AMC-List Digest, Vol 3, Issue 33

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Today's Topics:

   1. Lesson learned (markprice242@xxxxxxxxxxxx)
   2. I hate the AMC water pump design... (Savage, Pete)
   3. '69 Javelin project in Rockford,	Illinois (90 miles west of
      Chicago) (Justin Shelton)
   4. Re: Vaccuum advance (Jim Blair)
   5. Javelin Carb Needed (JOE FULTON)
   6. 69 Ambassador SST & 68 SSR/AMX cheap (Eddie Stakes)
   7. Re: American project updates/ 3 questions (Tom Jennings)
   8. Re: I Hate The AMC Water Pump Design. (Mr. AMC)
   9. Re: I Hate The AMC Water Pump Design. (Tom Jennings)
  10. Weird charging system problems (Joe)


----------------------------------------------------------------------

Message: 1
Date: Mon, 17 Apr 2006 7:07:44 -0700
From: markprice242@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [AMC-List] Lesson learned
To: mail@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Message-ID:
	<31313903.1145282864485.JavaMail.root@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8

Even with three days off this past weekend I still worked 47 hours before Friday. I was hoping to get some quality time in on rusty, but didn't manage more than about 4 hours total :[ Did disscover that even with the car jacked and supported the rusty fender trough is doing some load bearing! My plan was to cut the rear of it out and redo the upper section of cowl where trough welds on. So I get everything set so it appears there is no real stress or weight on the passenger side of the car and I run my sawzall through the rear, The gap from the sawzall closes instantly after wrestling the blade out! Oops! I figured out that since the inner fender is rusted through right in that section that left the very outer section of trough to do all the work of keeping  the top of the inner fender where it belongs! So, I pryed and cussed the fender trough until I got it lined back up and spaced the width of the sawzall blade and mig welded it back together. Now I'm working around the tr!
 ough to rebuild the upper cowl corner. I've got the plate bent up out of 16 qauge steel. This will allow the load from my replacement steel to be spread out. I've got the rust cut out and cleaned up and the inner cowl painted with Eastwoods rust encapsulator, except where I'm welding, that will get a shot of zinc primer. 
   The plan now is to weld the plate in. Rebuild the rear section of inner fender where it is visble to the engine compartment, then prep and weld the 3/4" by 3" rectangular heavy wall tube in on top of the trough, not too the trough, just on top as far out as possible, joining the core support to the cowl. Then weld some braces from the shock tower out to the rectangular tubing.
  After being sure I have everything in place I will cut the trough out, leaving the rectangluar tubing in place. Sounds easy huh?
   Anyone want this car yet?
I'm holding on the floorboards. Hoping to get some suitable replacements that I can install in one piece. I also have a bead roller coming from Harbor fright to play with.

Mark Price
markprice242ATadelphia.net
Morgantown, WV




------------------------------

Message: 2
Date: Mon, 17 Apr 2006 10:36:19 -0400
From: "Savage, Pete" <PSavage@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: [AMC-List] I hate the AMC water pump design...
To: <amc-list@xxxxxxx>
Message-ID:
	<E480ED1D2ACDD04CBF83DB613E74067301A4A8D6@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Content-Type: text/plain;	charset="iso-8859-1"

Folks,

This weekend I went to have my 68 AMX inspected only hear the water pump scream
back at me after I initially started the car.

No problem, as I must have replaced dozens of these over the years (I wonder why these need
to be replaced so often) in the various V8 AMC cars that I have owned.

So, with tools in hand I proceeded to remove the radiator, belts, alternator, power steering pump, etc.
and got the pump exposed for removal.  Removed all the bolts, the pump won't budge as I forgot to remove
the bolt at the very bottom of the pump.

No problem I will just remove the bolt.  One and a half turns later, snap...

Ugh, now this job is turning ugly!  After assessing the situation I decided to remove the timing chain cover
so that I can place it on the drill press to drill out the broken 1/4 bolt and re-tap.

At 9:30pm last evening I buttoned this guy back up, drained and replaced the oil and antifreeze.  Before I went
to bed I tried to start the car, but I guess I need to reset the distributor to get it to run as I eyeballed it and must have
got it wrong.

Anyway, another easy job that turned out to take much longer than expected.  I am glad I don't need to rely on this car
for everyday transportation as it affords the luxury of being able to leave it apart for many days at a time.

