These should be the sliding calipers. Take them off and clean the slides is all you really need to do. Wire brush them really good while apart and coat the slide areas with anti-seize (NOT plain grease -- it will just collect dirt) and reassemble. That should loosen them right up for a while. The pistons could be sticking as well. Price rebuilt calipers -- they are usually under $30 each with your cores returned. If the boots on the pistons are in good condition (if it has boots -- might be getting my cycle and car calipers crossed!) you can pop the piston (step on brakes slowly while caliper is off) and clean the seal. The seal is a big square o-ring. Somce corrosion builds up behind the seal and makes it tighter. Just clean the seal and seal groove real good. DO NOT use WD-40 or any kind of penetrating oil or carb cleaner. Most contain distillates that will swell the rubber parts. Use brake cleaner only! You can use air pressure to pop the piston also. Don't let the MC go ! dry while doing this! if you do it will need bench bleeding. You will lose most of the brake fluid popping the pistons with the MC, but the good thing is the fluid will be pretty much changed. Brake fluid does get moisture in it over time, and it's recommended that it be changed every other year or so. On May 23, 2005 Todd Tomason wrote: > When the local tire shop fixed a flat yesterday they said the brake caliper > seemed to be grabbing. My first thought was to just replace the caliper, but > now I'm not so sure. We checked both front wheels when got home and both > seem very stiff. You had to grab the tire with both hand to get it to move > at all. Could this be a bad master cylinder instead? Is there anything else > I should be checking? BTW, this is a 78 with front discs and rear drums. > > Thanks, > > > Todd > > > > . ============================================================= Posted by wixList Archiver -- http://www.amxfiles.com/wixlist