.qmail@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1
If the car is going to be used for performance welding
the hub is piece of cake for someone who knows what
they are doing, it isn't anything mysterious. Any
reputable performance shop or 4x4 shop can do it. If
they even balk at the job, walk to someone else.
I had mine done some years ago and it is peace of
mind.
Going the one piece axle route is best, of course, but
Jeepers have been welding the hubs for years.....Russ
____________________________________________________________________________________
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End of AMC-List Digest, Vol 10, Issue 20
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