Later
Peter








------------------------------

Message: 3
Date: Mon, 17 Apr 2006 08:00:37 -0700 (PDT)
From: Justin Shelton <justinshelton@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: [AMC-List] '69 Javelin project in Rockford,	Illinois (90
	miles west of Chicago)
To: amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Message-ID: <20060417150037.50763.qmail@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1

Found this on Craigslist in Chicago yesterday: 

http://chicago.craigslist.org/car/151739785.html




------------------------------

Message: 4
Date: Mon, 17 Apr 2006 08:07:01 -0700
From: "Jim Blair" <carnuck@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: [AMC-List] Vaccuum advance
To: AMC-List@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Message-ID: <BAY114-F326791ED8F8F0F10CA937ACC70@xxxxxxx>
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed

A: Steve, you are not supposed to hook the vacuum advance up to manifold 
vacuum (highest at idle) You need to hook it to ported vacuum (near zero 
vacuum at idle, and it jumps up as you open the throttle) There are 
adjustable advances out there (check for @'75 Ford stuff on Jegs or Summit 
or someone on the AMC parts supplier list)


From: "steven rideout" <steven.rideout@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: [AMC-List] Vaccuum advance
To: <AMC-List@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Message-ID: <002101c6616b$baeb8530$75a3c5d1@rideout>
Content-Type: text/plain;	charset="iso-8859-1"

How much additional timing should be added when the vaccuum
advance is connected on a motorcraft electronic distributor
I have my timing set at 12 degees initial and when i hook up the
vaccuum it jump,s to 40 is this normal
does anybody know if they make an adjustable vaccum advance for
this distributor


Steven Rideout
       Ont/Can
1973 AMX





Jim Blair, Seattle, WA '84 J10 Black Jack (getting lifted and stroked!), '73 
J4000 304/TH400/QT tow truck http://www.virtualjeep.com

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Message: 5
Date: Mon, 17 Apr 2006 08:17:01 -0700 (PDT)
From: JOE FULTON <piper_pa20@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: [AMC-List] Javelin Carb Needed
To: amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Message-ID: <20060417151701.16773.qmail@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1

A local Bay Area hobbyist (new to the hobby but
well-versed on old cars) has found a BBB 69 Javelin in
a local back yard and is fixing it up. 390 4-speed
with charcoal interior. I sold him some parts this
weekend.  

He still needs a carb that will work on the 390 and is
just trying to get it running.  I think I have an
original intake manifold for him, but if you do,
please let me know.  He also needs a repairable grille
and a front bumper.

I have his phone number and will pass it along if you
email me.

Joe Fulton
Salinas, CA


------------------------------

Message: 6
Date: Mon, 17 Apr 2006 10:14:04 -0500
From: "Eddie Stakes" <eddiestakes@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: [AMC-List] 69 Ambassador SST & 68 SSR/AMX cheap
To: <baadassgremlins@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Cc: AMC List <mail@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Message-ID: <016101c66241$53ff62c0$28f1b148@piageedc1iqa5q>
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1";
	reply-type=original

Have 2 days left in auction, this is a neat old 69 Ambassador SST, 290, AT, 
fly in drive home if you wish, Paige has been driving it as I have, but need 
to move it, along with a few other aMCs as have recently bought, uh, more 
AMCs.
http://search.ebay.com/_W0QQsassZeddiestakesQQhtZ-1

My rare 68 SSR/AMX (streetside rustoleum!) AMX goes onto feebay this week 
also:
http://www.planethoustonamx.com/ebay_stuff_1754.jpg
one of a kind hand painted by brush rustoleum! In Y3K scientists will marvel 
at the bugs I painted over perfectly preserved like in amber in Jurassic 
Park. No reserve on this baby, just neet to move it and need the room.

Eddie Stakes'
Planet Houston AMX
713.464.8825
eddiestakes@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
www.planethoustonamx.com



------------------------------

Message: 7
Date: Mon, 17 Apr 2006 11:37:05 -0700
From: Tom Jennings <tomj@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: [AMC-List] American project updates/ 3 questions
To: amc-list@xxxxxxx
Message-ID: <1145299024.7028.8.camel@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Content-Type: text/plain

On Mon, 2006-04-17 at 00:02, Mike Kindle wrote:

> 65 2dr American
> I finally figured out my front brake grabbing problem is that the pair of 
> nicely turned front drums I got from a junkyard car were turned off center.  
> Anyone in LA have a pair of 9x2-1/2 drums?

Hey, I'm in LA, and I have a set of brand new (not turned) drums -- on
hubs -- that I bought and never used. I think 2.5x9, from a 1970 Hornet,
I can check later. New shoes, new lugs, welded-up wear-groove backing
plates then milled flat, the whole works, completely as-new or
better-than-new brakes. I'll sell the new parts for what I paid two yrs
ago and throw in the other parts (backing plates, etc).

> (?#2)Anyone know how to remove the hubs and transfer them to new drums?
> I can get new drums at autozone but I suspect I'll have to somehow swap the 
> "integral" hubs.

There are no such thing as AMC integral hubs; they're all two-piece held
together with crimps at the base of the lug bolt (where the wheel fits).

http://wps.com/AMC/1970-AMC-Hornet/Jan-Apr2004.html scroll down about
half way.

> 
> I also put in a FENCO brand remanufactured master from autozone which is 
> actually sleeved, and you can see the sleeve through the reservoir ports.  
> Canadian company.  Seems to work well so far.  The Cardone brand has been 
> bad luck for me in the past.
> 
> Future project:  I'm investigating a Rambler American w/232 AT that is
> down 
> due to a destroyed flex plate.

