Re: Cranking Up The Old 343 Engine

[KSiroonian@xxxxxxx]

Sounds like great advice, similar to what I have been told. 2 years ago the guys in our amc club came over to help me get a pacerX out of hibernation. It was sitting in my dads garage  for 18 years unstarted. we pushed it out, and after a thorough exterior/interior cleaning, and 18 years of (garage) grime, they pulled the plugs, and using an oil squirter pump, put a good amunt of marvel mystery oil in each cylinder, to coat the pistons/rings/cylider area and let it drip down over the next 2 weeks to goat the cylinder. They came back, turned the engine over by hand with a wrench against the crank front pully bolt,  then put the plugs back in, and turned the engine over mechanically without the distributor wire so it woudn't start. Then some gas eye droppered into the carb, and new battery, and igntion solenoid and, voila that baby came to life, like alwasy, albeit spitting out dried dog food pellets/kibble out the t-pipe like a machine gun, firing on one of the ladies of the !
 group. Left in the exhust from some mice years ago when we had the dog. A slight ticking in the engine- lifters?, but she ran pretty good for 18 years sitting. The motor oil became very dirty in a short period of time, even though it was clean beforfe we started. A quick change using the high mileage oils, and the engine ticking went away. Definiltey fill the filter wtih oil and then roll it around the inside element so the filter media absorbs the oil and can pass thorugh quickly on start up. If the oil looks dirty already, probalby not a bad idea to change it right aeven before the intial start up. Its a long process for sure, and not looking forward to doing it again this summer on my other pacer wagon, the javelin, an eagel and an alliance. Most all stored for 5+ years. Let us know of any more tricks to doing this. thanks. regards, ken.

On April 7, 2005 Matt Haas wrote:

> Here's what I'd do:
> 
> - Pull the spark plugs and make sure the engine turns by hand (or with a
> wrench). Don't turn it far since the cylinders will be pretty dry.
> - If it turns, put a few ounces of engine oil in the cylinders and change
> the engine oil and filter if you haven't already. When you put the new
> filter on, put as much oil as you can get in it without spilling to reduce
> the time it takes for they system to prime.
> - Turn the engine over by hand. Make two full revolutions to ensure that
> it's free.
> - If it isn't free, Marvel Mystery Oil may free it up.
> - Drain the cooling system and fill it with fresh coolant. If the guts of
> the radiator are all crusty, I'd just fill it with water for now and plan
> on having the radiator boiled out once you determine the engines condition.
> - Check the condition of the battery cables and that the battery is fully
> charged.
> - Disconnect the fuel hose that goes between the fuel pump and fuel line.
> Make sure to plug the end of the fuel line from the tank so you don't have
> a fuel spill. Fuel systems are somewhat self-siphoning (especially with a
> bunch of gas in them) and you could have a fuel spill.
> - If you have an oil pump priming tool, use that to prime the system.
> You'll know it's primed when oil comes out at the rocker arms. If not,
> crank the engine with the starter until oil pressure is indicated (oil
> light goes off or the gauge shows pressure). Don't crank for more than 30
> seconds at a time and let the starter cool for a few minutes after every 30
> seconds of cranking.
> - Once oil pressure is built up, put in new plugs, service the points, and
> connect the fuel pump to a gas can with a small amount of fuel in it.
> - Pour a few ounces of fuel into the carburetor via the vent tube and work
> the throttle several times until fuel squirts out of the accelerator pump
> jets in the carburetor throat.
> - Remove the air cleaner assembly and plug any vacuum hoses. This keeps you
> from having a fire in the air cleaner if the car backfires.
> 
> At this point, the car should start easily if there is no internal damage
> to the engine. It will smoke for a few moments until the engine oil burns
> out of the cylinders. Stop the engine and install the air cleaner with a
> fresh air filter.
> 
> Before you try and drive it, STOP! You still have a bunch of work to do!
> 
> You absolutely must check the brakes (make sure the engine is running if
> you have power brakes). How does the pedal feel under normal pressure? Is
> it firm? Does it sink slowly to the floor? Is it mushier than a mud pit in
> the Amazon during the rainy season? Once you've pushed the pedal down a few
> times (and shut the engine off) take a looks at the brakes. Are the baking
> plates nice and dry or are they wet with brake fluid? Wet brake parts mean
> that wheel cylinders and/or calipers need rebuilt. If things look good so
> far, get back in the car and step down very hard on the brake pedal several
> times and re-check the brakes for leaks. Once you're okay with the
> hydraulic side, take a look at the mechanical side of the brakes. You want
> to make sure that the springs are intact and that everything moves like
> it's supposed to (you'll need a helper to work the brakes while you check
> each wheel).
> 
> Once you're sure the brakes are good, you should change all remaining
> fluids and then you should be ready to take it for a drive.
> 
> After you get it running, it would be a very good idea to rebuild the
> carburetor and have the gas tank cleaned out. Radiator shops can usually
> clean gas tanks. Expect to pay somewhere around $100 to $150 to have it
> cleaned and sealed. You should also test the fuel level sender at this time
> and replace the fuel strainer and o-ring that goes between the sender and
> the tank. If you haven't had the radiator cleaned out yet, you should take
> it at the same time and have it cleaned and leak tested. You should also
> install a new stock (195 degree) thermostat while you have the radiator out.
> 
> You should also replace all of the hoses (don't forget the fuel hoses back
> by the gas tank) and belts to make sure it's ready to drive.
> 
> Matt
> 
> At 08:58 PM 4/7/2005 +0000, you wrote:
> >You guys out there are the experts.  I want to try to crank up my '67
> >Rebel SST 343 this weekend.  The previous owner says the car has not been
> >started in over 3 years.  Some people say to remove the plugs and squirt
> >some oil in the cylinders before cranking.  Would like your
> >suggestions.  Obviously, I will run my gas line from a clean gas container
> >to bypass the junk that is in the gas tank.  What about the
> >carburetor?  Should I do anything to prep it before firing it up?  I also
> >suspect the fuel pump may not work and will test that.  Appreciate any
> >guidance you can give me.  Thanks.
> >
> >
> >
> >Thanks,
> >Gary Parente - email: grparen@xxxxxxxxxxx
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> 
> mhaas@xxxxxxx
> Cincinnati, OH
> http://www.mattsoldcars.com
> 1967 Rambler American wagon
> 1968 Rambler American sedan
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> 
> 
> 
> .


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