Re: 4.0 -again

[speedyjeeper@xxxxxxxx]

Thanks for the info.  I found a running 95' 2wd jeep with 4.0L auto.  will that auto trans work?  If I left all the stock 4.0L pulleys/pump/fan etc intact would it work ok with the 68'  American rad placement?  what about using the old distributer? thanks frank   

On September 7, 2005 Frank Swygert wrote:

> 1. The intake and exhaust manifolds aren't normally used. You *might* be able to keep them by making a spacer where the intake and exhaust manifolds bolt together. Most of the time the 4.0L exhaust is used since it's much lighter and better flowing, and the bottom of the intake is just blocked off. The only problem with this is cold weather driving is highly affected -- takes a while to get the engine up to operating temps. You'll also have to drill and tap the 4.0L head for a small machine screw (about a #6) just above the pin that the intake rests on for alignment. With the head off and on its side, align and mark where the screw needs to be then drill and tap.
> 
> 2. Keeping the 199 pulleys will be a problem. The 199 water pump should fit, so that's not a big deal (remember, serpentine belt pumps run backwards in relation to V-belt pumps). Mounting points for accessories changed in 1974, so you will have to adjust/modify/fabricate brackets to fit.
> 
> 3. The biggest hurdle is the transmission. If you have an auto it can't be used. The bolt pattern for the six changed in 1972 -- 1971 and earlier have a smaller diameter bell. You can use an old model manual trans by getting a 1979-83 bell housing. You'll need the 79-83 manual trans bearing retainer too. Either drill the old trans for the new retainer or the retainer for the trans. The auto is air cooled or I'd say get a model 40 V-8 bell -- the model 37 trans should fit it, but the model 35 won't. Best to stick with the Jeep auto trans or a newer model 998. The Jeep AW4 auto is electonic, but you can easily and cheaply make a manual controller -- I did. Put it in drive the turn a switch to change gears -- semi-auto. It's a four speed auto too (0.70 OD).
> 
> 4. As far as engine mounts that's easy -- the side plates from the 199 bolt right onto the 4.0L.
> 
> 5. If you're going to the trouble of installing a 4.0L, you really should use the EFI. It's more reliable, powerful, and fuel efficient. It can be made to look almost stock. I have an open round air filter on mine, and most people see that and don't eve notice the injectors unless they look close! For a pic of my engine go to http://groups.msn.com/amcsforever/farnasramblers.msnw.
> 
> 
> 
> On September 7, 2005 Rusty Quarterstaff wrote:
> 
> > Hi there, can someone go through step by step whats involved with swapping in a 4.0 in place of my 68' 199? I'll have the full engine including exhaust manifold.  I want to retain a stock appearance so I'd like to keep the stock intake, distibuter and anything else that I can like the water pump, pulleys etc.  thanks again.  the 4.0's are actually easier and cheaper to find up here than 258's or 232's.
> >
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