AMC-List Digest, Vol 4, Issue 4
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AMC-List Digest, Vol 4, Issue 4
- From: amc-list-request@xxxxxxx
- Date: Tue, 02 May 2006 00:09:36 +0000
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Today's Topics:
1. Re: header bolts (Poncho7amx@xxxxxxx)
2. Re: More Valve Cover Woes (Tom Jennings)
3. Re: Valve covers are a bitch!!!! (Tom Jennings)
4. steering gear ratios, was Re: Two Requests (Tom Jennings)
5. Re: How to send plain text mess. through hotmail or msn....
(Tom Jennings)
6. Re: Door hinges...... (Tom Jennings)
7. Re: Restoring Plastic Emblems With Modeling Skills. (Mr. AMC)
8. Re: More Valve Cover Woes (John Elle) (Mr. AMC)
9. hornet/concord/eagle interchange question (Marty Bricker)
10. Re: Picked up a new project (Sandwich Maker)
11. Re: 85 Eagle auto drivetrain FS, Detroit area (Sandwich Maker)
12. brake wheel cylinder question (Eddie Stakes)
13. rare AMC for sale (Germany) (Wolfgang Mederle)
14. Re: steering gear ratios, was Re: Two Requests (Sandwich Maker)
15. Non AMC Power Steering Question (Robert Sliko)
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Message: 1
Date: Mon, 1 May 2006 15:31:04 EDT
From: Poncho7amx@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: [AMC-List] header bolts
To: amc-list@xxxxxxx
Message-ID: <31f.354fea8.3187bbf8@xxxxxxx>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
how do you keepem tight
------------------------------
Message: 2
Date: Mon, 01 May 2006 12:44:48 -0700
From: Tom Jennings <tomj@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: [AMC-List] More Valve Cover Woes
To: amc-list@xxxxxxx
Message-ID: <1146512687.7965.71.camel@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Content-Type: text/plain
On Mon, 2006-05-01 at 02:33, Mr. AMC wrote:
> Tom aren't you afraid of when the what ever is rubbing against the
> inside of the valve cover is going to put metal particles in the oil? If
> you take the valve cover off you should see where the rub is.
I drove it for 50 miles and it shut up. It was pretty subtle. The cover
is a PITA to get on/off, I'd have to order antoher gasket, etc...
I assume the new gasket is a few ten thou thinner. Cheap SOBs. It was a
Felpro brand.
> How
> did the valve cover fit against the firewall by the wiper motor? My
> friend had a 78 Concord AMX with a 258 4 speed and when he had the
> engine rebuilt the shop doing the work installed an aluminum valve
> cover and it looked like they got out the BMF mechanic's hammer and beat
> the firewall to death at the body seam under the wiper motor. It looked
> like a real hack job.
I didn't take a good photo of the mod, but you can just barely see it
here:
http://wps.com/AMC/1970-AMC-Hornet/images/engine-pluggy-side.jpg
from this page,
http://wps.com/AMC/1970-AMC-Hornet/May2005.html
describing "dropping in" a late 258 into the older chassis. Drop-in,
assuming of course you don't count modding the valve cover and moving
the engine/trans forward 1".
The modification was fairly easy (meaning under 4 hours). I took about
1" of height off the back end of the valve cover, about 2" in from the
back. A rectangular section, with a hacksaw. Filed it square. Then I
bent a piece of 3/16" aluminum in a simple "L" that bolted inside the
valve cover to block out the rectangular notch; filed the "L" 'til it
blocked out the cutout section neatly, then screwed and epoxied (JB Weld
or that other one like it, can't recall the brand) it smooth and level.
Once cured I painted it wrinkle black. It's a pretty kludge.
Still had to move the engine forward 1". I also drilled a 1/2" hole just
above that back valve cover bolt, inside the wiper motor box, so that I
can reach the bolt vertically with an allen wrench. No way you'd ever
get a wrench or nutdriver back there otherwise.
It's tight, but reliable, plenty of clearance, and servicable. Still
pisses me off though. I should have got an older head (I'm carbed) or
switched to EFI, but I didn't want to deal with the "oh, it's a drop-in"
issues regarding brakes, spring towers, etc...
------------------------------
Message: 3
Date: Mon, 01 May 2006 12:50:03 -0700
From: Tom Jennings <tomj@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: [AMC-List] Valve covers are a bitch!!!!