You're in luck -- I just yanked a 232+BW auto trans. You can have the
flex plate for free (and the motor and trans if you want :-) come
'n'git-it. The motor is beyond tired, but it ran; details if you want.
The trans is old, fluid black (!) but it shifted well and no slippage or
serious leaks; would definitely want a rebuild but it's a good core, or
for parts. I have other 232/BW stuff if you want, free or trade.

I'll be around this weekend.



------------------------------

Message: 8
Date: Mon, 17 Apr 2006 14:40:29 -0400
From: AMC74Hornet@xxxxxxxxx (Mr. AMC)
Subject: Re: [AMC-List] I Hate The AMC Water Pump Design.
To: amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Message-ID: <11380-4443E11D-5787@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Content-Type: Text/Plain; Charset=US-ASCII

It's not the AMC pump design, it's the person who previously installed
the pump without putting anti-seize compound on the bolts. The V6 and V8
puick's were known for that on the top 2 1/4" bolts. I anti-seize most
bolts even door hinge bolts.
"Doc"



------------------------------

Message: 9
Date: Mon, 17 Apr 2006 12:09:35 -0700
From: Tom Jennings <tomj@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: [AMC-List] I Hate The AMC Water Pump Design.
To: amc-list@xxxxxxx
Message-ID: <1145300975.7028.37.camel@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Content-Type: text/plain

On Mon, 2006-04-17 at 11:40, Mr. AMC wrote:
> It's not the AMC pump design, it's the person who previously installed
> the pump without putting anti-seize compound on the bolts. The V6 and V8
> puick's were known for that on the top 2 1/4" bolts. I anti-seize most
> bolts even door hinge bolts.

I concur. It's a 35-year-old-part problem. I anti-seize, oil or grease
every single machine-thread fastener after at least wire-brushing it (if
not abrasive-tumbling or simply replacing it).

But there are times you have no choice -- like taking apart factory or
someone-else's work -- and I know this sounds like and advertisement,
and I've said it before, but AEROKROIL fron Kano Labs is practically
miraculuous. Basically I had given up on all of these chemical
solutions, and WD-40 is a weak joke (for anything; what the hell is that
stuff good for anyways?).

When I took apart the 73 parts car, and the nasty 70 motor in our 72
hornet, I squirt AeroKroil on the tailpipe-to-exh-manifold bolts and the
studs holding intake to exhaust manifolds the day before. In both cases
all but one stud came right out like a new part -- one stud snapped, one
upper int-to-exh, but it was corroded down to a narrow waist of
rust-metal. That one's gotta be drilled, but it's companion came out
with some crunchiness.

I used it on all sorts of parts on three cars, all 35+ years old, and
not once have I broken off a bolt/stud, and nearly all spin off like
normal fasteners. Really.

Squirting a day or more ahead of time seems to help a lot.

AeroKroil is nothing like any other chemical nut-loosener I've ever
heard of. It actually works, and I am pretty damn skeptical.



------------------------------

Message: 10
Date: Tue, 18 Apr 2006 01:59:10 -0700 (PDT)
From: Joe <jgray_55@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: [AMC-List] Weird charging system problems
To: AMClist <mail@xxxxxxxxxxxx>,	BadAssGremlins
	<baadassgremlins@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Cc: Jgray_55@xxxxxxxxx
Message-ID: <20060418085910.13543.qmail@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1

OK. About three years ago i replaced the locked up
35amp Motorola alternator on my 67 Ambassador with a
rebuilt(loose use of the term rebuilt ) CarQuest unit.
The alt was locked up when i got the Ambo. The rebuilt
alt  worked fine for about a month or so. THEN it quit
charging completely......i went thru THREE  MORE of
the pieces of crap Car Quest alternators,..EACH ONE
did something weirdly different...WRONG!!!!!!!~!
Finally i gave up and installed a WELL-USED totally
original 1967 Rambler American 6 cylinder 35 amp
alternator. Charged fine at higher than idle
speeed...but the aftermarket gauge showed a slight
dis-charge at idle.Sooo after a year of driving it
that way.....i bought a factory replacement AMC
Motorola upgrade  51 amp unit from Jeff
Kennedy....installed it tonight. WEIRDNESS GETS
WAYYYYY WORSE!!!!!!! At idle speed the needle jumps
around some...unless i turn on the lights..then it's
KINDA  smooth..but higher charge rate than normal. 
BUT.... if i rev it up even SLIGHTLY ...the needle
jumps WILDLY back and forth from  14-16 volts????????
WTF is the deal now?????? OHHH YEAH..i've already
tried SEVERAL NOS and Aftermarket regulators...ALL are
the same result!!!!!! WTFFFFF?? I've heard along time
ago that the positive feed on the fuse block can cause
this..BUT..it charged well with the OLD Rambler
alt..except at idle???????? Just ABout ready to fry
the (*&^%$#@ thing!! HELPPPPP Joe

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End of AMC-List Digest, Vol 3, Issue 33
***************************************