AMC-List Digest, Vol 7, Issue 40

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Today's Topics:

   1. How to sell the Rambler? (Mike Kindle)
   2. craig's list free '68? javelin parts car near Seattle (Jim Blair)
   3. M-35/T-96 trans options (farna@xxxxxxx)


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Message: 1
Date: Sat, 19 Aug 2006 16:30:38 -0700
From: "Mike Kindle" <mike90066@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: [AMC-List] How to sell the Rambler?
To: amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Message-ID: <BAY113-F830CEF65C17511411354EFC430@xxxxxxx>
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed


You've seen the car, you've read the description.  My question is should I 
Ebay this car?  Or craigslist?  I want it to wind up with someone who will 
be comitted to it.  Suggestions welcome.  Thanks
Mike in Los Angeles
323-630-9376
Please forward to anyone who might be interested.  Thanks

http://s104.photobucket.com/albums/m166/65rambler/
65 Rambler American 232-6 Automatic transmission.
I?ve just moved and have to cut back on projects so the car is for sale.
I?ve had this car for four or five years and it has been the most dependable 
car I?ve owned.  Always fires right up and has never stranded me. There has 
always been a small rod-knock like sound on startup that goes away as the 
oil gets going.  I always let the car warm up good before driving and this 
noise has remained unchanged since I?ve had the car.
The biggest issue is it has developed a new noise, which I think is a flex 
plate going bad but it could be something else.  There is an arrhythmic 
noise on startup that quickly goes away and then a rattle when decelerating 
from high RPM.  I?ve been very gentle since the noise started, only short 
trips.
The car has the 232 inline six cylinder engine with the 2 barrel Carter WCD 
carb.
The car comes with a replacement front right fender and headlight surround 
for the crunched corner.  And I have a replacement windshield too.  And I 
have the front hubcaps which I took off when last doing the brakes.  There 
are new shoes all around, new wheel cylinders, and master cylinder.  The 
emergency brake works great. Gas gauge works.
I also completely removed, cleaned, and sealed the gas tank with the POR-15 
kit.
The car has four new Goodyear Regatta 2 tires.
I rebuilt the upper trunnions and upper control arms with the polyurethane 
kit.  The rest of the kit for the lower arms and rear comes with.
The previous owner took the drivers door panel off to try to fix the window 
which had left its track.  I fixed the window but haven?t put the door panel 
back on.  The door panel comes with.
The car has the usual floor rust under the driver?s foot and some under the 
trunk mat.
Over the last four years it has driven all over Los Angeles, Northern 
California, and up to Oregon.  The previous owner told me ?it once belonged 
to the mother of the guy who played the other guy on The Wonder Years.?




------------------------------

Message: 2
Date: Sat, 19 Aug 2006 20:24:27 -0700
From: "Jim Blair" <carnuck@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: [AMC-List] craig's list free '68? javelin parts car near
	Seattle
To: amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Message-ID: <BAY114-F302ACC1CFC50F50A4E146DAC400@xxxxxxx>
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed

saw it on the list earlier today but couldn't send from work.

_________________________________________________________________
Don?t just search. Find. Check out the new MSN Search! 
http://search.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200636ave/direct/01/



------------------------------

Message: 3
Date: Sun, 20 Aug 2006 06:35:53 +0000
From: farna@xxxxxxx
Subject: [AMC-List] M-35/T-96 trans options
To: amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Message-ID:
	<082020060635.5375.44E802C8000DE795000014FF21604666480E029D0E00@xxxxxxx>
	

A temp gauge would certainly be a great addition -- just keep an eye on it when in strenuous circumstances. But I'm not sure you can get the fluid "to cool". I know there is a point where it won't flow as well, but doubt it can be reached in an operating vehicle. Additional cooling has never hurt an auto trans, and will always increase its life span even if it never tows or carries much load. Some thermal paste and a heat sink would be cheap insurance, or really just some steel fins welded to the bottom of the pan. Take a piece of sheet metal and bend accordian style, then tack weld in front and back of the valleys. Might not add much cooling, but simple to do and definitely wouldn't hurt. 

While having a more modern trans would certainly be a benefit, you're hindered by the torque tube. I don't think a T-14 or T-15 will bolt right in, just the T-86 or T-89. Heavy duty, but still no synchro first. The T-96/OD will work fine, actually, as long as the no synchro first isn't a bother to you. I ran that combo behind a stock 4.0L for a year!! The only problem I had was the synchro, it didn't like more that twice the torque it was accustomed to and lasted only about 100 miles. After that it was double clutching and careful timing to shift until I got another trans lined up. As long as you're relatively easy on the car, the T-96 will work fine, and the OD will be even better. The OD isn't hard to keep up at all, but you do need the original type kick-down switch. You know enough electronics to be able to mimic the switch with a micro switch and a couple relays I'm sure, which would likely be a better route. Instead of grounding the coil I used a relay to kill power to!
  the ig
nition.

If you want to keep the auto, you really need to look for a model 36, 37, 42 or 43. The 36 and 37 are air cooled, but a little stronger than the 35. 36 was used for 66-69 199 engines, 37 for the 232. The tailshaft housing from the 35 should fit these, and the output shaft should be the same length. So converting to the torque tube won't be a problem. I think the 36 just has some internal differences, maybe just the valve body, but I seem to recall the 37 having provisions for an external liquid cooler. The 42 and 43 were used on the 199 and 232 (respectively) 70-71. I believe these are basically the same as the 36 and 37 except with liquid instead of air cooling. The tailshaft housing from the 35 should fit these also. You'll have to measure the tailshaft housing and overall length of the transmissions to make sure they will work with the torque tube just to make sure. 

Of course you have a vertical mill handy, don't you? Might be time to make a T-5 adapter for the bell and get a V-6 T-5. Those should be pretty inexpensive in salvage yards. Of course that would mean getting rid of the torque tube. So whittle out a "truck arm" conversion while you're at it... ;> 

--
Frank Swygert
Publisher, "American Motors Cars" 
Magazine (AMC)
For all AMC enthusiasts
http://farna.home.att.net/AIM.html
(free download available!)


----- original message -------------
Date: Sat, 19 Aug 2006 10:27:21 -0700 (PDT)
From: Tom Jennings <tomj@xxxxxxx>

But I really think a simple temp gauge on the thing will tell
a lot -- if it's not getting hot, cooling isn't needed! For me,
the simplicity is attractive -- I'll just slow down.


This coming winter, I have to decide what to do about mine
(torque tube M35 in 63 Classic Wagon). 

* Find someone to do drive in/drive out rebuild?
* Pull, drop off [where?], reinstall, in driveway? (ugh)
* Find core, have rebuilt [where?], swap in driveway? (ugh)
* Find manual-trans-not-T96, convert? (ugh) (but was manual car orig)


>From what I can tell, it's gonna cost me $800 - $1000 anyways
no matter what I do. I want it done right. I have a T96/OD
but I don't trust them.





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End of AMC-List Digest, Vol 7, Issue 40
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