To: amc-list@xxxxxxx
Message-ID: <1146513003.7965.82.camel@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Content-Type: text/plain
Thanks for the tips! I never had the plastic cover for this motor (came
coverless). I did manage to tap the holes OK with a plug tap before the
motor went in.
I asked the local engine rebuilder what he uses -- that yellow 3M
weatherstrip stuff! It's basically contact cement.
On Mon, 2006-05-01 at 06:04, William Renshaw wrote:
> The simplist remedy for the aftermarket cast aluminum valve cover(s) is to
> remove the wiper motor and the backing plate that the motor rests on. That
> little "clippie" that holds everything together can be a P.I.T.A. (pain in
> the a$$) but it gets it out of your way so you do have some room to work.
> Another option is to place a large floor jack under the motor and a smaller
> floor jack under the tranny, unbolt the motor mounts and very carefullly
> pull the motor forward. BUT PULL IT AS FAR TO NOT PUT THE FAN INTO THE
> RADIATOR!! That will also allow you to have some room to work. I use the
> Clifford Performance valve cover on my Gremlin. The best way to glue it on
> is to use contact cement. Place your valve cover gasket on a flat clean
> surface, goop it up pretty good with contact cement and let it dry over
> night. The cement has to be dry for it to work properly. NOW HERES THE
> REALLY TRICKY AND STICKY PART. Use a small amount of the contact cement on
> the stuff that has dried over night. Place the gasket on the valve cover,
> you have to be quick or the stuffs going to stick and if the gasket isnt in
> the right spot....well..... your screwed! I know this sounds like alot of
> work to get somthing to work. I know I have been there and done that. The
> gasket on my Gremlin has been on there for over 60,xxx plus miles with out a
> leak or a drip or any problems. I also had to do the same thing to the 83
> Eagle wagon that I had at one time. I thought I would "try" to drill and tap
> the holes in the head with out removing the head..HOMER SIMPSON DID IT
> AGAIN. Dont do it. Take the head all the way off and take it to a reputiable
> machine shop and have them drill and tap the holes. Remove the wiper motor
> and I use a flexiable screwin' driver to get back in between the fire wall
> and the valve cover. You also have to remove the stock valve cover hold
> downs that are on the rocker arms. What is nice about using the contact
> cement is that you only use it on the side that sticks to the valve cover. I
> never use anything between the gasket and the head itself. The valve cover
> can be removed and replaced several times with out any problems as leaks and
> stuff. I have never heard of an after market valve cover scrapping on the
> rockers before. That is the reason that they are made....make room for the
> after market rolller rockers. Its a lot of back bustin', nuckle bustin' work
> but in the long run they are nice and you dont have all the rocker noise
> like you do with the stockers. GOOD LUCK! KEEP THEM AMC'S ALIVE AND WELL!!
>
>
>
> Bill Renshaw Lewiston Idaho
> AKA Brother B.
> AMC'S RULE.....the rest just drool like the dogs they are.
> 1973 Gremlin X "clone" (project)
> 1970 Original Hornet "plain jane"
> 1974 Matador Coupe "Parts car"
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> AMC-List mailing list
> AMC-List@xxxxxxxxxxxx
> http://www.wps.com/mailman/listinfo/amc-list
>
> or go to http://www.amc-list.com
------------------------------
Message: 4
Date: Mon, 01 May 2006 13:05:29 -0700
From: Tom Jennings <tomj@xxxxxxx>
Subject: [AMC-List] steering gear ratios, was Re: Two Requests
To: amc-list@xxxxxxx
Message-ID: <1146513928.7965.113.camel@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Content-Type: text/plain
On Mon, 2006-05-01 at 09:18, Sandwich Maker wrote:
> yup. they can also help you with steering ratios, though iirc the
> vega box was never offered with anything nearly as fast as the 12:1
> available on the bigger boxes.
Slight change of subject here -- is 12:1 really any good for a car
driven on superhighways? My hornet (108" wheelbase) has got the 3
turns-lock-t-lock (14? 16? :1), and it's plenty quick at 70 mph. It's
not twitchy, but you have to pay attention. On a shorter car (AMX...) it
would be Not Fun on long trips. A fast box would be great autocrossing,
but who on this list turns corners with the gas pedal down? Even SOLO I
would seem to be better with a slower box.
I was planning on switching to the fast box, but no longer.
