Re: [AMC-List] torqu tube Q???

[farna@xxxxxxx]

Not likely a u-joint, as noted. If it's a sheared hub there's an easy way to find out -- just take the hub caps off the rear and look at the end of the axle when someone tries to move the car. If the nut turns the hub is sheared. Sounds like something inside the axle, could be a pinion shaft as happened to Tom J. 

I always jacke the car up by the center of the axle with a floor jack, put jack stands under the body just in front of the tires, then take the tires off. That greatly reduces how high the rear of the car has to be. Take shocks and brake lines loose before dropping the axle, of course. 

The air springs were an option in 59 and 60 only. The air springs will come out with the low rate coils. The air line screws into the upper spring seat. The spring is connected to the axle by a stud, so the springs don't just lift out like the standard springs will. You can turn the whole spring and screw it off once weight is off the springs and there is about an inch of clearance above the spring. Otherwise you'll have to jack the body up a lot more to get the axle (with springs attached) out. The lower seat (on the axle) will come off either with the spring or after the spring is removed. The stud that holds the spring on the axle also holds the lower seat on. A 3/8" fine thread bolt holds the lower seat on a regular spring car. Similar air springs are still available from Goodyear if those are damaged. There is a height control valve attached to the rear axle that keeps the car level. If that's damaged it may be a problem to replace. It is rebuildable, though I doubt par!
 ts can 
be found now. 

Note that the Concord and Eagle had a leveling system in the 80s, but it was totally different. It used an electric compressor with no air tank and typical air shocks instead of air bags. The height switch was a simple normally open switch that tripped a relay when closed. The relay turned on the compressor which ran until the  rear end came up enough to open the switch. The switch also controlled an air release solenoid, so it was a two contact switch. 

The air pump is designed to deliver 1 CFM of air at 150 psi at 50 mph cruising speed with a maximum output of 275 psi. The air tank is in the left fender well. It's 300 cubic inches. The entire system can be replaced by any air ride shop. If the compressor is bad I'd use an electric one -- that's why I gave the specs for the compressor. If you decide to do away with the air springs you MUST replace the coil springs with standard types. I'm pretty sure the upper and lower spring seats are the same, but the coils used with the air springs are very light and won't adequately support the car without the air springs in them. If any parts of the load leveling system are damaged Coil Spring Specialties (www.coilsprings.com) can make up a set of stock rate springs. Order them 15% stiffer than stock though, it will increase handling without sacrificing ride. Those old cars were made to run much lower speeds on much rougher roads than is typical today. You'll be impressed by the handl!
 ing wit
h stiffer springs and radial tires! The new springs will be varaible rate, meaning they stiffen the more they are compressed. 

Most auto parts stores sell air "helper" or overload springs. These ARE NOT the same as the air springs in the 59-60 cars. Those bags won't support nearly as much weight, they are designed to increase the load by fitting inside the normal springs. A leveling system could be made with that type, a compressor, and level sensing switch (or a couple micro switches). 

--
Frank Swygert
Publisher, "American Motors Cars" 
Magazine (AMC)
For all AMC enthusiasts
http://farna.home.att.net/AIM.html
(free download available!)

 -------------- Original message ----------------------
Date: Thu, 21 Sep 2006 07:57:13 -0700 (PDT)
From: J Johnson <imfatdad@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: [AMC-List] torqu tube Q???

I received the following inquiry from a guy on another message baord I
frequent.  I have never been into a torque tube, figured someone here
has.  I would like to know more about this as well....  

he writes:

I just got a 60 Rambler Deluxe Wagon i6 196 automatic, and I need to
get the torque tube off to replace the u-joint towards the rear
(transmission engages but car will not move, slight squeek sound can be
heard back there, was told by previous owner that it's the u-joint) . I
have a manual for the car and instructions say to raise the car in the
back, then disconnect the suspension bars and emergency brake lines
attached to the torque tube, then unbolt from rearend and you should be
able to pull tube away to have access to pinions and u-joint. Anything
I've read on the subject (including the manual) does not address the
air springs that are also connected to the axle. I've spent some time
underneath the car spraying bolts down with PB Blaster and preparing to
tackle the job, I guess I'm having a hard time visualizing what's
supposed to happen when I follow the instructions, particularly with
those springs. I'm a relative newbie, confident with engine, brakes,
etc., but this'd be my first time working on a drivetrain on a car.

If any of this makes sense and you have any help or advice you could
offer me, I'd greatly appreciate it!
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