Sounds like 16 gauge to me! I'd say it's 1/16" easy. I'm figuring they needed the beef to steady up the front end when they lengthened the wheelbase. They have plates welded in all over the place including two in the front inner fender corners that are 1/4" steel! They are factory as I've received verification from Tim Linton that the 66 he parted had the same big funky plates in it. Bad news on the trough, I left work early today and peeled the fender back on the flood car. No dice, trough is rotted clear through. Good news is I got both rear floors cut out and they are now warm and dry in the shop waiting for me to get to them. Tomorrow I'm going back to the wiper area and stick to plan! Know anyone with a 43" sheetmetal brake that can bend 16 gauge? I can send measurements of what needs done. I will be checking here in town to locate a place to bend the passenger side up. -- Mark Price markprice242ATadelphia.net Morgantown, WV ---- farna@xxxxxxx wrote: > Are you sure it's not 18 gauge? 16 gauge would be roughly 1/16 of an inch thick. It may be that thick though. 16 gauge will look like 1/16" if you measure with a ruler anyway. It's actually 0.0598 (1/16" is 0.0625). But 15 gauge is noticeably thicker than 16 or 1/16" -- 0.0673. It really doesn't matter since you're replacing both with the same thickness, and as long as it's strong enough. > > -- > Frank Swygert > Publisher, "American Independent > Magazine" (AIM) > For all AMC enthusiasts > http://farna.home.att.net/AIM.html > (free download available!) > > -------------- Original message ---------------------- > From: markprice242@xxxxxxxxxxxx > > Yes, I may indeed do that with the trough. > > I looked at them carefully this morning and building the entire trough would be > > complicated. However there are four major bends that are straght and would build > > the basic trough. The other edge would be easy to trim and weld to the existing > > lip. > > This is heavier metal then 18 gauge! No doubt about it. > > More good news, I went out and dug through the mud on the floor of the flood > > car yesterday after work. The rear carpet is in place, once I pulled it and the > > horsehair mat back I found perfect floors in it clear up to the dropdown in > > front of the front seats!!! Yes! I hope the rain is light enough tomorrow to > > allow me to take the sawzall to it an get them out. It will be disstracting me > > from getting the wiper area done, but outside work is best done when you can get > > it done this time of year! This flood car may actually have a useable trough on > > it.! I felt up under the fender and it feels solid. There is some heavy rust and > > a large plate on top of the fender though. > > I figure to unbolt the top of the fender and run the sawzall down the seem if > > weather allows, so I can take a look at it. > > With any luck by the end of the weekend I will have complete repair plan in > > place. Then all I need is time! > > > > -- > > Mark Price > > markprice242ATadelphia.net > > Morgantown, WV > > > > > > ---- farna@xxxxxxx wrote: > > > How about this: buy the NOS one and take it to a sheet metal shop (if nothing > > else check AC shops that make their own duct work) and see what it costs to make > > a mirror image. > > > > > > My car is painted that color everywhere too now. You might find some of the > > original if you climb underneath and find a spot where the undercoating has come > > off though. I painted everything inside when I had the dash and windows out. > > Even under the false floor over the spare. I took the floor out and sprayed it > > on both sides, and the hidden compartment cover. Since the rear glass was out, > > it's that blue under the edge of the window rubber too! So someone may have had > > the thing apart and painted it. And under the heater. Since it's a convertible > > someone may have "done it right" 20 years ago. That would only have been 86, and > > the car was 20 years old then -- certainly old enough to be restored... > > > > > > -- > > > Frank Swygert > > > Publisher, "American Independent > > > Magazine" (AIM) > > > For all AMC enthusiasts > > > http://farna.home.att.net/AIM.html > > > (free download available!) > > > > > > -------------- Original message ---------------------- > > > From: markprice242@xxxxxxxxxxxx > > > > I can figure out something as far as doing some short captions as time > > allows. > > > > Now I have to make a decision on the troughs. Kennedy American has a NOS > > drivers > > > > side! $80 plus shipping. The drivers side is definitely the worst one. So I > > have > > > > to think of how to proceed. Buy the NOS one and repair the passenger. Buy > > the > > > > NOS one install it and hope by the time I am completed with it I've found a > > > > passeneger side. Or forget it and do the custom rebuild with the rectangular > > > > stock. > > > > I'm also trying to find a Heat and defrost box for this thing. Everyone > > makes > > > > heat and A/C or Heat, A/C and defrost, Or just A/C. I may buy the Heat, A/C > > and > > > > defrost box and not hook up the A/C. That way it is in place should anyone > > wish > > > > to hook it up at a later date. > > > > I had frogotten the door tag doesn't match the VIN. I'll have to look at > > it > > > > again to try and figure out what is going on. The paint code Tom Bunsey and > > I > > > > looked up when I bought it showed the greenish blue metallic and this car is > > > > painted a color very close to yours. It is painted that color everywhere > > too, > > > > except where the dash was and under the fender troughs and such. I pulled > > the > > > > fan housing from the firewall it is the light blue underneath. For this car > > to > > > > have been color changed someone would have had to do almost has much > > stripping > > > > as I've done now. Not an impossibility in a car this old. I'm curious about > > the > > > > whole deal. > > > > -- > > > > Mark Price > > > > markprice242ATadelphia.net > > > > Morgantown, WV > > > > > > > >