------------------------------
Message: 5
Date: Mon, 01 May 2006 13:23:10 -0700
From: Tom Jennings <tomj@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: [AMC-List] How to send plain text mess. through hotmail
or msn....
To: amc-list@xxxxxxx
Message-ID: <1146514990.7965.133.camel@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Content-Type: text/plain
Bill, thanks a million for going to the bother to write it up. I took
the liberty of posting this info on http://www.amc-list.com. If you
don't want your name there ("thanks to...") let me know.
On Mon, 2006-05-01 at 09:26, William Renshaw wrote:
> That was a really good idea that someone asked me to post so that anyone who
> has hotmail or msn on how to post plain text. ( I just whished I would of
> thought of it myself!!)
> You have to disable the rich-text editor and one way that is done through
> the mail page.
> 1. On the mail page, click on "NEW" drop-down and then select "mail message"
> 2. Click on the "tools" drop down menu and then select on "rich-text editor
> "OFF" to deactivate the rich-text editor.
> To do it though the mail options
> 1. Click the "options' link at the upper right side of the "mail page"
> 2. From the mail options list, click on "personal signature" link
> 3. Remove the check mark on the check box beside the "show the rich-text
> toolbar".
> 4. Click OK to save the changes.
> Hope that will help those who need to turn the crap off! Its simple and easy
> and a non computer guy like can do it....anyone can.
>
>
>
> Bill Renshaw Lewiston Idaho
> AKA Brother B.
> AMC'S RULE.....the rest just drool like the dogs they are.
> 1973 Gremlin X "clone" (project)
> 1970 Original Hornet "plain jane"
> 1974 Matador Coupe "Parts car"
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> AMC-List mailing list
> AMC-List@xxxxxxxxxxxx
> http://www.wps.com/mailman/listinfo/amc-list
>
> or go to http://www.amc-list.com
------------------------------
Message: 6
Date: Mon, 01 May 2006 13:24:48 -0700
From: Tom Jennings <tomj@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: [AMC-List] Door hinges......
To: amc-list@xxxxxxx
Message-ID: <1146515087.7965.138.camel@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Content-Type: text/plain
On Mon, 2006-05-01 at 09:35, William Renshaw wrote:
> Are the door hinges on all small bodied AMC cars the same? Can I swap the
> door hinges from my Matador parts car to my Gremlin? I have "tried" to
> rebuild a pair on time on an Eagle that I had and to say the least...not
> only was it a pain, they didnt last very long.
I don't have an answer for you... It's a surprisingly crappy design,
especially seeing how the hinges on my 1963 Classic are original (or at
least, more than 18 years old since that's how long I've had it) and are
barely worn.
------------------------------
Message: 7
Date: Mon, 1 May 2006 16:29:13 -0400
From: AMC74Hornet@xxxxxxxxx (Mr. AMC)
Subject: Re: [AMC-List] Restoring Plastic Emblems With Modeling
Skills.
To: amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Message-ID: <2324-44566F99-2700@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Content-Type: Text/Plain; Charset=US-ASCII
Nick the dehydrator is vented at the top and I have the temp adjusted to
110 degrees, the exposed element is barely warm. The emblem is so small
it doesn't matter. The model car bodies I bake have 10 times the surface
and paint on them. This is an everyday practice in model building and I
have never heard of an explosion. I been doing this for over 8 years. I
use it to speed up the drying of paint on small parts for my real car.
The metal Hornet fender emblems were barely warm. I some times bake 3
model car bodies at a time for 3 day's straight. I just did the blue for
the R/W/B emblem insert and it is baking now. Tomorrow it gets the red
and the day after the clear. Force drying is needed when using enamel to
speed things up.
"Doc"
------------------------------
Message: 8
Date: Mon, 1 May 2006 16:35:59 -0400
From: AMC74Hornet@xxxxxxxxx (Mr. AMC)
Subject: Re: [AMC-List] More Valve Cover Woes (John Elle)
To: amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Message-ID: <2324-4456712F-2706@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Content-Type: Text/Plain; Charset=US-ASCII
John does removing the wiper motor eliminate the need to hammer the
firewall when installing an aluminum valve cover for clearance?
