Re: Garage topic : Cinderblock , experienced stonemason advice wanted

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Get a structural opinion!
Depending on the load above the door you may be able to do as you suggest and cut the opeing and insert the beam, but for a garage door width, IMHO, I would shoot for 10'X10' minimum on a shop! I think you will probably need to do the L beam approach. You cut one side, slide an L beam in, if it's 8" block use a 4" by whatever heigth is necessary L beam. Then you cut the other side and insert and L beam from that side. Bolt them together through the wall. Then you take the opening blocks out after cutting them.
  Best bet on the side cuts is to see if you can find a professional to make the cuts. They can use a large water coooled saw and litterally cut completely through the wall and all you will need to do is Knock it over! Much easier then beating the block out piece by piece after scoring with a saw!
  You really need to plan this carefully as you don't want to end up in the hospital or on Americas funniest home videos![And not win!]
Mark Price
mprice@xxxxxxxxxx
Morgantown, WV
69 AMC rambler, 4.0L, EFI, 5 speed 
65 Ambassador Conv, 327 AUTO, Basketcase
65 Ambassador 990H flood victim parts car!
01 S-10 CREWCRAP 4X4



---------- Original Message ----------------------------------
From: Jerry Casper <gremlingts@xxxxxxxxx>
Reply-To: mail-From-mprice-westco.net@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Date:  Thu, 1 Sep 2005 17:26:43 -0700 (PDT)

>  In order for me to make my " Gremlin Garage II " (
>obligatory AMC reference ) a reality at the building I
>am about to purchase in a sleepy country one-traffic
>light town, I need some help with a structural
>decision. 
>  Here's the low-down - 3,000 sq. ft. building, comes
>with an 18 x 40 foot cinderblock back "shop", with
>concrete "plaster" on the outside of it. Only a 32"
>standard human doorway in the cinderblock shop. Shop
>has a concrete floor. I NEED to cut a big enough
>opening for a car to pass thru ( actually, I hope to
>pass 5-6 thru it and pack it for now ). Is there a
>reasonable DIY way to do this without collapsing the
>top structure? I was thinking of doing it this way :
>
> 1) Knock out a row of cinderblocks up high.
> 2) install a steel I-beam about 6" - 8" tall, and X
>feet long, to support the cinderblocks above. 
> 3) tie in the beam to the structure, then knock out
>the blocks below it>.
>
>  First, is this a feasible thing to accomplish for a
>non-experienced stone worker to do, or should it be
>left to a professional? And if so, how much would
>structural work like this cost? I'd like the opening
>made, so I can get the cars in, then install a garage
>door later. I plan to fence in the lot behind it, so
>there won't be easy access to it. They are project
>cars anyway, so I'm not too worried about them. 
>  A friend who does tile says normally an L-beam is
>used, chip out the cement between the blocks, then
>install the L-beam, bolt it to the wall, and then
>knock out the blocks beneath. I "may" have access to 2
>cheap I-beams, butif the L-beam is the way to go, then
>I'll go the best route. 
>  So, looking for anyone who can give some "free"
>advice on what NOT to do, or what to do. I'm willing
>to spend a couple grand to get it done right. I have
>the cash, just need to make some decisions on what the
>best way to go about it QUICKLY right now to open the
>building up, so I'll have room for more cars on the
>back lot. I have 16 or so to move, so the more space I
>can "make", ie open up the shop, the more I hope to
>save from inevitable destruction, with my aunt's farm
>being sold, I need to move my cars ASAP.
>  Anyway, that's my story, and I'm stickin' to it. Any
>professional, or DIY advice from someone who's done it
>much appreciated! TIA,
>
>Jerry Casper
>Woodbridge, VA
>trying to save my AMC(hevy) fleet...
>
>
>		
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