>In the sixties I used a hard crank exclusively. I did not know back then >whether it had been cut or not because it came with the package and I did >not know the difference at the time. How do you know it was "hard" and what numbers did they go to?? No one on the list seems to know this information. What ARE AMC cranks OE hardness numbers ????????????? Just the "facts" please. >As for the question of whether or not to chrome the crank, I say >that if it gets enough oil, the chrome is not necessary and the chrome may >not flex during down time when the crank contracts. I have a "Hard Chrome" (mains only) 390 crank and would like to get it off of there. It was that way when I bought the engine. The chromer didn't do a very good job. The journals vary in diameter due to the thickness of the chrome and it's showing very small cracks around the oil holes. It has been run that way and worked but I don't like it. It's already .010-,020 so I have to be careful what decisions I make now as there aren't to many grinds left. It's for a spare motor I'm putting together so I'm in no rush to deal with it right away. Proper bore alignment, bearing fit, journal size, and oil clearance are ALL more important than ANY finish. Get THOSE things right first. THE BIGGEST PROBLEM I SEE AS AN ENGINE BUILDER IS CUSTOMERS IGNORING BASIC ENGINE BUILDING PRINCABLES !!!!!. All the "trick" crank treatments in the world can't save you if your clearance is wrong!! CHECK EVERYTHING,,, then check it again... But hey,,, that's just me! Bruce Hevner