Got the @#$%!! engine and trans in the project Hornet today! Some of a beach!
Got my hotrodded 904 Torqueflight back from Westminster Transmissions Friday.
I spent a few hours Saturday making a transmission jack adapter for my little floor jack. Worked out quite nice. A simple piece of 3/4" plywood, with four uprights made from 1" square steel with threaded rod to mate to the four cast ears on the 904. A shallow "V" shape clamp mounted the contraption to the jack. It jacked right up to the motor, and had just enough slop to let me tilt to the right angle. No sweating, swearing, or lifting on my chest :-)
For the first time ever, I did all the right things in the right order. With a good trans jack, I was able to install the torque converter -- all three nice clunks -- and not have it fall off. Though I found I was missing both dowels (block to bell) I was able to make perfect substitutes in a few minutes. I pre-fit the converter and paint-marked for alignment, and rotated it so it would be close after mating engine to trans. I ran a tap through the tapped bosses so the four bolts would go in by and, and lightly oiled the bolts. The trans just jacked into place, lined right up, the nose fit into the crank with only a push from one hand. The two big bolts went in with my fingers. (The three along the top of the bellhousing took all my 3/8" extentions, a swivel and only a moderate amount of swearing.)
I had a big hassle with the cast aluminum valve cover for the 1983 258. It fits the engine just fine, but it's too tall, and clunks into the overlap seam in the Hornet firewall. There is NO WAY to fit a 1980's inline sixes into the 1970 chassis as-is with this valve cover. There's also no way at all to get at the rear screw, tough enough on a pre-1972 factory six installation.
The solution was simple, if extreme-sounding: I took a 3/4" wide, 1/2" high chunk out of the back of the valve cover! I cut a notch in the back to clear the chassis -- valve covers are $100, immaculate rust-free 1970 Hornets irreplacable.
I cut and filed a 3/16" slice of aluminum sheet to block out the cut, mounted with 8-32's, filled with PC-7 epoxy. It even looks OK. Plenty of clearance inside and out.
I don't know why the valve cover is so tall. It's about 1" over the top of the rockers. It's needless.
With this mod, the valve cover fits fine and clears the firewall under all conditions, verified by removing the rear crossmember and jacking and lowering the rear of the trans. The bellhousing hits the chassis before the head hits the firewall.
But, umm, there's no way to get at the bolt at the back of the valve cover -- even with a socket head bolt and a ball-end allen wrench. I finally worked a solution: removing the wiper motor and drilling a 3/8" hole in the floor of the cowl area for the allen wrench.
* unbolt the rear trans mount * jack the trans tail until it hits the chassis * remove the wiper motor * insert allen wrench into hole
Umm, yeah, with all that a 1983 258 "just drops in" to the 1970 Hornet. Well it's in, at least, solidly and cleanly, soon on the road!