That's why I bought the RIDGID tool. I tried a cheap one too. I couldn't get anywhere at all. I was trying to run steel Fuel lines and wanted double flares. Just plain couldn't do it with the cheapy. The RIDGID works great as long as you take your time and make sure everything is square. They also recomend practicing on scrap tubing. Plus they say to use a cut off wheel on a dremel or a Hacksaw and file to cut tubing. It seems that the tubing cutters actually compress the metal and harden it as they cut. This makes it more difficult to double flare! Mark Price mpriceAtwestco.net Morgantown, WV 69 AMC rambler, 4.0L, EFI, 5 speed 65 Ambassador Conv, 327 AUTO, Basketcase 01 S-10 CREWCRAP 4X4 ---------- Original Message ---------------------------------- From: farna@xxxxxxx Reply-To: mail-From-mprice-westco.net@xxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Wed, 04 May 2005 15:43:21 -0400 >I can only add that you DEFINITELY need a good tool to begin with! I don't think the tubing they use now is nearly as hard (or maybe just thick) as the stuff used in the early 60s (come to think of it, thick is probably the answer -- surely technology has advance to the point they can make it thinner now!). I tried using a $35 double flare kit to flare the end of a line in my 63 Classic. Toasted the tool die getting the initial flare!! Maybe with a good tool with hardened steel dies it could be done, but I ended up using a compression fitting to splice a line. I check it occasionally, but it's holding just fine with no seeping/leaking at all (been in there about three years now). > >