I don't have a clue! The guy that did the exhaust on the car turned me on to it. I tried it and it worked! Mark Price mprice@xxxxxxxxxx Morgantown, WV 69 AMC rambler, 4.0L, EFI, 5 speed 65 Ambassador Conv, 327 AUTO, Basketcase 01 S-10 CREWCRAP 4X4 ---------- Original Message ---------------------------------- From: Ken Ames <ameskg@xxxxxxxxx> Reply-To: mail-From-mprice-westco.net@xxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Wed, 9 Mar 2005 17:46:47 -0700 >One wonders at the thought processes that led to that discovery. :) > >Ken Ames > > >Quoting mail@xxxxxxxxxxxx: > >> Out of antisieze? Liquid Maalox works great! >> I used to use it on my collector bolts. Cheap and easy to come by! >> Mark Price >> mprice@xxxxxxxxxx >> Morgantown, WV >> 69 AMC rambler, 4.0L, EFI, 5 speed >> 65 Ambassador Conv, 327 AUTO, Basketcase >> 01 S-10 CREWCRAP 4X4 >> >> >> >> ---------- Original Message ---------------------------------- >> From: "Gary Walker" <NashFlash@xxxxxxxxxx> >> Reply-To: mail-From-mprice-westco.net@xxxxxxxxxxxx >> Date: Sat, 5 Mar 2005 22:41:17 -0600 >> >> > Sometimes someone breaks one and blames it on them being seized. To >> >help get them loose without breaking them, we need to try to apply the >> >torque in a circle instead of pulling to one side. To accomplish this, >> >use a little 1/4 inch T handle as a Craftsman or Snap on with a short >> >extension and a 1/4 inch X 1/4 drive 6 point socket. Only use a six >> >point socket. When you apply the counterclockwise pressure evenly with the >> >> >T handle, they will come loose. If this is a car which has sat for like >> >> >20 years, then apply some "Knock 'er Loose" and bump the end lightly several >> >> >times over the course of a day or two if it does not let go after first >> >using the T handle with light pressure. I have not broken one yet, and I >> >> >have done many OLD ones. >> > When you reinstall, you can put some anti seize compound ON THE THREADS >> >> >only and that will not get in the fluid. It will be outside of the sealing >> >> >surface of the bleeder. It only takes a very tiny amount on the threads of >> >> >any bolt to take effect. If you do use an anti seize compound, you might >> >consider nickel instead of copper for longevity in this case. >> > Your AMC Friend, >> > Gary Walker, Owner of some old AMC stuff >> > >> >----- Original Message ----- >> >From: "Matt Haas" <mhaas@xxxxxxx> >> >To: <mail@xxxxxxxxxxxx> >> >Sent: Saturday, March 05, 2005 5:04 PM >> >Subject: Suggestions on keeping bleeder screws from seizing up >> > >> > >> >> I'm this close (imagine me holding my index finger and thumb close >> >> together) from fixing the brakes on the 67 American wagon I picked up just >> >> >> before Christmas and I want to avoid a problem I've had with my 68 >> >> American - frozen bleeder screws. The big problem with them (from what I >> >> was told when the last one broke when the master cylinder was being >> >> changed out) is that the screws are only 1/4" so any stubbornness at all >> >> just about guarantees that they'll snap off. Any suggestions on what I can >> >> >> do to them to reduce the likely hood of them seizing on me? I've though of >> >> >> plain on anti-seize compound but I'm not sure how well that reacts with >> >> brake fluid. >> >> >> >> Thanks, >> >> >> >> Matt >> >> >> >> mhaas@xxxxxxx >> >> Cincinnati, OH >> >> http://www.mattsoldcars.com >> >> 1966 Rambler Rebel >> >> 1967 Rambler American wagon >> >> 1968 Rambler American sedan >> >> =============================================================== >> >> According to a February survey of Internet holdouts released by >> >> UCLA's Center for Communication Policy, people cite >> >> not having a computer as the No. 1 reason they won't go online. >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> > > > > > > >