Re: Strokers@yahoogroups.com

[farna@xxxxxxx]

My comments scattered within:

On July 7, 2005 Brien Tourville wrote:

> Go to www.strokers@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx and JOIN!
> 
> You are entering the area that they are all about.
> 
> Check the site for 'Dino' s  homepage as he has
> an outline of his build > you'll get all the skinny
> as to what where and which parts.

The URL is http://www.jeep4.0performance.4mg.com
Look for stroker info. He has not only his budget stroker write-up, but the known good "recipes" for several different builds, from budget 4.5/6/7 (depends on bore) to 5.0L w/offset ground crank.

> I'll tell you now that you'd be ahead of the game
> using a 96 or newer 4.0 as a starter > block
> was upgraded in a number of areas with
> thicker webbing etc.  and they come with
> main stud girdles from the Factory .

Yes, to a degree. No one has had problems with the earlier blocks. If you're looking for a budget stroker with modest power (like mine -- ~240 net hp/300 lb/ft net torque -- convert those numbers to gross power and they are ~300/340) don't worry about the block -- you're not going to turn it much over 5K anyway (cams run out of steam around then, but build max torque in the 1800-2000 range anyway, and the computer richens the mixture enough @ 2500 rpm that you don't want to cruise over that!). If you're building a race engine that will run up in rpms a lot the stronger block will be a definite must. People don't know how to drive an in-line six anymore! They rev them up like a V-6 or four (or even small V-8s) to get a little power when it isn't necessary. That's why Chrysler had "problems" with people complaining about engine noise in XJs to begin with -- yuppie drivers!! You can lug an in-line six without harm or danger of choking it down, unlike a four or small V engine. T!
 he I-6 makes more torque at low rpms -- use it! 


> The crank nose is the difference.  You'll find
> the 'fix' on the site.

Either have 0.30" trimmed off the front of the crank or grind a washer down that's 0.3" thick to fit inside the balancer. The washer will push the 4.0L balancer back further on the crank. An Eagle serpentine balancer won't work -- the belt teeth are about 1/4" further away from the block than the 4.0L. When I built mine 5-6 years ago my first thought was to get an 80s 258 serpentin balancer. Found one in the local salvage yard, discovered the difference the hard way! 

> 
> The early 258 cranks up to '79 have the 12
> counterweights > the '81 + have either
> 6 or 8 or 10 counterweights.

If you want to rev up quicker use the mid 80+ light weight crank. It's about 40 lbs lighter! If rock crawling the momentum of the heavy crank will help prevent low speed stalls. Some racers prefer the heavy crank because it is at least perceived as stronger. Hardly anyone (even serious rock crawlers) breaks a 258/4.0L crank. It's rare! There should be no strength problems with any, but weight is an rpm killer and will take just a bit more power. You should free 5-7 hp by using the lighter crank. 

> 
> Pistons are the question & you'll need to
> read up on the options as 'Quench' on these
> are critical.

Quench is critical only if you want to run the highest possible compression. If you don't mind reducing compression to around stock (8.7:1 stock, 9.0:1 is okay) quench is a mute point. The 4.0L isn't a "quench compliant" engine, neither is the 258. When you stroke a 4.0L (258 crank and rods, stock 4.0L pistons) static compression jumps to around 9.7:1. If you use a camshaft with enough overlap to bleed off the pressure you can run without quench, or if you dish the pistons to pull static compression down to the 8.7-9.0 range. If you want to run a little more compression and less overlap for the 10-20 hp more, plan on spending money for custom pistons and decking the block. 

> 
> There is a lot to these Stroker Engine Builds
> so  update your 'Specs' & enjoy the wealth
> of Info this group has generated.
> 
> They'll give you total support on your Build
> & answer any question you have - regardless -
> by the next post > usually 12 to 24 hrs.

And that's the honest to God truth!! 

> 
> Welcome to Strokers Russ !
> 

Will like to see you there -- I've been a member for years now, was one of the first group of people to build one.

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