"Doc"
------------------------------
Message: 9
Date: Mon, 1 May 2006 13:36:39 -0700 (PDT)
From: Marty Bricker <mbrickerusn@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: [AMC-List] hornet/concord/eagle interchange question
To: AMC List <amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Message-ID: <20060501203639.17679.qmail@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1
Let me say this about interchanges...if you're going
to interchange fenders from a vehicle with 14" wheels
to an Eagle you will have an interference issue with
the front edge. The opening of the Eagle fenders is
wider...I know this from personal experience!
Marty
Date: Sat, 29 Apr 2006 12:14:00 +0000
From: farna@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: [AMC-List] hornet/concord/eagle
interchange question
To: Blitzman@xxxxxxxxxxx, mail@xxxxxxxxxxxx (AMC-List)
Cc: eddiestakes@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Message-ID:
<042920061214.13275.4453588800010E7D000033DB21602807480E029D0E00@xxxxxxx>
Eddie, Duane:
Yes, the Eagle body is virtually the same as the
Hornet and Concord.
Doors, front clips, hatch, etc. all interchange. All
glass interchanges
all models and years. There are some differneces in
the front sheet
metal and how it mounts, but as long as the entire
front end is switched
(fenders, grille, and hood) they will generally
interchange. The caveat
there is the panel behind the headlights attached to
each end of the
radiator support structure is slightly different
depending on the front
end design. As long as the headlight arrangement is
the same even this
isn't an obstacle, but going from round to rectangular
headlights would
be a lot more work. With headlights in the same
arrangement you might
have to adjust a few mounting holes and braces.
--
Frank Swygert
Publisher, "American Independent
Magazine" (AIM)
For all AMC enthusiasts
http://farna.home.att.net/AIM.html
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com
------------------------------
Message: 10
Date: Mon, 1 May 2006 16:26:29 -0400 (EDT)
From: adh@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx (Sandwich Maker)
Subject: Re: [AMC-List] Picked up a new project
To: mail@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Message-ID: <200605012026.k41KQTZ25454@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
" From: Nick ALFANO <71amx@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
"
" yesterday I went to a huge farm auction and in the
" barn were a few cars and trucks.
" []
" Any way, the one
" that caught my eye was a 1942 1&1/2 ton Chevy Dual
" rear wheel truck. The truck is very solid and was one
" that was made right at the start of the war and held
" over until it was delivered in Aug of 43. It only has
" 50,000 original miles on it and it runs and drives. I
" have never ventured out into the old truck market so
" this one is new to me. I will have to do some
" research on it. As far as AMC content goes, I have
" always wanted to put an AMC engine in a Chevy vehicle.
" This one just might get that transplant if I decide
" to go the street rod route with it. I would love to
" see the look on a Chevy guys face when I tell him it
" has an AMC 401 in it.
a nice cool old truck like this, the most i'd do is look up the
reproed old jimmy speed equipment [wayne 12-port? fenton headers?
etc] and rod the original engine. but i'd do a 4bbl rather than a
multi-carb setup.
________________________________________________________________________
Andrew Hay the genius nature
internet rambler is to see what all have seen
adh@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx and think what none thought
------------------------------
Message: 11
Date: Mon, 1 May 2006 17:57:31 -0400 (EDT)
From: adh@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx (Sandwich Maker)
Subject: Re: [AMC-List] 85 Eagle auto drivetrain FS, Detroit area
To: amc-list@xxxxxxx
Message-ID: <200605012157.k41LvVv25611@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
" From: msproviero@xxxxxxxxxxx
"
" http://www.greatlakes4x4.com/showthread.php?p=122445#post122445
"
" One of the guys on our 4x4 site has what he describes as TF-999
" connected to an 85 Eagle transfer case (no low range) for $100.
" I have no idea if this trans and t-case are supposed to go together
" or are the original pair - I'm just passing it along.
the tf999/32rh was an enhanced tf998, which was in turn an enhanced
tf904. wranglers at least came with 999s, but i thought eagles had
998s std. then again, afaik the 999/998 differences are slight,
compared to the more noticeable 998/904 diffs.
________________________________________________________________________
Andrew Hay the genius nature
internet rambler is to see what all have seen
adh@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx and think what none thought
------------------------------
Message: 12
Date: Mon, 1 May 2006 17:18:12 -0500
From: "Eddie Stakes" <eddiestakes@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: [AMC-List] brake wheel cylinder question
To: "AMC List" <mail@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Cc: rgbjav@xxxxxxx
Message-ID: <02a301c66d6d$30090c40$28f1b148@piageedc1iqa5q>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
Robert below has a interesting brake question about his 70 Javelin. If anyone knows, feel free to comment and thanks in advance to all who might.
