Re: Fibreglass floor repair source?

[farna@xxxxxxx]

There is no such thing. Just go to the local marine supply store. They will have fiberglass cloth, mat, and resin. If the holes are more than 2" in diameter you will need some metal screen wire also. Preferably you want screen that's a bit stiffer than insect screen, but if the holes aren't to big insect screen will work -- metal (preferably steel), NOT fiberglass! 

You can get fiberglass repair kits atthe local auto parts store too. Just read the box and make sure there is enough cloth inside. They will sell resin and cloth separately also. I generally find better prices at marine stores though. 

1. Clean the metal real good. You don't really have to cut out rusted parts, but need to treat the metal after it's sand blasted or wire brushed. Don't use a "rust conversion" primer. The fiberglass resin will stick better to a standard primer. I use something called "The Must For Rust" available at Lowe's, Wal-Mart, K-Mart, etc. It's a spray on light acid base etch that leaves a paintable residue that resists further rusting and makes the primer stick better. 

2. Cut your cloth or mat so the edges are at least 2" beyond any hole. You'll need to double the cloth, a single layer of mat should be sufficient. If the holes are very big (2" or more) use the cloth, as you will need to double it anyway. Mat will use twice as much resin as cloth, so remember that when buying! 

3. Now mix just enough resin to cover the floor. Be careful -- you only have about five minutes to work! You can put the cloth down in sections if you need to, just overlap them about 2". Paint the floor and carefully lay the cloth/mat in, working bubbles out. A wood spatula works well, and remember to wear latex gloves (buy a box, you'll need them, and several spatulas -- go to the dollar store!). Make sure the cloth stretches over any holes as tight as possible, but a little sag will be fine. If you're afraid the cloth will sag to much lay a piece of screen wire over the hole first. You might need to rivet the screen down if it's insect screen, but it should be stiff enough.

4. Once the cloth is all down and the resin nearly dry (a little tacky is fine), mix some more and paint another layer of resin. If you are using screen wire lay and work the screen into this resin, if not lay another layer of cloth down. If you used matt you're just adding resin to smooth the mat out. 

5. Once the last later dries to tacky, mix and spread another layer of resin. If you laid screen wire another layer of cloth goes on top, if not this should be the final coat of resin for the mat. If you have another layer of cloth, let it get tacky then apply another coat of resin. 

6. You should be finished with the fiberglass now. Check for smoothness (well, it's the floor and will be covered by carpet!). If it's a bit rough sand then apply another layer of resin, but let it dry at least 24 hours before sanding. 

7. The last step is to get some spray on rubberized undercoating and spray the bottom, then paint the top. If you don't undercoat the bootm the metal could continue to rust. It needs to be sealed off from air -- not just water! Water just holds oxygen molecules closer to the metal. Rust is iron oxide -- a reaction between oxygen and iron. Let the resin dry at least 24 hours before painting. 

You should now have a permanent repair that won't rust again and is at least as strong as the original floor, especially if you encapsulated the screen wire into it. The screen really just keeps the fiberglass from sagging until the resin dries. The fibers are actually stronger. 

On July 6, 2005 Justin Shelton wrote:

> Hey, guys.  I am looking for a place to order fibre
> glass floor repair kits.
> 
> 
> - Justin


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