Eddie Stakes'
Planet Houston AMX
713.464.8825
eddiestakes@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
www.planethoustonamx.com
=======================================================
By the way, would you know of an alternate part for my leaky Front Wheel Cylinders, I don't feel like spending the outrageous price the parts places around here want for them! It's a $10 part if it was for something else. Does the ones from the rear of a late model Ford F350 Dually PU swap/bolt in? They have the same Bore (1 3/16) and Fitting size (3/8-24), Just thought I'd ask.
Robert Bublies
RGBJav@xxxxxxx
------------------------------
Message: 13
Date: Tue, 2 May 2006 00:50:34 +0200
From: Wolfgang Mederle <amclist2006@xxxxxxx>
Subject: [AMC-List] rare AMC for sale (Germany)
To: AMC List <amc-list@xxxxxxx>
Message-ID: <9D13A243-FB4E-4838-9DE5-82A8857155EA@xxxxxxx>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII; delsp=yes; format=flowed
For sale in Germany, location Freiburg/Breisgau:
1967 Ambassador Convertible, right-hand drive
all original, 290, power steering, power disk brakes, automatic roof,
runs good
Pictures:
http://americanmuscle.de/06/loerrach/zz6_img_2240.html
http://img115.imageshack.us/img115/9783/13ra.jpg
Please contact "Marc" <plastus@xxxxxxxx>, /not/ my car, and I don't
know anything else about it.
Wolfgang
--
Wolfgang Mederle
Munich, Bavaria (Germany)
amclist2006@xxxxxxx
<URL:http://www.american-motors.de/>
------------------------------
Message: 14
Date: Mon, 1 May 2006 18:14:45 -0400 (EDT)
From: adh@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx (Sandwich Maker)
Subject: Re: [AMC-List] steering gear ratios, was Re: Two Requests
To: amc-list@xxxxxxx
Message-ID: <200605012214.k41MEjN25749@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
" From: Tom Jennings <tomj@xxxxxxx>
"
" On Mon, 2006-05-01 at 09:18, Sandwich Maker wrote:
"
" > yup. they can also help you with steering ratios, though iirc the
" > vega box was never offered with anything nearly as fast as the 12:1
" > available on the bigger boxes.
"
" Slight change of subject here -- is 12:1 really any good for a car
" driven on superhighways?
not much. the nascar folks now all use ps - so they can run -really-
aggressive alignment settings - but nothing faster than 24:1 b/c it's
too twitchy. they may even use ratio -increasers- -- 24:1 at their
speeds compares to about 8:1 at highway speed.
otoh, me and the gf/so just retrieved her new jeep from nc [our own
ver of '48 hours'], which has i believe 12:1 and a 101" wb, and both
of us had work adjusting to it.
" My hornet (108" wheelbase) has got the 3
" turns-lock-to-lock (14? 16? :1), and it's plenty quick at 70 mph. It's
" not twitchy, but you have to pay attention. On a shorter car (AMX...) it
" would be Not Fun on long trips.
a low boost high effort/feel setup with a lot of caster would help a
lot to offset the twitchiness.
" A fast box would be great autocrossing,
" but who on this list turns corners with the gas pedal down?
<raises hand> meee! meee!
but then i have 16:1 -manual- steering...
" I was planning on switching to the fast box, but no longer.
it has the most use on slow twisty driving, city streets for instance.
________________________________________________________________________
Andrew Hay the genius nature
internet rambler is to see what all have seen
adh@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx and think what none thought
------------------------------
Message: 15
Date: Mon, 1 May 2006 20:09:33 -0400
From: "Robert Sliko" <robert.sliko@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: [AMC-List] Non AMC Power Steering Question
To: <AMC-List@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Message-ID: <000b01c66d7c$b0fcd610$6501a8c0@BOB>
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="Windows-1252";
reply-type=original
I have a 1999 Windstar that is making lots of whines and is foaming out the
fluid through the resevoir. I changed the fluid which seemed to help for
one day, now it is back to spitting fluid out the resevoir. So is it the
pump or is it the rack, or what do I need to check?
AMC content...my 74 AMX and 82 Concord have never had a problem with
power steering since new!!
Bob
------------------------------
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AMC-List mailing list
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End of AMC-List Digest, Vol 4, Issue 4
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